Book review: The Fish Store: Recipes and Recollections, By Lindsay Bareham

 

Restaurants aside, not many buildings inspire food books. Yet this summer feast emerges from a former pilchard factory in Cornwall, purchased as a home in 1939 by Edwin John, son of the painter Augustus John.

Having married into the family, Bareham utilised the cornucopia on her doorstep, though her recipes venture far beyond the county borders: crab and cucumber linguine is highly recommended, as is "hauntingly sharp" lamb khoresh with rhubarb.

This splendid cookbook/memoir should be obligatory holiday kit for anyone heading to the coast.

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