Wednesdays hold a special place in university drinking lore. From Edinburgh to Exeter, in student towns across the country, vast sections of Wetherspoons, Yates's and Revolutions are cordoned off. Student unions go into lockdown. All in preparation for the descent of the sports teams. This is the night they go out on the proverbial, to get leathered, trolleyed, battered – whichever they so wish. Can't wait for the weekend? No bother. Tag along with the ski team from lunch onwards. Fancy dress optional.
Mungo's bar at Kent University on the last Wednesday of last term is a case in point. It conforms to an aesthetic shared by student unions, cheap casinos and ferry bars: laminate flooring and swirling carpet; curved-back plastic chairs and Ikea-modernist tables. Purple and green neon strip bulbs run the length of the bar and beam from recesses in the ceiling. "Mary's Boy Child" by Boney M blares from a speaker. A few members of the rugby team huddle at the bar in festive attire. A young man in an elf onesie holds court. Another, with the stocky physique of a prop, pulls at a too-tight green woolen jumper. Atop his head sits a Christmas pudding hat. A third, broad-shouldered youth, looks anxiously around the bar. He is wearing, somewhat inexplicably, a red and black lace night-dress and a Santa hat.
On the other side of the room, against the back wall, sit Lauren Seward, Chris Raper – both 19 – Tom Barrass, 22, and Ross Bishop, 18. The table before them is conspicuously bare. All four are members of Are You Not Drinking Much?, one of a handful of societies to have sprung up on university campuses in recent years to offer alternatives to booze-sodden socialising.
While the elf and his pals are making all the noise this evening, the big drinkers' days at the SU could be numbered. According to a report last year from the Office for National Statistics, Britain's young people are turning away from alcohol in droves. The proportion of 16-24-year-olds who do not drink increased by more than 40 per cent between 2005 and 2013. Today, one in five is teetotal. Binge drinking has fallen by more than a third and just one in 50 young adults describe themselves as a frequent drinker. Across the country, nightclubs and pubs are closing at a staggering rate.
Food and drink news
Food and drink news
1/27 Food School
Kids celebrate Food School graduation with James Martin – a campaign launched by Asda to educate young people on where food comes from. New research has revealed that children across the UK just aren’t stepping up to the plate when it comes to simple facts about the food they eat – with almost half of children under eight not knowing that eggs come from chickens
2/27 ‘Do-It-Yourself’ restaurant
To encourage more people to cook and eat together, IKEA has launched The Dining Club in Shoreditch – a fully immersive ‘Do-It-Yourself’ restaurant – which will open its doors from 10 - 25 September 2016. Members of the public can book to host a brunch, lunch or dinner party for up to 20 friends and family. Supported by their very own sous chef and maître de, the host and their guests will orchestrate an intimate dining experience where cooking together is celebrated and eating together is inspirational
Mikael Buck / IKEA
3/27 Ping Pong menu with a twist
Gatwick Airport has teamed up with London dim sum restaurant Ping Pong to create a limited edition menu with a distinctly British twist; including a Full English Bao and Beef Wellington Puff, to celebrate the launch of the airport’s new route to Hong Kong
4/27 Food photography masterclass
To celebrate the 2016 Sony World Photography Awards, photographers share tips on how to create an award winning food photography using the full-frame, palm-sized interchangeable lens Sony α7R II camera. A series of stunning food photography images capture the exquisite, mouth-watering detail of the dinner table close up. Tapping into the growing trend of food photography, renowned food photographer Hugh Johnson has shared his step-by-step guide to capturing incredible gastronomic imagery. Winning and shortlisted photographers will be exhibited at Somerset House from 22 April – 8 May
5/27 Zizzi unveil the Ma’amgharita
Unique pizza art has been created by Zizzi in celebration of the Queen’s 90th birthday. The pizza features the queen in an iconic pose illustrated with fresh and tasty Italian ingredients on a backdrop of the Union Jack
6/27 Blue potatoes make a comeback
Blue potatoes, once a staple part of British potato crops, are back on the menu thanks to a Cambridge scientist turned-organic farmer and Farmdrop, an online marketplace that lets people buy direct from local farms. Cambridge PhD graduate-turned farmer, Adrian Izzard has used traditional growing techniques at Wild Country Organics to produce the colourful spuds, packed with healthy cell-protecting anthocyanin, which had previously disappeared from UK plates when post-war farmers were pushed towards higher-yielding varieties
7/27 France plans to usurp Scotland as the home of the world's best whisky
France is planning to usurp Scotland’s reputation as the home of the world’s best whisky, fired by a growing national obsession with the drink. According to a study by retail consultants Bonial, the French drink more whisky than any other country – an average of 2.15 litres a year, compared to 1.8 litres in second-placed Uruguay and the US in third on 1.4 litres
Bloomberg via Getty Images
8/27 Chocolate-filled extravaganza
The London Contemporary Orchestra prepares for one of a kind performance in iconic St Luke’s in Old Street. After unique collaboration with Cadbury Dairy Milk they've produced an incredible multi-sensory live event, which will go ahead on 23 February, pairing the sound music with the taste of chocolate (the event is free to the public!)
