Great British Menu’s Liam Dillon: ‘I wish my nan could see my restaurant’

Transforming a run-down pub in Lichfield into an award-winning foodie destination is no easy feat. But, Liam Dillon tells Keely Doll, he’s used to championing his hometown

Dillon is as focused on his family as he is on his food (Liam Dillon)

You may recognise him from the most recent season of Great British Menu, but there’s a lot more to Lichfield chef Liam Dillon. He represented his hometown and region on the programme, focusing on changing the dining landscape of Lichfield. He converted The Boat Inn into a three AA Rosette-winning restaurant, with the help of his father.

Family and food have always been a big part of Dillon’s life, starting with his grandmother’s home cooking. He’s brought that same passion into his own kitchen, merging The Boat Inn’s long history with his own vision.

Although busy with his restaurant, Dillon also brought his culinary expertise to Birmingham in a series of pop-ups at Harvey Nichols Brasserie, which featured a six-course tasting menu including some of his Great British Menu classics.

We sat down with him to see what else he’s got planned.

What was the hardest part about converting The Boat Inn?

The hardest part over the years was changing the food offering without upsetting people. I wanted to push the food as fast as I could but for Lichfield that was a hard task. I’ve upset people along the way with changing what the Boat offered.

You’ve taken a lot of inspiration from your grandmother – what is it like working in your hometown with your family now?

My family know how much I’ve put into the Boat and they are doing the same. My mum looks after the designs and the interior and my dad is always on hand to build and repair. It’s great working with the family as we all have our jobs. I’m sure once all the bits and bobs that we need to get finished are done my parents will take a well earned break. I wish my nan could see the Boat and how we have made it into what it is now.

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Did being a restaurant owner during the pandemic change the way you see the industry?

I’m very concerned for the industry. My opinion of the industry hasn’t changed, it’s hard work. It’s simple, if you don’t love what you do then it’s a tough job. I tried to keep my team occupied during the closures. Myself and my father were working 9-5 on the land every day. We helped each other stay positive and motivated throughout the lockdowns. One by one the kitchen team joined us to keep active.

It was a first for everyone so no one really knew what to do but, for me, I had to stay motivated to help the team get through it.

Some pushed back and others jumped at the chance to keep busy in body and mind.

What’s a favourite meal of yours you wish more people would try?

I love offal and some are a bit scared of it. It should be embraced as we want to use everything we can from the animals we kill to eat.

What meal most reminds you of your childhood or family?

I think “one pot wonders”. Stews or braises are the things that I most remember. My nan used to make a mean stew – I’d sneak to the fridge and pick out the meat.

Well done for achieving three AA Rosettes. What’s your next goal?

I was over the moon when we got the third rosette. It took some time before AA came to the Boat and I thought I’d never get one! I put everything into this business – so as long as we are getting better and better I’m happy.

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What inspired you to do the weekly pop-ups at Harvey Nichols in Birmingham this June?

Birmingham is great and there are so many wicked restaurants. I was asked to do a pop-up and I jumped at it. The mailbox is a class space and to be fair, not too far from Lichfield.

When you aren’t cooking, what are you most likely doing?

At the moment when I’m not in the kitchen I’m working on the business. Before Covid, I managed to get to a few football games so hopefully I can start doing that again soon!

How did you feel representing your hometown and region in the most recent season of Great British Menu?

It was amazing to be in that kitchen after watching it on TV through my career. To have opened a restaurant where I grew up and to then represent it… a dream come true!