London Fashion Week begins with less exposure

London Fashion Week kicks off today with more of a whimper than a bang.

The mid-90s days when, in a blaze of media hype, Alexander McQueen staged some of the world's most glamorous shows – with Hussein Chalayan, Julien Macdonald and Antonio Berardi just behind – are long gone.

A new generation of designers has emerged, aware that the furore surrounding Cool Britannia was not necessarily a good thing. A fledgling designer's career can, after all, be just as damaged by over-exposure as by a lack of it.

The message, then, is that to grow slowly but surely, and to sell clothes over and above staging pyrotechnic shows, is the way forward.

Aesthetically, things have changed too. If British fashion was characterised by the razor-sharp tailoring and flesh-revealing designs typified by McQueen, today a more thoughtful, quiet and individual vision prevails.

Names to watch include Sophia Kokosalaki, whose arts and crafts-based designs are influential the world over, and Emma Cook, who plays off a handcrafted, precious approach against raw energy and materials. Peter Jensen, Russell Sage and Shami Senthi – graduates of the Central Saint Martins MA course – are emerging talents. Roland Mouret and Warren Noronha top the glamour list.

More established British talents – Paul Smith, Betty Jackson, Nicole Farhi, Jasper Conran and Ghost, to name a few – will also be out in force. It is testimony to their competence that, while many of the younger generation have been forced to move overseas, they have built up healthy businesses at home.

Last season was severely disrupted by the events of 11 September. Paul Smith and Katharine Hamnett cancelled shows and attendances throughout remained at a record low. This time round, London was persuaded to change places with New York, normally the first city to show, to avoid the American fashion capital's shows clashing with the anniversary.

This season's shows should generate a healthy interest, if not the hysteria of yesteryear. Way back then, business was booming. Today the world is more cautious.