¬© Jane Stockdale, ¬© Jane S
9/27 Creme Egg Cafe in London
The Cadbury Creme Egg cafe has opened on Greek Street in Soho, London and it welcomes everyone on the weekends, until 6 March 2016. The menu offers most delicious creme egg toasties and cakes and you may want to jump in to the ball pool for some more fun (available for children and adults!)
Cadbury Creme Egg / Joel Anderso
10/27 Cronut inventor Dominique Ansel to open first bakery in London
The inventor of the Cronut – a croissant and doughnut hybrid – is set to launch his first bakery in London. Dominique Ansel announced that his eponymous bakery will open at some point in 2016 on Instagram by posting an image of one of his famous pastries decorated with a Union Jack flag. The chef said he was “thrilled” about his new venture
11/27 Eating cereal may not be the healthiest way to start the day
The old saying goes that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, so many of us do as we are told and grab a bowl of cereal before we head out the door. But an expert has warned that while many cereals boxes claim their contents are the perfect start to the day, many are packed full of sugar and carbohydrates with little nutritional value. Even some seemingly-health muesli cereals have a lot of added sugar in the form of honey, malt, molasses, dried fruit or “even fruit juice”
12/27 Alton Towers Resort launches the UK’s first Rollercoaster Restaurant
For guests seeking a dining experience with a twist, Alton Towers Resort launches the UK’s first Rollercoaster Restaurant, brand new and opening in May 2016. The new restaurant is set below a vast rollercoaster track where diners can watch as their order tackles two gravity defying loop-the-loops before dropping 8m/26ft down the tornado spiral to their table. To ensure that the menu is up to the challenge, each of the dishes will be put through its paces at the Resort’s extensive test centre to guarantee that each one can withstand the force
13/27 'Heat map' shows which areas of Britain enjoy the spiciest curries
After Bradford was named the Curry Capital of Britain for the fifth year running, a map has been released showing which regions of Britain enjoy a spicy curry and which prefer the milder variants. According to the map developed by Hari Ghotra, Kent, Essex, West Yorkshire and Lancashire are the heat-handling kings of Britain, while Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales all prefer milder curries. The data was collected by monitoring the location of social media posts that mentioned names of curries. These were then given a spice rating and were then collated to give each area a score out of 1000
14/27 Peckham-based business develops 'first hangover-preventing meat'
Victorians threw cold water over themselves, Native Americans licked their own sweat and Ancient Egyptians would cast spells on their beer. These days, the office barfly is more likely to be seen sipping an Alka-Seltzer the day after the night before. But the hangover-treatment industry is now reported to be worth billions, so it’s no wonder everyone from big pharma to quirky hipster start-ups are inventing new and enticing ways to cash in on the painful headaches and slumps in productivity – starting by preventing hangovers in the first place. One of the latest miracle cures to hit the shelves in 2015 is salami. Serious Pig, a Peckham-based craft meat business, has developed what it calls “the world’s first hangover- preventing meat treat”
15/27 French cheese under threat from mass production and ‘bacteriological correctness’
Search where you will in the most exclusive cheese shops in France and you will no longer find a bleu de Termignon, a vacherin d’Abondance or a galette des Monts-d’Or. They are among 50 species of French cheese to have vanished in the past four decades. The survival of French cheese made in the traditional manner with lait cru or raw, unpasteurised milk, is threatened by the “bacteriological correctness” of European and national food safety regulation
16/27 Non-alcoholic cocktails are seriously chic
We are living through a new era of creative, non-alcoholic drinks that go way beyond a coke or sweet mocktail. The world is becoming more health conscious. There's the war on sugar, and teetotalism is on the rise, with more than one in five not drinking at all (especially young adults), according to The National Statistics for Adult Drinking Habits. This abstinence is even more pronounced in London, with almost one in three turning away from alcohol. An increasing number of mixologists are applying their talents to the creation of non-alcoholic drinks that taste as good as their boozy alternatives
