Whisky: Wartime nip on sale for £23,000

Contents of barrel from 1940 amongst one of the oldest and most expensive Scotch whiskies ever to be offered for sale

When John Urquhart gave the instructions for Cask 339 to be filled with raw single malt whisky at the Glenlivet Distillery in February 1940, he had good reason to consider the spirit as precious.

A month earlier, as the phony war of 1939 began to translate into the grim realities of events such as Dunkirk, the British government had begun rationing with  malt whisky production slashed by a third.

For three years during Second World War, whisky production at Glenlivet ceased altogether and Cask 339 was largely forgotten.

But amid the chaos of war, it is unlikely that, some 70 years later, Mr Urquhart would have dreamt of just how precious the liquid he was laying down would eventually become.

The contents of the barrel yesterday became among the oldest and most expensive Scotch whiskies to be offered for sale when the final 100 bottles of the single malt were unveiled at Vancouver airport in Canada with a £23,000 price tag a bottle.

The Glenlivet 70-Year-Old, which comes complete with a handblown crystal decanter and sterling silver stopper, is the latest in a line of ultra-rare and hyper-pricey whiskies being put on the market as Scotch defies the economic stagnation.

A bottle of Dalmore 62 single malt sold for a world record £125,000 at Singapore Airport last year, making the decision to target Vancouver – a major hub for flights between North America and South East Asia – not quite so outlandish as it might seem.

David Urquhart, the grandson of the John Urquhart who laid down Cask 339 and is now masterminding the marketing of the Glenlivet as head of the Gordon & MacPhail family company, said: “Our family has passed its knowledge and expertise of Scotch whisky from generation to generation. The Glenlivet 70 Year Old is an exceptional single malt. We’re proud to be able to share this with the rest of the world.”

At a price.

But the pitching of the Glenlivet 70-Year-Old as a tipple of choice for billionaires and plutocrats is just the high profile manifestation of a shift in global whisky tastes which is seeing demand for single malts – regarded as the connoisseur’s Scotch – rocket worldwide.

Exports of single malts grew from £576.7m in 2010 to £744.6m last year - a 29 per cent increase which outstripped the rate of growth of all Scotch exports, including blended whisky. In total Scotch worth £4.2bn was sent abroad last year – a 23 per cent rise, with Brazil becoming the fastest growing market, followed by Singapore and Taiwan.

Single malt still only accounts for 18 per cent of all exports. But the kudos surrounding names such as Laphroaig, Macallan, Glenfiddich and Auchentoshan means that as markets mature and young professionals in emerging economies who once drank blended whiskies develop a taste for more refined Scotch, demand for niche brands is going to rise steeply.

That, at least, is what growing numbers of distillers in an industry which has grown exports for seven consecutive years are hoping as they invest heavily in their single malt products.
Rosemary Gallagher, of the Scotch Whisky Association, said: “Demand for both blended Scotch and single malts is increasing from mature markets and young, affluent consumers in emerging economies. While blended Scotch still forms the vast majority of exports, as consumers become more knowledgeable about Scotch, single malts are also growing in popularity.”

Morrisons Bowmore, the Japanese-owned distiller whose brands include Bowmore and Auchentoshan, this summer announced an 86 per cent leap in pre-tax profits driven by sales of its single malts and increased its stocks of the whiskies by nearly £6m.

Arran Distillery, a relative newcomer to the premium whisky market after it opened for business 16 years ago, is increasing its production of its single malt by 15 per cent this year to 400,000 litres in the expectation of burgeoning demand in Asia and Latin America by the time the spirit matures in a decade.

Managing director Euan Mitchell said: “We’re thinking long-term and are laying down extra stock now to ensure we can capitalise on the increased demand for single malts ten years down the line.”

Such bold expansion has led to some industry observers raising the spectre of the last time Scotch producers dramatically increased production in the 1970s by around 200 million litres and economic factors such as the oil crisis and the collapse of the Japanese economy led to a slump and the closure of distilleries.

But, with around £2bn of investment being pumped into the Scotch industry, producers are confident there will be no repeat of this scenario because of the economic awakening of future whisky connoisseurs in places from Nairobi to Bogota.

Diageo, the market leader whose sales have increased by 50 per cent in the last five years to £3bn, announced this summer that it is investing £1bn in the next five years to increased whisky production by up to 40 per cent.

Paul Walsh, the company’s chief executive, said: “Over the next 15 to 20 years there will be two billion new consumers coming into legal drinking age who have the economic wherewithal to access brands such as Johnnie Walker. If the extrapolations are correct, what we are putting in place will not be enough to supply the new consumers in 20 years’ time anyway.”

Quite whether this new wave of malt lovers will have the wherewithal to spend £23,000 on the wartime water of life that went on sale in Vancouver Airport’s duty free aisles this week remains to be seen.

