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Tower Restaurant, Edinburgh

Saturday 23 October 2004 00:00 BST
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This stylish offering from James Thompson, of the renowned Witchery by the Castle, is elegantly perched atop the Museum of Scotland, and has spawned many imitators since it opened six years ago.

This stylish offering from James Thompson, of the renowned Witchery by the Castle, is elegantly perched atop the Museum of Scotland, and has spawned many imitators since it opened six years ago. It's a popular, informal, star-studded enterprise, offering excellent views of the castle. The regularly-changing modern Scottish menu showcases a combination of fresh seafood, grilled meat and vegetarian dishes. Start with Cumbrae rock oysters, pickled vegetables, Tabasco and shallot vinegar. Or seared smoked Shetland salmon with celeriac and caper remoulade, or even air-dried beef with truffle oil and rocket. Mains include suckling pig with roasted root vegetables and blue cheese dumplings, and roast partridge with cabbage and bacon. The restaurant uses only fully traceable Aberdeen Angus beef hung for at least three weeks - a current distillation of all the cool concepts. Orange pannatonne bread and butter pudding with orange marmalade ice cream and Grand Marnier sauce is one of many tempting puddings on offer. There's a good list of wines and spirits, with almost 30 varieties of whiskies.

The Tower Restaurant, Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Edinburgh, 0131 225 3003, www.tower-restaurant.com, all week lunch, 12-4pm, dinner 5.30-11.30pm. Meal for two, excl wine: £65

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