Food: Bites: It's not just Morton's. MPW proteges are taking over London.
Saturday 10 October 1998
Chavot 257-259 Fulham Road, London SW3 (0171-351 7823). Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat. Eric Chavot worked at The Restaurant Marco Pierre White, impressing the boss enough to help him set up under his own name at Interlude de Chavot in Fitzrovia. Chavot's current act is in Chelsea, where the cooking is impressive - classic French bourgeois with an extra dimension of intriguing spicing. Try a substantial salad of lamb and feta as an example of the headier north African/eastern Mediterranean persuasion, or the stuffed rabbit leg with squid and barley risotto as proof that Chavot's a chef with a mind of his own. Lunch is pounds 15.50 for two courses, pounds 18.50 for three; dinner has starters for pounds 10 and pounds 12.50, mains for pounds 18 to pounds 22.50, and desserts for pounds 8.
Frith Street Restaurant 63-64 Frith Street, London W1 (0171-734 4545). Stephen Terry, ex of Coast, came from The Canteen where he was head chef in Marco's first relatively populist venture. Now he's opening a smaller place with Claudio Pulze who used to have a share in Aubergine. Frith Street is due to open at the end of October. Having shown his French classical background a clean pair of heels at Coast and headed for the Pacific before others caught up, Terry's next menu will be what is reluctantly described as modern European. Lunch pounds 15 or pounds 19 for two or three courses, dinner pounds 20 and pounds 26.
Gordon Ramsay 68 Royal Hospital Road, London SW3 (0171-352 4441). Lunch and dinner, Mon-Fri. Despite the risk of over-exposure after last week's fulsome review, Marco Pierre White's best-known ex-colleague has to be included here. Ramsay worked at Harvey's for a couple of years before moving on to Le Gavroche and then France. His new restaurant is aiming high - for three Michelin stars. Set-price lunch is pounds 25, a la carte, pounds 50, six-course dinner menu, pounds 65.
Diving in at the deep end is no excuse for shirking the style stakes
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