Postcard from... Ottawa

Food trucks fill three whole city blocks in Ottawa at a festival to celebrate a single local speciality. In the UK we would call it what it is: chips, cheese and gravy. But in bilingual Canada this fast-food favourite has a French name: Poutine.

The origins story is disputed by at least two other Montreal restaurants, which also claim to be the birthplace of the dish. Half a century later, this bulky comfort food is a national institution. Sometime in its early history, gravy was added to tie the ingredients together and keep the chips warm.

At the annual Sparks Street Poutine Fest, I pick a truck at random from the dozens on offer, all of which serve variations on the simple dish. I order a classic Poutine rather than one of the more complex, sophisticated menu choices, such as Poutine “with bacon”.

It’s hearty street food, probably best eaten late at night. The lubricated mass of potato and curds sits heavy in my stomach for the rest of the day. In that respect, at least, it’s a meal I won’t forget in a hurry.