Lacroix exuberance adds gloss to show
Thursday 13 October 1994
THE HALLMARK of Christian Lacroix has always been exuberance. Yesterday's show mixed zestful disco dressing with Marie Antoinette panniers and lace furbelows. It veered between the desirable (the midnight blue lame fitted jacket, matching shorts and electric blue bra) to the margins of tawdry glamour (jewels, macrame, applique baroque bustiers clashing with organza ruffled skirts).
Lacroix's haute couture show last July was an outstanding example of what can be achieved by the mix of Parisian atelier skills and a wild imagination.
Surprisingly, he is also good at affordable clothes - his new diffusion line, Bazar (which started yesterday's show), had quirky, perky, saleable pieces.
But when it came to his ready-to-wear collection, it was a case of high jinks at the Folies Bergere. Curvy jackets, cut to a tight sleeve and what Lacroix calls his 'pagoda' shoulder, accentuated the waist with swingy, thigh-length skirts.
The shoes included metallic leather strappy stilettos, wet-look plastic leopard-print booties and stack-heel wedges with cut-away hearts through the soles.
Those with a kindly disposition would describe Lacroix's ready-to-wear customer as an extrovert.
But she is not afraid to look like a trophy wife; all frou-frou, glitzy and sugary spun colours.
This is an overstated femininity, rather witty when it works, but, oh, when it doesn't . . . Christian is a man who clearly does not know when to shout 'arrete'.
Many in the audience (and a couple of models) looked bleary-eyed - on Tuesday night, Rei Kawakubo launched the first perfume by Comme des Garcons at a party held around the swimming pool at the Ritz.
Synchronised swimmers glided from one end of the pool to the other while guests sniffed at their perfume-infused cards as if they were smelling-salts in an attempt to perk up after a long day that included a two-hour wait before the Claude Montana show. This finally started at 10pm and ended after squadrons of Bladerunner models in razor-cut tailoring had stomped on and off the stage.
But Paris has its highlights. The Japanese designers are enjoying a resurgence. Yohji Yamamoto presented a beautiful collection on Tuesday with an evolution of his current winter kimono shapes in floaty bamboo-printed chiffon and vibrant splashes of poppy red.
- 1 Rarest Beanie Baby bought for just £10 at car boot sale could be sold for £62,500 on eBay
- 3 Giorgio Armani criticises the way some gay men dress saying 'a man has to be a man'
Rarest Beanie Baby bought for just £10 at car boot sale could be sold for £62,500 on eBay
Katie Hopkins and The Sun editor David Dinsmore reported to police for incitement to racial hatred following migrant boat column
'Jihadi John': Isis executioner Mohammed Emwazi wanted to wage jihad in Somalia until his friends were betrayed and killed by al-Shabaab
Parma, Missouri: 80 per cent of town's police quit after first black mayor is elected
Australian student Tommy Connolly, 23, adopts his pregnant, homeless 17-year-old cousin to give her a chance at 'a better life'
If I’m being racially abused I don’t need a stranger with a saviour complex to rescue me
The only black face in the Ukip manifesto is on the page about overseas aid
Ukip is the only main political party to not address LGBT rights in its manifesto
Food banks: One million Britons will soon be using them, according to Trussell Trust
Religion isn't growing, it is becoming vigorous in its demise, says philosopher AC Grayling
BBC election debate: The one photo that summed up the whole 90-minute leaders debate
£20000 - £25000 per annum + commission: SThree: Real Staffing's Pharmaceutical...
£25000 - £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A growing company in Belvedere ...
£25000 - £30000 per annum + Uncapped Commission: SThree: Sthree are looking fo...
£24000 - £32000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Are you looking to work in a sm...