17/27 Japanese whisky crisis
Suntory’s chief blender Mr. Fukuyo San blends component whiskies to create Suntory Yamazaki Distiller’s Reserve, a blend of young and old single malts. Japan’s warm climate and varied seasons makes it perfect environment to age and blend whiskies, creating subtle, refined and complex expressions.The recent trend for Japanese whisky has put the spirit on the verge of a global shortage
18/27 Crisps made with real ingredients
Michelin starred chef, Simon Rogan in action cooking a menu inspired by the provenance ingredients in the new Chef’s Signature range from Kettle Chips. Kettle Chips, the nation’s favourite premium crisp brand, has launched the new range of crisps with exciting new seasonings, made with the highest quality food ingredients rather than chemicals or artificial flavours
19/27 The price of an avocado is set to rise
Britain’s avocado coulovers are facing a significant increase in the cost of their favourite salad food because the so-called superfood is becoming too popular. High demand from health-conscious consumers has led Peru to triple its avocado exports since 2010, with exports to the UK up 58% over the past year
20/27 Burger King to sell alcohol in the UK
Burger King could become the first fast food chain to sell alcohol in its UK restaurants. The popular eatery plans to sell American beers in plastic bottles from this month onwards. The beverages are only to be consumed on restaurant premises
21/27 Guinness to become vegan-friendly
Guinness is set to become vegan friendly for the first time in its 256-year history, as the company announced its plan to stop using fish bladders in its filters
22/27 Why the salmon on your plate might not actually be salmon
Salmon that ends up on the dinner table may not be salmon at all, a study has suggested. The problem of salmon mislabelling has become an increasing issue in the US in the winter months, according to American research published by Oceana. The findings show that 43 per cent of the salmon tested was mislabelled – the most common instance of this being when farmed Atlantic salmon was sold as wild salmon
23/27 McDonald's launches 'premium' burger range
Fast-food chain McDonald’s is throwing its hat into the UK’s gourmet burger ring after launching its Signature Collection. The premium burgers, which feature the restaurant's thickest ever beef patty made from 100 per cent British and Irish beef, were made available in 28 restaurants in London and the South
24/27 Additives in popular chicken nuggets
Ingredients, a new book co-created by photographer Dwight Eschliman and food writer Steve Ettlinger distils 25 products, including popcorn, Red Bull and chicken soup, focusing on 75 of the most common food additives and revealing what each one looks like, where it comes from and why it is used. McDonald’s chicken nuggets were found to contain 40 different ingredients. These included dextrose, a sugar also used by shoe makers to make leather more pliable, and corn starch, used for thickening food as well as also being a substitute for petrol
25/27 New Zealanders are behind a lot of the interesting food and drink stuff happening in the UK
Dark beers are more suited to cold months, so the thinking goes, but in one part of the world they're always popular. "Lots of breweries in New Zealand have got stouts and porters among their best sellers," says Stu McKinlay, one half of the duo behind Wellington brewing company Yeastie Boys. McKinlay recently swapped Wellington for west Kent in order to launch Yeastie Boys in the UK, and he's joined forces with four other breweries (8 Wired, Renaissance, Three Boys, Tuatara) as part of the New Zealand Craft Beer Collective, to promote his country's finest over here
26/27 How dangerous is a bacon sandwich
A recent WHO report warning that processed and red meats can cause cancer may have left you thinking a little harder about whether to pick up that bacon butty for breakfast or ditch a beef-filled Bolognese for dinner - but how worried should we be? The review of 800 studies for the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) prompted global health experts to cast processed meats - including bacon, ham and sausages - into the ominous-sounding list of group 1 carcinogens, where they joined formaldehyde, gamma radiation and cigarettes. Eating just a 50g portion of processed meat – or two rashers of bacon - a day increases the risk of bowel cancer by 18 per cent, the experts concluded
