On one of the filthy streets typical of trendy Camden Town, with a fine view of other people's dustbins, stands this cafe-brasserie which caters heavily to meeja folk and other showoffs in sunglasses. Although it's open at 8am for breakfast, and closes at midnight, you'll need that time to wait for the service to trickle through: I once waited while a friend went home for a bath, shave and a couple of phone calls and had only just got my first glass of wine by the time his gleaming cheeks resurfaced. It's worth waiting, though, for the chocolate mousse, a glassful of striped heaven. Well worth it.

Cafe Delancey, 3 Delancey St NW1 (071-387 1985).

Tomorrow: The Cheshire Cheese, EC4.

(Photograph omitted)

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