Claridge's, restaurant review: Is afternoon tea at the posh London hotel worth £50?


I know what you're thinking: £50 for tea. Fifty pounds? For tea and cake? But this is one's reality when Auntie Virginia is celebrating her 70th and the One Thing she's always wanted to do is have afternoon tea at a posh hotel in London. Hence the £50 scone.

I did my research: there's the Ritz. There's Browns. There's the Goring. They are all upwards of £40… Perhaps you've done this research, too – there's scarcely a restaurant-going family in the country that hasn't considered this for a staid relation. Waiting lists are common.

Since its fame went to a new level following the BBC fly-on-the-wall series, Claridge's is favourite with my Southampton-based aunt and, to be honest, I've always wanted to have afternoon tea there myself. Still, my warm feelings don't extend to taking the entire family, my largesse restricted by bank balance. So Auntie V and Uncle T, plus my sister Claire and I, arrive at 3pm on a Sunday, which is peak bustle. I might have gone a bit Downton in my excitement, with a pillbox hat and heels, and my aunt might have had a special manicure and made a weekend of it; we are therefore slightly dismayed to see men in (shriek) untucked shirts and quite a lot of jeans and sneakers.

Was I hopelessly old-fashioned to hope for the entire place to be swish, with flashes of drama? I realise I've imagined the price acts as a dress code, which I admit comes off as snobbish – I just love food as theatre. The two can be around the same price, after all, and last the same time. I saw Juliet Stevenson in Happy Days at the Young Vic the other night, and it was astonishingly good – with an interval glass of wine and a taxi, it was the same price.

The theatre at Claridge's is provided by the staff. Every last one of us guests is treated like the A-listers who are never far from the hotel's revolving doors. Diminutive Auntie V has a cushion installed on her beautiful Art Deco chair within seconds of alighting on it; a small table is brought in a flash for my handbag to rest upon. Uh huh, could get used to this…

Then the menu, with a flourish. The tinkling piano, the eau de nil colour palette, the swish of waiters delivering and removing plates of perfectly proportioned morsels is delicious itself. But gosh, the menu – practically a hardback. Who'd have thought sandwiches, scones and tea could be so distracting. The chicken is from Daylesford, the salmon from the Severn & Wye Smokery. That egg mayonnaise? Only Burford Browns will do, darling. Executive chef (yes, for tea) Martyn Nail knows there's nowhere to hide in a finger sandwich. One imagines he has a ruler, such is the immaculate appearance of each plate.

Auntie V, being diminutive, doesn't finish her sandwiches, but we do, and another plate is placed before us without a murmur or glance. But it doesn't do to fill up on savouries, oh no. The scones are warm and light as a feather, with fudgy clotted cream and Marco Polo gelée (a lip-smacking jam infused with bergamot and vanilla). The industry behind this majestic food is astounding.

The menu suggests different teas for each course. I stick – from a menu of 23 – with Claridge's Blend, which is a bit like ordering house white, but, hey, the house is pretty swanky. Claire has Malawi Antlers white tea ("unspeakably rare") because, she reasons, she's unlikely to come across it again.

And so, with our waistbands now uncomfortably tight, to the cakes. There's a vanilla mille-feuille, a raspberry macaron, a dense chocolate cake and a crumbly classic fruit-rich slice. I am beaten, Auntie V looks like she might faint. And with that, our waiter whisks the plate away and returns with the treasures in a cake box, within a Claridge's carrier bag.

"When I die," the actor Spencer Tracy said, "I don't want to go to heaven, I want to go to Claridge's." I don't believe in heaven, so I'd like to go back to Claridge's some time before I die, please. And I was still eating cake two days later (admittedly with Yorkshire Gold).

There are more fashionable restaurants. There are more grown-up meals than nursery fare. But to my mind, and more importantly Auntie V's, it was glorious. If you've ever wondered about afternoon tea at this posh hotel, my verdict is Money. Well. Spent.


Claridge's, 49 Brook Street, London W1, Tel: 020 7629 8860. Tea for two: £100

Four more things I've been eating this week

Holborn Dining Room

The new restaurant at the Rosewood Hotel is a masterful mix of flattering lighting, great wine list, cosy atmosphere and a comforting menu. It'll be a hit.


