Christian Dior Haute Couture spring/summer 2014
While desperately trying to be modern, Raf Simons elucidated his mantra as never before
How can you make haute couture modern? It's a puzzle many designers have wrestled with. But few are as convincing as Raf Simons in tackling the issue head-on. Why? Because haute couture, with its painstaking, handworked craft, attracts relatively few fashion modernists these days. It's much easier - and arguably more relevant - to be forward-thinking and progressive with ready-to-wear, considering you can actually sell the damn stuff, unlike haute couture, whose five-figure price-tags attract fewer and fewer clients.
That's one of the things that makes Raf Simons' Dior couture collections special. He's desperately trying to be modern. Sometimes, he's stumbled. But in his spring/summer 2014 couture collection, he elucidated his mantra as never before.
This was go-faster couture. He shoved hand-beaded trainers on a couple of his models to underline the point, but they weren't needed. The sense of dynamism, of speed, of movement, was worked into ever seam and aeration. There were plenty of those, dresses sliced open with minute windows on the flesh like couture artex, or perhaps like the petals of an especially exotic bloom.
Raf Simons' clothes looked light. They moved effortlessly. There were the vaguest ties to Dior's past - the eighteenth century backs reminded one of Cecil Beaton's declaration that Dior was fashion's Watteau, and the workmanship - minute embroideries, all that intricate cutting, every fragment sewn by hand - can only be achieved by a house of the magnitude of Dior. But the overall impression was of something fresh, new, and indeed modern. It was an injection of new life. Simons' spring sprung.
Life & Style blogs
Students in the south east of England gain the most weight in their first year
Jennifer Lawrence nude pictures leaked: Reddit removes 'The Fappening' board dedicated to sharing naked pictures of celebrities
A bottle of wine a day is not bad for you and abstaining is worse than drinking, scientist claims
Bulletproof Coffee: is adding butter to your coffee a good way to start the day?
Vogue under fire for 'Big Booty' article
- 1 Scottish independence: Ireland since 1919 is a lesson for Scotland in what a Yes vote means
- 2 Thailand deaths: Pair's bloodied bodies found naked on Koh Tao beach
- 3 Daniele Watts: Django Unchained actress detained by Los Angeles police after being mistaken for a prostitute
- 4 Kanye West stops concert after two fans don't stand up - doesn't realise one is in wheelchair and the other disabled
- 5 QS university world rankings: Imperial College London leapfrogs Oxford to join Cambridge as best British university
£35000 - £50000 per annum + benefits: Ashdown Group: Senior QA Engineer (Agil...
£26000 - £28000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Digital Marketing Executive (SEO, PP...
£40000 - £50000 Per Annum: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: Our retail client ...
£400 - £450 Per Annum possibly more for the right candidate: Clearwater People...