27/27 Best UK fish and chip shops revealed in ‘Oscars’ of fish-frying industry
Devon, Norfolk, Yorkshire and Somerset offer the best fish and chips in the UK, according to the 2016 National Fish and Chip Awards. Selected from a shortlist of 10 semi-finalists, Hanbury’s Famous Fish and Chips in Babbacombe, Devon; No 1 Cromer in Cromer, Norfolk; Papa’s Fish and Chips in Willerby, East Yorkshire; The Scallop Shell in Bath, Somerset; and Trenchers Restaurant in Whitby, North Yorkshire have been declared the best restaurants serving the traditional English dish
The effect is being felt nowhere more than on Britain's university campuses. At Kent University, one of five campus bars closed last year due to lack of custom. A new hall of residence opened with a teetotal restaurant in place of a bar. Following the lead of St Andrews, many universities now offer alcohol-free accommodation. Richard Brooks, 23, vice-president of the NUS and chair of the services board purchasing consortium, says wet sales at student union bars have dived in the last 10-15 years. "Students want more than just clubs and bars," he says, adding that current growth areas are coffee shops and more adventurous eating options.
There has been a proliferation in niche non-sporting societies (Quidditch societies are remarkably popular across the country) in which alcohol plays only a minor role. Others report a nascent green juice and Crossfit culture emerging on campuses – more Bikram than Bullingdon. One reason for the shift is the increase in students from Muslim and other non-imbibing backgrounds. But sociologists say this only accounts for part of the change.
In reality, a number of factors – less disposable income, a reaction to the overindulgence of the previous generation, the prominence of social media – have apparently converged to call time at the bar for Britain's young people. So has the country really got over its drinking problem? Is a new liberal utopia emerging, defined by a pick'n'mix attitude to lifestyle choices? And is this entirely a good thing?
A straightforward answer to the question "When did the party end and who switched on the lights?" would be 2008, and George Osborne. The theory goes that the fulcrum on which the balance tipped away from heavy drinking was the decimal place on the bank statements of Britain's students. For generation austerity, university is no jolly. Those beginning higher education since top-up fees hit £9,000-a-year spent a great deal longer doing the sums than did their predecessors.
To justify the expenditure, cost-benefit ratio must be optimised. With uncertain youth employment prospects, pay stagnating and old industries crumbling, the future looks precarious. The problem is exacerbated by rising alcohol duty. Over the past decade, the UK has surged forward to become the EU country with the second most expensive alcohol, after Ireland. For Britain's students, alcohol (and hangovers) have become an unaffordable luxury.
"I was talking to my dad and he said people used to be down the pub every night," says Bishop. "Now, it's just not like that. Maybe once a week, or twice at a push. But it's too expensive. And I didn't come to university for the social experience. First and foremost, I came to get a degree."
History supports this argument. Dips in alcohol consumption traditionally follow recessions. Similarly, says Dr James Nicholls, director of research and policy development at Alcohol Research UK, children of hedonistic generations often turn away from alcohol.
"People just don't want to look like their parents. It happened in the 1930s, it happened in the 1980s and it's possibly happening again now."
It is only a decade since the introduction of 24-hour drinking sparked moral outrage. This peaked between the passing of the Licensing Act 2003 and its coming into effect two years later. Sections of the media launched a campaign against the new tolerant stance. City centres were declared war zones, and this the final decree. One picture, from 2005, came to crystallise the nation's concerns. A girl lies on her back on a bench in Bristol city centre, inebriated. Neon lights flicker off a wet pavement which is littered with empty glass bottles.
Before Britain was broken, it was drunk – as drunk as bench girl. This campaign, says Nicholls, coincided with new government messaging with Labour's 2004 harm reduction strategy. Looking back, it seems that the campaign, now Drink Aware, helped to successfully recast public thinking of over-consumption from the hallmark of a good night out to a health risk and a social problem.
