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Brotherly Grub

Friday 22 October 1999 23:00 BST
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Bibendum, Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 (0171-823 7925). Daily lunch and dinner. Following the style set by Simon Hopkinson, Matthew Harris (brother of the more famous, dare we say, Henry of Fifth Floor, see below) commands a thoroughly classic set-up in a fabulous dining room. The siblings grew up in the business: their parents ran Le Grandgousier in Brighton and they follow an essentially French outlook. Bibendum isn't above serving plaice and chips, and this is food that creates a wonderful sense of well being. For a price: £30 at least for three courses, more like £40 and the wine list tests the bank balance.

Bibendum, Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 (0171-823 7925). Daily lunch and dinner. Following the style set by Simon Hopkinson, Matthew Harris (brother of the more famous, dare we say, Henry of Fifth Floor, see below) commands a thoroughly classic set-up in a fabulous dining room. The siblings grew up in the business: their parents ran Le Grandgousier in Brighton and they follow an essentially French outlook. Bibendum isn't above serving plaice and chips, and this is food that creates a wonderful sense of well being. For a price: £30 at least for three courses, more like £40 and the wine list tests the bank balance.

The Fifth Floor, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1 (0171-235 5250) Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch. Older brother Henry Harris also produces a long, well-informed menu though slightly more fashion-conscious. He is no stranger to television either and is co-author of The Fifth Floor Cookbook. His constantly evolving repertoire ranges from grilled veal chop to Dover sole with winkles and cucumber. From £25-£40 without drink. Lunch is £23.50.

Hazlewood Castle, Paradise Lane, Hazlewood, Tadcaster, North Yorkshire (01937 535353). Prickly Pear Brasserie, daily lunch and dinner. Restaurant 1086, Mon dinner, Tues-Fri lunch and dinner, Sat dinner, Sun lunch. John Benson-Smith is joined by his brother Matthew (formerly John Major's chef), who oversees a kitchen that serves the two restaurants in the hotel. The Prickly Pear Brasserie is informal and open all day. Set dinner is £15. The 1086 is a smoother operation, with a smartly quirky menu. Lunch is £15 for three courses, dinner £30, or £50 for the "Indulgence" menu.

McCoy's Bistro, The Cleveland Tontine, Staddlebridge, North Yorkshire (01609 882671). Daily lunch and dinner. Restaurant Fri and Sat dinner. Few other foodie families can hold a candle to the McCoy brothers, who have held sway in the region for years. Two of the four, Tom and Eugene, run this celebrated staging post, consisting of the more boisterous basement bistro, and the still quirky but more sedate restaurant which opens two nights a week for special occasions. Around £27 for three satisfying courses, at once hearty and sophisticated, as in roast grouse, gaufrette potatoes, bread sauce, port sauce, sausage and bacon roll. The two other brothers are engaged elsewhere - one owns the Purple Onion Bistro in Middlesborough.

Two Brothers, 297-303 Regents Park Road, London N3 (0181-346 0469). Tues-Sat lunch and dinner. Tony and Leon Manzi run this superior fish and chip restaurant, although Tony is currently sailing round the world in his yacht. The brothers' ownvineyard provides some of the wines and the restaurant is cherished for its brilliant fish (cod and chips is £8.50). Daily specials include salmon, with hollandaise or soy sauce and ginger.

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