Early new potatoes have started to arrive in the shops, and come May they will be more profuse and selling at a lower price. Jersey Royals are widely recognised as the pick of the bunch for their fresh-from- the-ground flavour and creamy texture.

This recipe allows new potatoes to wallow in their own glory. With the addition of whipped cream, the herbed fromage frais melts at the edges over the hot potatoes. A spoon of salmon keta roe would be the icing on the cake. If the potatoes are large enough, and you are averse to their skins, then peel them. If they are tiny or the skins are very thin, then scrub them. Herbs for the fromage frais can be varied.

New potatoes with herbed fromage frais

Serves 4

Ingredients: 2lb (1kg) new potatoes

2oz (50g) unsalted butter

salt, pepper

For the herbed fromage frais: 10oz (300g) fromage frais

1tsp white wine vinegar or champagne vinegar

1dsp extra-virgin olive oil

salt, pepper

1 heaped tsp each of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, chives and dill

8 basil leaves, finely chopped

1/2tsp tarragon, finely chopped

6tsp double cream

Preparation: Put a large pan of salted water on to boil, and cook the potatoes until tender. Drain, return to pan, add the butter, allow it to melt, and season. While the potatoes are cooking, whisk the fromage frais in a bowl. Blend in vinegar, olive oil, seasoning and herbs. Lightly whisk the cream and fold into the herbed fromage frais.

Serve the potatoes with melted butter and a heaped spoon of herbed cheese in the centre.