Bench girl has left her impression on the members of Are You Not Drinking Much?. "If I go out on the street at 11pm on a Friday or Saturday, some of the things you see, it's like, 'where's the dignity?'" says Bishop. "You don't get that in other countries. This mad, disorderly approach to getting drunk. I've seen stuff that just makes me go 'I don't want to be part of that'."
On a rainy Tuesday in December, Redemption offers warm sanctuary. The bar, decked out in green velvet banquettes and tilted mirrors, fits snugly into its Notting Hill environs. The design, says co-founder Catherine Salway, 42, is "Brooklyn- and Berlin-inspired". Exposed lightbulbs hang from the concrete ceiling. Tea lights sit on ethically-sourced marble tables. The focal point of the room is a monolithic concrete bar, painted gold and topped with a spruce of eucalyptus in an extravagant glass vase.
I meet Salway and Grace Beverley here. Despite being only 18, Beverley has over 35,000 Instagram followers, a website and two ebooks to her name. Her brand @gracefituk promotes a certain kind of healthy living, centred around exercise and "eating clean". What you might call an overachiever, when not a lifestyle guru, she is completing a year-long internship at a major tech company while waiting to hear from Oxford University whether she has been accepted to study Music.
Redemption is a fitting setting. Built around a "super-clean" concept, all drinks are alcohol-free, while all dishes are meat-, sugar-, wheat- and dairy-free. Not that you would necessarily know it. While the on-point interior design makes it feels like any other contemporary restaurant, the menu does not advertise its virtues. "I used to work with charities," explains Salway. "And I quickly learned that if you want people to do the right thing, you don't tell them to do the right thing. You make the right thing the cool and sexy thing to do."
Salway set up after a career in marketing for a major international corporation. The bar is just about to open its second branch in London's hipster mecca of Shoreditch. Built on the ethos of "spoil yourself without spoiling yourself", Salway says her clientele is bound by a concern with good body maintenance – often of the restorative nature. January is Redemption's busiest month. The bar's success is down to the non-judgemental way it approaches its remit. "None of us who work here are teetotal," she adds. "And it's not like we're called Whole Earth Living Dot Com".
Over a round of beet-o-tinis – beetroot juice, carrot juice, coconut water and a dash of lime – Beverley describes a personal approach to alcohol that is equally laid-back. "I'm much more likely to be seen at the gym than drinking. But then I will drink sometimes."
She uses her gym membership to good effect. Alongside pictures baked eggs and green juices, she also uses Instagram to show off the gains of her gym sessions. "I know those pictures appeal to some people," she says frankly. Beverley is also not averse to the occasional "cheat day" on which she will post a picture of a bacon double cheeseburger or chocolate fudge cake.
Recent years have seen the rise of the "clean eating" movement. To the uninitiated, proponents may seem to be emulating a diet somewhere between that of a monk and a rabbit. One should be "mindful" of what one eats. Red meat, sugar, wheat and processed foods are to be be avoided. Whole foods take centre stage. Salmon with quinoa and kale or grilled chicken with bulghur wheat and broccoli salad get a thumbs-up. Excess, meanwhile, is frowned upon. Gwyneth Paltrow, Katy Perry, Miranda Kerr and a number of female celebrities played a part in helping to arguably make it the diet trend of last year. The Hemsley sisters' The Art of Eating Well and Ella Woodward's Deliciously Ella, both bibles of the movement, have sold wildly well. Both originated as blogs.
The web has been crucial to the rise of the "clean eating" movement. Buckwheat salad and green juice pop with colour > through a Hefe or Sierra filter. This is food porn but of the wholesome kind.
The relationship shows how much social media shapes young people's attitudes to themselves. The body is now a temple that must be kept in tip-top condition at all times. Who knows when it might be papped, snapped and shared with the world? And the record of what you put in is just as important as how it looks. We are now, more than ever, what we eat – and drink.
