Wines of the week: Five Australian autumnal reds

Australian wines have moved-on and grown-up, says Terry Kirby, and are now made with a more Old World approach

When it comes to red wines, Australia has one real reputation among consumers: big, sometimes overpowering wines, often made with shiraz or cabernet sauvignon grapes, whether you are buying a branded bottle in your corner shop or a boutique wine from a highly-rated producer.

Well, that's true up to a point. Those cheapo branded wines are still there with a certain reliability about their no-nonsense varietal labelling, but they are no longer the whole story. Aussie wine making has long moved on, at both ends of the market, with a more subtle, Old World approach, more blended wines and greater prominence for some hitherto overlooked European grape varieties.

Syrah or shiraz as it is mostly known down under, has of course been the big Aussie grape, but if you want something that shows the way, try SC Pannell Field Street Shiraz 2015 (£16.95 per bottle, minimum order 6 bottles; justincases.co.uk; £203.51 for 12, thefinewinecompany.co.uk) from McLaren Vale wine maker Stephen Pannell who learnt his trade in France and Italy and it shows in this gorgeously balanced wine, with pure black fruits, some earthy notes and a fresh, vibrant finish. A big, sophisticated dinner party style wine to match with a roast leg of lamb. As is the Rockford Moppa Springs Grenache Mataro Shiraz 2009 (£29 sohowine.co.uk; £32 noblegreenwines.co.uk) a real Barossa Valley blockbuster, but showing how lesser known Mediterranean varieties like Mataro (or Mourvedre) and Grenache can balance the raw power of Shiraz, creating something really rich, spicy and complex and more akin to a French Chateauneuf du Pape, which can use the same GSM blend. This might be one to stock up for a rib of beef at Christmas – or keep it for years to come.

For more everyday drinking with say a pizza or bowl of pasta – or if you are having a barbecue over Halloween or on Bonfire Night – try the commendably carbon neutral, medium bodied Wakefield 80 Acres Shiraz Viognier 2015, (£5.99 aldi.co.uk) where the scented viognier lifts and lightens the rich blackberry fruits of shiraz.

The Wine Society’s terrific budget priced Blind Spot range, as recommended previously in this column, demonstrated the potential of lesser known Australian varietal wines, but if you are looking for something a bit more special, head for the enticing and biodynamic Bill Downie Petit Verdot 2015 (£17.50 swig.co.uk; £18 oldbridgewine.co.uk). From a highly reputable maker of finely crafted boutique wines, this is delightfully medium bodied take on a European staple and packed with autumnal fruit flavours; ideal for the season’s game and mushrooms. And Rioja fans might want to branch out and try the truly wonderful Running With Bulls Barossa Tempranillo 2016 (£15.99 henningswine.co.uk; simplywinesdirect.uk; frazierswine.co.uk, minimum order 6 bottles) which is a wonderful expression of still youthful but fulsome Rioja: just a little oak ageing, succulent, juicy, boisterous, earthy, highly drinkable, ideal with smoked meats, light pork dishes and chicken paella.

Finally, a shameless plug for a good cause: Choral group Evoke are combining with wine educator James Flewellen for an evening of wine tasting and music to raise money for the restoration of the historic Great Hall of St Bartholomew’s Hospital in Smithfield, London. The event takes place on November 18 in the Great Hall itself and further details are here