Café Bleu, Newark, Nottinghamshire

Where do the hipsters and the arty crowd of Nottinghamshire go when they they're looking for style-suffused dining?

Where do the hipsters and the arty crowd of Nottinghamshire go when they they're looking for style-suffused dining? To this bistro near the regenerated riverside and next to the castle ruins, of course. The décor comprises distressed-effect walls lined with abstract artwork, a lavish gilt-framed mirror, and an Art Nouveau fireplace. Live music and cabaret, such as jazz and flamenco, is available, and the place is usually packed. The cooking offers modern British fare reinterpreted with continental and Mediterranean influences. Starters may include roast wood pigeon - "may contain shot", warns the menu - with wild mushroom broth, blackfoot chorizo and caraway noodles, or chilled vanilla-poached sea trout with asparagus, beetroot, carrot, orange and saffron. The mains are well-loved classics with a modern twist, such as saffron linguini with pickled wild mushrooms, and roast salmon with tomato fondue and avruga caviar cream. Dishes also include a commendable use of British ingredients such as Aberdeenshire rump steak, Cornish cod and Warwickshire sausages. Never have the kind of ingredients your granny used to cook with been more fashionable.

Café Bleu, Castlegate, Newark, Nottinghamshire 01636 610141, www.cafebleu.co.uk, lunch Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm, Sun 12-3pm, dinner Mon-Fri 7-9.30pm, Sat 6.30-10pm. Meal for two, excl wine: £45