The effect on alcohol consumption by young people is manifold, says Dr Richard de Visser of Sussex University 's Centre of Innovation and Research in Childhood and Youth. They are more fearful of losing control, concerned that pictures of any misdemeanours may be posted online the next morning. To the same end, socialising online diminishes the need for alcohol as a social lubricant.
"Socialising is not as relaxing as it once was," says De Visser. "There's that constant sense of a need to be in contact with people and of people seeing what you're saying to other people. It is all a lot more tense."
Along with the uncertainties of modern life, this may go some way to explain why Generation Y has higher levels of stress, depression and anxiety than any before. The dark side of the "clean eating" movement is orthorexia – an eating disorder characterised by an obsession with eating only "correct" food. "There was definitely more of a free-wheeling atmosphere 15 or 20 years ago," says Nicholls. "Life's harder for young people now, quite simply."
In a way you could pity young people, who feel they are victims of constant scrutiny, that they have been robbed of the carefree luxury of unconditional anonymity. But Beverley's approach to alcohol and healthy living reflects an in-control take-it-or-leave-it mentality. "I would describe my approach as more being not into labelling," she says. "Although I don't eat that much meat, I'm not a vegetarian. I also don't have that much dairy, but if I want some, I'll have some. That's what works for me. I don't find there's this need to be like 'I'm this, I'm this, I'm this', because that cuts you off from certain things. It makes it less enjoyable."
The same attitude is on show at Kent University. The four members of Are You Not Drinking Much? I meet have differing approaches to alcohol consumption. Seward "doesn't drink at all – I've never found an alcohol I like". Raper "drinks socially, but I don't go clubbing". Barass, the society president, "will go on nights out but I also enjoy doing other things". Bishop "doesn't drink at all, I never have". It's a flexible approach reflected in the society's ethos – alcohol is by no means banned at socials, it's just not the focus. In short, Generation Y sees no problem in having your drink and drinking it.
While such inconsistencies may previously have provoked suggestions of hypocrisy, De Visser says there is far more cultural acceptance of such fluid stances. "There's much greater awareness and acceptance of people not fitting into standard categories of 'you eat meat', 'you drink alcohol', 'you do these things'. It's a thing of 'I'm not going to call myself whatever because then I have to live up to it'. People don't say 'I am a teetotaller', 'I am a non-drinker', even if they don't drink – because of what will be imposed on them."
So are the alcohol companies quaking in their boots? No, is the likely answer. A report from The Nuffield Trust, out just before Christmas, indicated that bingeing Britain is still alive and well. Hospital visits for alcohol poisoning doubled over the last six years – with the highest rates among females in their late teens.
Beverley and the Kent teetotallers are under no illusion that their lifestyles are typical. "The vast majority of my friends still go out and drink, it's very much the norm," says Beverley. Meanwhile Barrass speculates that the closure of licensed premises does not reflect a move away from alcohol, more a move indoors. In his three years at university, he says he has seen a notable increase in the culture of drinking shop-bought booze in halls of residence, rather than going out.
Nicholls hesitates to call time on excessive drinking among young Brits. The drinks companies have used their vast wealth to see off existential threats before. In the 1990s, they employed the best marketers to turn young people back on to drink after ecstasy-fuelled rave culture. This saw the birth of psychedelically coloured alcopops. More recently, their lawyers successfully saw off minimum unit-pricing legislation.
But Diageo and the like are – in the social, economic and technological upheaval of late – losing their grip on this lucrative demographic in one way. "Young people drinking less is just one part of the story," says De Visser. "There are still a lot of young people who are drinking heavily. What has happened is that a lot of people who were moderate drinkers in the past are maybe now more comfortable becoming non-drinkers."
Back at Mungo's, it's 7pm. As the members of Are You Not Drinking Much? shuffle off back to their studies, the elf, his mistress and their pudding lurch through a door into a side room. A sheet of A4 on it reads: "Reserved for the men's rugby club". Watching the two groups go their separate ways, a timeworn phrase comes to mind. Everything in moderation. Including, of course, moderation.
- More about:
- Kent University
- Dr Richard de Visser
- Dr James Nicholls
- Oscar Quine
- Alcohol Research UK
- George Osborne
- St Andrews
- Gwyneth Paltrow
- Oxford University
- Sussex University