But it seems a truth spotted by Winston Churchill during the Second World War remains current.

In April 1945, as production of whisky restarted, Churchill wrote: “On no account reduce the barley for whisky. This takes years to mature and is an invaluable export and dollar producer.”

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
News in pictures
World news in pictures
Life & Style blogs

It’s National Work From Home Day today

Plus live in a folly tower and Towcester growth

Where have property prices been reduced most in the UK?

Plus how much you need to earn to rent in London, and new homes figures

Is Rushcliffe the best place for families to live?

Plus where The Apprentices live, house price growth outside London, and househunter numbers

       

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Food Technology Teacher

    £26400 - £36000 per annum: Randstad Education Maidstone: An Independant school...

    Travel Consultant - Career In The Travel Industry!! Full Training Provided!!

    £22k-£25k + comm + benefits: Blue Travel Solutions: LOOKING FOR A CAREER IN TH...

    Caribbean Specialists !! Excellent Salary!!!

    £26k-£29k + excellent comm: Blue Travel Solutions: We have a high-end luxury t...

    Travel Agent

    £23000 - £27000 per annum + (£15K + Uncapped Commission & Benefits): Flight Ce...

    Day In a Page

    The price of pacifism: Refusing to go to war is finally being recognised as a brave act

    The price of pacifism

    From the Second World War refusenik to the 19-year-old Israeli, Holly Williams talks to five people who risked shame and suffering to take a stand as conscientious objector.
    'It was mass hysteria': Jason Isaacs on groupies, theatre bores and snogging James Bond

    Jason Isaacs: Groupies, theatre bores and James Bond

    To millions, Jason Isaacs is one of Harry Potter's arch enemies – but his wife prefers him as a Scottish TV detective.
    Notes from a small island: Is Sealand an independent 'micronation' or an illegal fortress?

    Sealand: 'Micronation' or illegal fortress?

    Thomas Hodgkinson spent a week at the tiny platform off the Suffolk coast to find out.
    Not a bad bone: Mark Hix cooks with cutlets and ribs

    Mark Hix cooks with cutlets and ribs

    If you ignore cutlets and ribs, you'll risk missing out on some delicious and easy meals, says our chef.
    The experts' guide to summer: From getting fit for the beach to recreating that Olympic buzz

    The experts' guide to summer

    From getting fit for the beach to recreating that Olympic buzz
    Sex, drugs and fast cars: The legend of James Hunt has set Hollywood hearts racing

    Legend of James Hunt has set Hollywood hearts racing

    Early glimpses of Ron Howard's film Rush suggest it will portray Hunt as a high-living lothario, with an insatiable appetite for partying.
    Macklemore: 'I don't have moderation when using drugs and alcohol. It was hurting my life'

    Macklemore: 'I don't have moderation'

    The next Vanilla Ice or the next Eminem? Macklemore doesn't have a record contract – but he does have the UK's biggest-selling single of the year.
    Don't be shy: Bill Granger's Sri Lankan recipes

    Don't be shy: Bill Granger's Sri Lankan recipes

    Sri Lankan cuisine is light, sunny, wonderfully spiced – and so easy to cook from scratch. Just as soon as you've broken into the coconut, that is.
    Sir James Dyson’s latest project: Cleaning up hospitals

    Sir James Dyson’s latest project: Cleaning up hospitals

    Doctors are hailing the revamp of a Bath neonatal unit, where babies sleep more and feed better, as the model for patient care
    One man returns to Argentina's town that drowned

    One man returns to Argentina's town that drowned

    Epecuen was submerged under 10 metres of water in 1985. Now the floods have gone – and 83-year-old Pablo Novak has moved back in
    The real thing? Historian publishes Coca Cola's 'secret formula'

    The real thing?

    Historian publishes Coca Cola's 'secret formula'
    Gordon Ramsey's worst nightmare: A restaurant he cannot save

    Gordon Ramsay's worst nightmare: A restaurant he cannot save

    The pugnacious chef finally met a shambolic restaurant he couldn't save. John Walsh on when TV makover refuseniks fight back
    Join Ryanair! See the world! But we're only paying you for nine months a year

    Join Ryanair! See the world! But we're only paying you for nine months a year

    Glamorous myth of the flight attendant lifestyle undermined by angry employee's claims of 'exploitation'
    Braising saddles: Did the recent furore scupper sales of horse meat? Neigh, far from it!

    Braising saddles: How to cook horse meat

    Did the recent furore scupper sales of horse meat? Neigh, far from it! Will Coldwell hoofs it to the kitchen.
    Why bitters are back on the bar: A few little drops pack a big punch in cocktails

    Why bitters are back on the bar

    A few little drops pack a big punch in cocktails. No wonder we're learning to love them again...