The best of Dior for spring is old hat: Gianfranco Ferre does the time warp again with full-blown bustles and bows
Tuesday 18 January 1994
For Gianfranco Ferre, the designer at Dior, his latest spring- summer collection was no exception, producing ball gowns, trouser suits and cocktail dresses which spoke volumes.
Ferre has never been afraid of fabric, but these are the clothes that make a grand statement - 'I do not work because I can hardly move'.
Usually it is the big bow or enormous jabot with trailing ties that finishes the Dior outfit. This season it is the sleeve, with jackets sporting lace puffs wide enough for 10 couture customers to cry on.
Even sitting down is tricky, because the overblown bustle is back with a vengeance. Full, shantung taffeta skirts were inset with more layers than a deluxe milseuilles, a mass of tiny pleats.
By comparison, his dapper dandyesque suits accessorised with natty top hats and canes were restrained, elegant and verging on the minimal. Although we have seen this style and era too many times for it to look fresh, it is the backbone of the collection and will please his pounds 8,000-a-time customers.
Like so many of the couturiers in Paris, Ferre appears stuck in a time warp, where the clothes bear little relevance to what women want to wear today.
By continual use of historical reference points and dredging up bygone eras, he is putting women in the past, when what we are seeking is modernity, comfort and form following function.
- 2 Dutch King Willem-Alexander declares the end of the welfare state
- 3 A-level results 2015: UK exam board OCR admits it 'estimates' hundreds of pupils' grades after papers 'go missing'
- 4 Giant Minion terrorises drivers in Ireland as 40ft inflatable blocks busy Dublin road
- 5 'Cool kids' can go on to become losers in later life, study finds
Sabrina Corgatelli: US hunting tourist posts picture of herself with dead giraffe after Cecil the lion outrage
'Gene drive': Scientists sound alarm over supercharged GM organisms which could spread in the wild and cause environmental disasters
Edward Heath 'child sex abuse' allegation: Investigation to be held into Wiltshire police handling of alleged claim in the 1990s
Labour leadership race: Jeremy Corbyn could be the next Prime Minister, says Ken Clarke
A-level results 2015: UK exam board OCR admits it 'estimates' hundreds of pupils' grades after papers 'go missing'
Is Britain really full up? Are migrants taking our jobs? Leading academic answers the most common anti-immigration claims
Calais Migrant Crisis: Deputy Mayor of Calais labels Cameron's use of 'swarm' as 'racist' and 'ignorant'
Chris Leslie: Jeremy Corbyn's anti-austerity agenda will harm the poor, says Labour shadow Chancellor
Landlords renting properties to illegal immigrants to face up to five years in prison
While we fixate on Calais, the Home Office is quietly deporting dozens of migrants on 'ghost flights'
Calais crisis: The seven claims made about the migrants - and the reality
£20,781 to £24,057 per annum: East15 Acting School: The post involves general ...
£28000 - £32000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: ACS qualified Domestic Gas Brea...
£16250 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Product Packager / Stock Assistant is ...
£22000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This Garden Centre complex base...