B&B and Beyond: Ca'n poma, Mallorca

A secluded country house amid olive groves offers boutique hotel services as well as outstanding views, says Mick Webb

Concealed at the end of a long narrow track, which zigzags downwards through an olive grove in mountainous, northern Mallorca, is the restored country house of Ca'n Poma. Secluded and peaceful, but just 40 minutes' drive from Palma airport, it bolsters the bed and breakfast offering with boutique hotel services. The terraced grounds, whose different levels are connected by stone steps, are an Escher-like sequence of surprises: a Moorish-style water feature which runs down towards the swimming pool, little patios and lawns, all shaded by imposing exotic trees alongside the local species of olive, lemon and orange. If you add the views, the walks and the charms of the local towns and coast, this is a relaxing – and affordable – base for a long weekend break.

The Bed

The six doubles and two suites have been carefully arranged to create a sense of privacy and take full advantage of the views across or down a wooded valley. Five are in a stone building which was once the barn, and the others are in the main house which also contains the breakfast room.

The rooms are furnished simply but attractively, with terracotta floors, wooden beds and tiled en-suite bathrooms; apart from one, they have French doors to terraces with chairs and tables. Television is absent, but with views like the ones on offer, who needs to look at a screen? However, Wi-Fi is available in the rooms and the garden.

The Breakfast

Tables are arranged, quite intimately, at one end of the light and airy dining room-cum-lounge, whose oak beams contrast with whitewashed walls. Your fellow guests are most likely to be German, and there's plenty of time to chat over the copious breakfasts: muesli, fruit salad, cold meats, cheese, good bread and cooked eggs. On summer days, this is served on the terrace, to the accompaniment of birdsong. Evening meals are also available on request. Theo, one of the owners, is an accomplished chef and has a good cellar of local wines. A three-course dinner is €28.90 (£23). You can get drinks at any time from the honesty bar.

The Hosts

Uta Delissen is German and her husband Theo is Dutch. When they bought a rather run-down Ca'* Poma in 2006 they set about restoring the original beauty of the 300-year-old house. Uta says: "We wanted to create a place where one can enjoy the silence and beauty of nature." A qualified instructor, she offers yoga sessions (from €12/£9.50) and massages, while Theo gives cooking classes and provides trips in their fishing boat. They share a passion for Mallorca and will help with information, supply walking maps and give advice on where to go; they always seem to have time for a chat.

The weekend

The location is remote, and a hire car is advisable if you want to see more than Ca'* Poma. A five-minute drive away is Sóller, one of Mallorca's finest towns, with an array of Art Nouveau buildings. Make time to visit Can Prunera (00 34 971 638 973; canprunera.com), a museum housed in a striking Modernist building with works by Miró, Picasso, Cézanne and more.

A few kilometres to the west is Deià, "the village of the artists", whose picturesque houses cascade down the hillside towards a secluded cove. Here, you can visit the former home of the poet Robert Graves, now a museum (00 34 971 636 185; lacasaderobertgraves.com), and Café Sa Fonda (C/Arxiduc Lluis Salvador 5) for a cold beer, to listen to live music or look out for holidaying celebrities.

Ideally, though, you should forget the car, pull on your walking boots, ask Theo for one of his maps and set off on foot. The well-signed GR221, a long-distance footpath through the Tramuntana mountains, will take you to the beach at Puerto de Sóller in a couple of hours – the sea is warm enough for a swim well into October.

The pit stop

The area has dozens of good restaurants and tapas bars, but a notable option for value and quality is Ca'* Boqueta in Sóller (00 34 971 638 398). Its owner, young Mallorcan chef Kiko Martorell, has created a €25.90 (£20.50) tasting menu, which changes weekly and comprises five small (but not too small) courses; cod with honey alioli and confit potatoes is one dish to savour.

The essentials

Ca'* Poma, carretera de Deià 48, Sóller, Mallorca, Spain (00 34 971 63 25 60; canpoma.com). Doubles start at €130 (£103), B&B.