Forgot my order, then tried to rush-roast a chicken. No good, but they speedily apologised and removed it from the bill – and for that I’d give them a second chance.


I hadn’t had one for years, but on a cruise recently (of which more anon), it hit the spot as a moreish sharpener – softer than a Martini, less claggy than a piña colada.


A source of perpetual dismay that this chain isn’t open near either my house or office, but its books are ace. Out this week: Fast Vegetarian, perfect for spring’s new produce.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Bid / Tender Writing Executive

    £24000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: With offices in Manchester, Lon...

    Guru Careers: Marketing Executives / Marketing Communications Consultants

    Competitive (DOE) + Benefits: Guru Careers: We are seeking a number of Marketi...

    Recruitment Genius: Marketing Executive

    £20000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This well established business ...

    Ashdown Group: Management Accountant - Manchester

    £25000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: Management Accountant - Manchester...

    Day In a Page

    Where the spooks get their coffee fix: The busiest Starbucks in the US is also the most secretive

    The secret CIA Starbucks

    The coffee shop is deep inside the agency's forested Virginia compound
    Revealed: How the Establishment closed ranks over fallout from Loch Ness Monster 'sighting'

    How the Establishment closed ranks over fallout from Nessie 'sighting'

    The Natural History Museum's chief scientist was dismissed for declaring he had found the monster
    One million Britons using food banks, according to Trussell Trust

    One million Britons using food banks

    Huge surge in number of families dependent on emergency food aid
    Excavation at Italian cafe to fix rising damp unearths 2,500 years of history in 3,000 amazing objects

    2,500 years of history in 3,000 amazing objects

    Excavation at Italian cafe to fix rising damp unearths trove
    The Hubble Space Telescope's amazing journey, 25 years on

    The Hubble Space Telescope's amazing journey 25 years on

    The space telescope was seen as a costly flop on its first release
    Did Conservative peer Lord Ashcroft quit the House of Lords to become a non-dom?

    Did Lord Ashcroft quit the House of Lords to become a non-dom?

    A document seen by The Independent shows that a week after he resigned from the Lords he sold 350,000 shares in an American company - netting him $11.2m
    Apple's ethnic emojis are being used to make racist comments on social media

    Ethnic emojis used in racist comments

    They were intended to promote harmony, but have achieved the opposite
    Sir Kenneth Branagh interview: 'My bones are in the theatre'

    Sir Kenneth Branagh: 'My bones are in the theatre'

    The actor-turned-director’s new company will stage five plays from October – including works by Shakespeare and John Osborne
    The sloth is now the face (and furry body) of three big advertising campaigns

    The sloth is the face of three ad campaigns

    Priya Elan discovers why slow and sleepy wins the race for brands in need of a new image
    How to run a restaurant: As two newbies discovered, there's more to it than good food

    How to run a restaurant

    As two newbies discovered, there's more to it than good food
    Record Store Day: Remembering an era when buying and selling discs were labours of love

    Record Store Day: The vinyl countdown

    For Lois Pryce, working in a record shop was a dream job - until the bean counters ruined it
    Usher, Mary J Blige and to give free concert as part of the Global Poverty Project

    Mary J Blige and to give free concert

    The concert in Washington is part of the Global Citizen project, which aims to encourage young people to donate to charity
    10 best tote bags

    Accessorise with a stylish shopper this spring: 10 best tote bags

    We find carriers with room for all your essentials (and a bit more)
    Paul Scholes column: I hear Manchester City are closing on Pep Guardiola for next summer – but I'd also love to see Jürgen Klopp managing in England

    Paul Scholes column

    I hear Manchester City are closing on Pep Guardiola for next summer – but I'd also love to see Jürgen Klopp managing in England
    Jessica Ennis-Hill: 'I just want to give it my best shot'

    Jessica Ennis-Hill: 'I just want to give it my best shot'

    The heptathlete has gone from the toast of the nation to being a sleep-deprived mum - but she’s ready to compete again. She just doesn't know how well she'll do...