Simon Calder: Don't take the 5.06 for an early Bath

The man who pays his way

As September slides into October, the traveller turns away from European beaches towards the next city break – whether the culinary delights of Lyon (see 48 Hours on pages 10-11) or somewhere closer, such as the fine city of Bath. Accordingly, First Great Western has produced a poster showing a couple in the rooftop pool of Thermae Bath Spa, soaking up the sights as the slowly sinking sun highlights the city skyline.

"I'm drowning in paperwork," puns the strapline. "Until I board the 5.06 to Bath."

Anyone seeking to emulate the couple had better not board the 5.06 to Bath. This early-evening train from Paddington does indeed go to Bath, but why anyone would ever take it to visit the spa city for an indulgent weekend is a mystery. Most trains from London to Bath stop three or four times en route. This departure stops 11 times, starting with a pause at Twyford to drop off commuters heading for Henley via the branch line. Then, after the customary stop at Reading, the 5.06 veers off the fast track to Bath to follow the Exeter line. The Bath-bound passengers who missed the 5pm may curse those six expensive minutes as they pause at Theale and Thatcham, then wend through Wiltshire via Pewsey, Trowbridge and Bradford-on-Avon. Had they cooled their heels at Paddington and caught the 5.30pm they would have overtaken the rustically roaming 5.06, and arrived almost half an hour earlier.

The train operator's bizarre choice of departure made me wonder about other strange UK train services. With the help of the Thomas Cook timetable compilers in their Peterborough office, I have dug out a new top three weird train trips.

The indirect route

In third place, a Cross Country train that lives up to its name, taking in an astonishing amount of ground considering it covers a straight-line distance of only 120 miles. Next time you are awake at 7.10am, spare a moment to visualise the start of a train journey that combines Birmingham University with Cambridge, connects the cathedral cities of Gloucester, Peterborough and Ely, links the Cotswolds with Rutland, and ends at Britain's fourth-busiest airport. All courtesy of the daily Gloucester to Stansted airport service on which the end-to-end fare is a flat £100.

The favourite of the Thomas Cook team is nothing short of a human geography field trip in three and a bit hours. Start in Buxton, the highest town in England, at 3.32pm any weekday, and the only departure on the board is for Barrow-in-Furness. The Northern Rail journey unwinds through the Peak District. It sweeps through the battlefields of the Industrial Revolution – Manchester, Bolton, the Ribble Valley – and doffs its cap at Carnforth, iconic station location for the film Brief Encounter. The finale is most spectacular: it winds around Morecambe Bay, across estuaries that defeat mere roads, with tantalising views of the Cumbrian mountains before ending at what is popularly called the biggest cul-de-sac in the country.

Long gone

For me, Britain's strangest scheduled train trip is also its longest: the 8.20am from Aberdeen to Penzance – again, run by Cross Country – though cross countries would be more accurate. Even National Rail Enquiries suggests that anyone on Deeside seeking a breakfast-time departure for the bitter end of Cornwall should take the Penzance train but change three times – at Edinburgh Haymarket, Wolverhampton and Birmingham – in order to reach Penzance 50 minutes earlier. If you arrive a few minutes late at the station, never mind: you can join the train at Birmingham by taking the 8.42am from Aberdeen to Glasgow Queen Street, then a bus through the city centre, and a train to Birmingham. You can even catch up with it if you fly out of Aberdeen shortly after 2pm, thanks to Flybe's non-stop hop to Birmingham. That's because the 8.20 make good progress to Edinburgh, but then goes off the rails, so to speak. As with the other two candidates, no one is really expected to make the whole trip, but it helps to provide a large number of shorter sectors.

Instead of heading south-west, the Cross Country goes east before turning south, calling at Berwick-upon-Tweed and Burton-on-Trent on its 800-minute journey. Historians will note that it combines the ancient kingdoms of Fife and Wessex while aesthetes will appreciate the chance to cross the Tay, the Forth, the Tyne and the Tamar and see the waves break against the shores of Northumberland and South Devon, all without leaving your seat.

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
News in pictures
World news in pictures
       
Independent
Travel Shop
South Africa
15 nights from only £1,899pp Find out more
Paris and the Cote d’Azur city break
Seven nights from £579pp Find out more
Seville, Granada and Malaga break
Seven nights from £549pp Find out more

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Food Technology Teacher

    £26400 - £36000 per annum: Randstad Education Maidstone: An Independant school...