News
newsAnother week, another dress controversy on the internet
Life and Style
Scientist have developed a test which predicts whether you'll live for another ten years
health
Life and Style
Marie had fake ID, in the name of Johanna Koch, after she evaded capture by the Nazis in wartime Berlin
historyOne woman's secret life as a Jew in wartime Berlin
News
news... and what your reaction to the creatures above says about you
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Recruitment Genius: Lifeguards / Leisure Club Attendants - Seasonal Placement

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: Qualified Lifeguards are required to join a fa...

    Recruitment Genius: Assistant Exhibition Content Developer

    £19000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Based in South Kensington, this prestigi...

    Ashdown Group: Marketing Manager - major leisure brand

    £40000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A reputable organisation within the leisure i...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Partner

    £25000 - £33000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Sales Partner is required to ...

    Day In a Page

    The difference between America and Israel? There isn’t one

    The difference between America and Israel? There isn’t one

    Netanyahu knows he can get away with anything in America, says Robert Fisk
    Families clubbing together to build their own affordable accommodation

    Do It Yourself approach to securing a new house

    Community land trusts marking a new trend for taking the initiative away from developers
    Head of WWF UK: We didn’t send Cameron to the Arctic to see green ideas freeze

    David Nussbaum: We didn’t send Cameron to the Arctic to see green ideas freeze

    The head of WWF UK remains sanguine despite the Government’s failure to live up to its pledges on the environment
    Author Kazuo Ishiguro on being inspired by shoot-outs and samurai

    Author Kazuo Ishiguro on being inspired by shoot-outs and samurai

    Set in a mythologised 5th-century Britain, ‘The Buried Giant’ is a strange beast
    With money, corruption and drugs, this monk fears Buddhism in Thailand is a ‘poisoned fruit’

    Money, corruption and drugs

    The monk who fears Buddhism in Thailand is a ‘poisoned fruit’
    America's first slavery museum established at Django Unchained plantation - 150 years after slavery outlawed

    150 years after it was outlawed...

    ... America's first slavery museum is established in Louisiana
    Kelly Clarkson: How I snubbed Simon Cowell and become a Grammy-winning superstar

    Kelly Clarkson: How I snubbed Simon Cowell and become a Grammy-winning superstar

    The first 'American Idol' winner on how she manages to remain her own woman – Jane Austen fascination and all
    Tony Oursler on exploring our uneasy relationship with technology with his new show

    You won't believe your eyes

    Tony Oursler's new show explores our uneasy relationship with technology. He's one of a growing number of artists with that preoccupation
    Ian Herbert: Peter Moores must go. He should never have been brought back to fail again

    Moores must go. He should never have been brought back to fail again

    The England coach leaves players to find solutions - which makes you wonder where he adds value, says Ian Herbert
    War with Isis: Fears that the looming battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

    The battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

    Aid agencies prepare for vast exodus following planned Iraqi offensive against the Isis-held city, reports Patrick Cockburn
    Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

    Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

    The shadow Home Secretary on fighting radical Islam, protecting children, and why anyone in Labour who's thinking beyond May must 'sort themselves out'
    A bad week for the Greens: Leader Natalie Bennett's 'car crash' radio interview is followed by Brighton council's failure to set a budget due to infighting

    It's not easy being Green

    After a bad week in which its leader had a public meltdown and its only city council couldn't agree on a budget vote, what next for the alternative party? It's over to Caroline Lucas to find out
    Gorillas nearly missed: BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter

    Gorillas nearly missed

    BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter
    Downton Abbey effect sees impoverished Italian nobles inspired to open their doors to paying guests for up to €650 a night

    The Downton Abbey effect

    Impoverished Italian nobles are opening their doors to paying guests, inspired by the TV drama
    China's wild panda numbers have increased by 17% since 2003, new census reveals

    China's wild panda numbers on the up

    New census reveals 17% since 2003