Bites: A family affair

More restaurants that keep it in the family

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Review: Locanda Locatelli, London

Le Champignon Sauvage

One of the country's most highly rated restaurants marries David Everitt-Matthias's cooking and his wife Helen's front-of-house sensitivity with an assurance that comes after 15 years working together. She runs the small, well-upholstered dining room with one other; he leads a team of chefs turning out dishes with fine ingredients enhanced with technical wizardry. Food is complex but not fussy, such as crab salad with jellied crab essence and lovage vichyssoise; roe deer with tea and spices; braised belly of pork with Chinese spices. Another strength is a wine list that majors on France.

24-26 Suffolk Road, Cheltenham, Glocs (01242 573449).

Percy's

This small Devon hotel and restaurant with its own organic kitchen garden is tended by Tina and Tony Bricknall-Webb. Sounds like The Good Life but it's more stylish than rustic. The sense of the seasons is palpable in her cooking -- she uses what's best at any time. Fish comes straight from the coast: mackerel; Cornish scallops and squid with dill, mustard and honey dressing; monkfish on wilted spinach with a saffron glaze. Cheeses and organic beef are local. Three courses are £37.50. Tony runs the front of house knowledgeably and the wine list has good choices by the glass. This idyll is off limits to smokers (who want to do it on the premises) and children.

Coombe's Head Estate, Virginstow, Devon (01409 211236).

Richmond Arms

Australians John and Marnie Cunningham have introduced a fresh, antipodean-influenced atmosphere and food to a small pub in a Georgian terrace. She's self-taught and works with a chef to produce bright flavoured dishes like a squid salad with chickpeas, coriander, chilli and lemon. He takes turns serving behind the bar and at tables. The 20 wines reflect their origins with the New World well represented. Modest prices: £10.95 (for duck breast with plum and tamarind sauce or lamb shank).

7 Richmond Place, Lansdown, Bath (01225 316725).

Yetman's

Peter and Alison Yetman had an idea of their perfect restaurant, and since 1988 it has become many others' ideal supper destination. Her cooking sounds homely but rises above the domestic with its skill and respect for the seasons and surroundings. Starters include omelette Arnold Bennett; scallops with roast tomatoes, parsley, garlic and brown butter; mains include steak and kidney pudding, and seabream with roast peppers. Damson and rose petal bombe or vanilla pannacotta with poached pear make a fragrant and refreshing finish. Two courses £25, three £30. Peter's enthusiasm for wine shows in the list which is mainly New World.

37 Norwich Road, Holt, Norfolk (01263 713320).