    Travel Consultant - Career In The Travel Industry!! Full Training Provided!!

    £22k-£25k + comm + benefits: Blue Travel Solutions: LOOKING FOR A CAREER IN TH...

    Caribbean Specialists !! Excellent Salary!!!

    £26k-£29k + excellent comm: Blue Travel Solutions: We have a high-end luxury t...

    Travel Agent

    £23000 - £27000 per annum + (£15K + Uncapped Commission & Benefits): Flight Ce...

    Day In a Page

    The price of pacifism: Refusing to go to war is finally being recognised as a brave act

    The price of pacifism

    From the Second World War refusenik to the 19-year-old Israeli, Holly Williams talks to five people who risked shame and suffering to take a stand as conscientious objector.
    'It was mass hysteria': Jason Isaacs on groupies, theatre bores and snogging James Bond

    Jason Isaacs: Groupies, theatre bores and James Bond

    To millions, Jason Isaacs is one of Harry Potter's arch enemies – but his wife prefers him as a Scottish TV detective.
    Notes from a small island: Is Sealand an independent 'micronation' or an illegal fortress?

    Sealand: 'Micronation' or illegal fortress?

    Thomas Hodgkinson spent a week at the tiny platform off the Suffolk coast to find out.
    Not a bad bone: Mark Hix cooks with cutlets and ribs

    Mark Hix cooks with cutlets and ribs

    If you ignore cutlets and ribs, you'll risk missing out on some delicious and easy meals, says our chef.
    The experts' guide to summer: From getting fit for the beach to recreating that Olympic buzz

    The experts' guide to summer

    From getting fit for the beach to recreating that Olympic buzz
    Sex, drugs and fast cars: The legend of James Hunt has set Hollywood hearts racing

    Legend of James Hunt has set Hollywood hearts racing

    Early glimpses of Ron Howard's film Rush suggest it will portray Hunt as a high-living lothario, with an insatiable appetite for partying.
    Macklemore: 'I don't have moderation when using drugs and alcohol. It was hurting my life'

    Macklemore: 'I don't have moderation'

    The next Vanilla Ice or the next Eminem? Macklemore doesn't have a record contract – but he does have the UK's biggest-selling single of the year.
    Don't be shy: Bill Granger's Sri Lankan recipes

    Don't be shy: Bill Granger's Sri Lankan recipes

    Sri Lankan cuisine is light, sunny, wonderfully spiced – and so easy to cook from scratch. Just as soon as you've broken into the coconut, that is.
    Sir James Dyson’s latest project: Cleaning up hospitals

    Sir James Dyson’s latest project: Cleaning up hospitals

    Doctors are hailing the revamp of a Bath neonatal unit, where babies sleep more and feed better, as the model for patient care
    One man returns to Argentina's town that drowned

    One man returns to Argentina's town that drowned

    Epecuen was submerged under 10 metres of water in 1985. Now the floods have gone – and 83-year-old Pablo Novak has moved back in
    The real thing? Historian publishes Coca Cola's 'secret formula'

    The real thing?

    Historian publishes Coca Cola's 'secret formula'
    Gordon Ramsey's worst nightmare: A restaurant he cannot save

    Gordon Ramsay's worst nightmare: A restaurant he cannot save

    The pugnacious chef finally met a shambolic restaurant he couldn't save. John Walsh on when TV makover refuseniks fight back
    Join Ryanair! See the world! But we're only paying you for nine months a year

    Join Ryanair! See the world! But we're only paying you for nine months a year

    Glamorous myth of the flight attendant lifestyle undermined by angry employee's claims of 'exploitation'
    Braising saddles: Did the recent furore scupper sales of horse meat? Neigh, far from it!

    Braising saddles: How to cook horse meat

    Did the recent furore scupper sales of horse meat? Neigh, far from it! Will Coldwell hoofs it to the kitchen.
    Why bitters are back on the bar: A few little drops pack a big punch in cocktails

    Why bitters are back on the bar

    A few little drops pack a big punch in cocktails. No wonder we're learning to love them again...