Dolce & Gabbana back in focus with gilded camp and Nineties energy

 

Milan

Sunday’s Marni show, opening the penultimate day of the Milanese shows, was paraded in silence. That wasn’t an intellectual exercise in focus: the power was out, or as the Italian press aides described it: “We have a technical disease.”

There has been something of a technical disease in Milan lately, brands rushing to interact with the internet to sell their wares and broadcast their shows. It’s a rush that sometimes became a scrabble, and often stank of desperation, with the fashion coming second to the live-stream. But this season everything seems to have quietened down. Brands aren’t trumpeting their digital doodads. They’re getting on with the business of making clothes, and most of them seem to be doing very good jobs of it.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are designers who, previously, have been distracted by all that technology, with shows broadcasting backstage antics above the heads of the waiting audience. But they’ve shied away, and put their focus back into the garments. The inspiration for Spring/Summer 2014 was Sicily, again – the invite a picture-postcard of picturesque ruins in the vein of Baron Von Gloeden. You do sometimes wish the boys could branch out more, or at least take their August vacation a little farther afield.

It’s churlish to curl your lip, though, as this season was Dolce&Gabbana on fine form: a mind-boggling barrage of texture and shape, billowing chiffon adorned with Capodimonte-style appliqué flowers or lithographs of more picturesque ruins, alpaca worn like beastly pelts in surreal shades of pea-soup green and blood-red, and gold lace dresses at the end to really gild the lily.

The designers cited Federico Fellini as an inspiration, and there was something of his excess, the baroque fantasy of his Satyricon here. There was also a bit of Fellini’s unintentional campery: giant gold medallions, belts and dresses studded with suspiciously glitzy “antique” coins and shoes with curlicued Ionic columns veered into Carry On territory, while liberal sprinklings of sequins ended up less Caesar than Caesar’s Palace.

Thankfully, Domenico and Stefano also latched onto Fellini’s lasciviousness – albeit subtly, reflected in those signature bombastic Dolce frocks, the best hugging to below the knee with bra straps on show. That took us right back to the early 1990s, when the pair were the young upstarts of an Italian fashion industry at the peak of its influence. This show managed to re-capture some of that old energy.

That’s been the mood of the Milan collections as a whole: buoyant, re-energised, and fun. Saturday night’s Moschino show, celebrating the house’s 30th anniversary, was celebratory verging on Bacchanalian, opening with Eighties catwalk superstars Pat Cleveland and Violetta Sanchez and closing with Gloria Gaynor (yes, her) belting out disco classics. In between was creative director Rosella Jardini’s latest collection, a continuation of the grand Moschino tradition of luxurious parody, wit and humour. Franco Moschino, the labels’s late founder, would be grinning ear to ear.

News
peopleHowards' Way actress, and former mistress of Jeffrey Archer, was 60
Sport
Romelu Lukaku puts pen to paper
sport
News
Robyn Lawley
people
Arts and Entertainment
Unhappy days: Resistance spy turned Nobel prize winner Samuel Beckett
books
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
News
people
Life and Style
Troy Baker and Ashley Johnson voice the show’s heroes
gamingOnce stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover
News
i100
Life and Style
Phones will be able to monitor your health, from blood pressure to heart rate, and even book a doctor’s appointment for you
techCould our smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases via Health Kit and Google Fit?
Travel
Ryan taming: the Celtic Tiger carrier has been trying to improve its image
travelRyanair has turned on the 'charm offensive' but can we learn to love the cut-price carrier again?
News
people
Extras
indybest
Sport
Usain Bolt confirms he will run in both the heats and the finals of the men's relay at the Commonwealth Games
commonwealth games
Life and Style
Slim pickings: Spanx premium denim collection
fashionBillionaire founder of Spanx launches range of jeans that offers 'thigh-trimming construction'
News
Sabina Altynbekova has said she wants to be famous for playing volleyball, not her looks
people
News
i100
Life and Style
tech'World's first man-made leaves' could use photosynthesis to help astronauts breathe
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    SAP Project Manager

    competitive: Progressive Recruitment: SAP PROJECT MANAGER - 3 MONTHS - BERKSHI...

    SAP Project Manager

    competitive: Progressive Recruitment: SAP PROJECT MANAGER - 3 MONTHS - BERKSHI...

    Senior Investment Accounting Change Manager

    £600 - £700 per day + competitive: Orgtel: Senior Investment Accounting Change...

    Microsoft Dynamics AX Functional Consultant

    £65000 - £75000 per annum + benefits: Progressive Recruitment: A rare opportun...

    Day In a Page

    Save the tiger: The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    With only six per cent of the US population of these amazing big cats held in zoos, the Zanesville incident in 2011 was inevitable
    Samuel Beckett's biographer reveals secrets of the writer's time as a French Resistance spy

    How Samuel Beckett became a French Resistance spy

    As this year's Samuel Beckett festival opens in Enniskillen, James Knowlson, recalls how the Irish writer risked his life for liberty and narrowly escaped capture by the Gestapo
    Star Wars Episode VII is being shot on film - and now Kodak is launching a last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Kodak's last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Director J J Abrams and a few digital refuseniks shoot movies on film. Simon Usborne wonders what the fuss is about
    Once stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover

    Acting in video games gets a makeover

    David Crookes meets two of the genre's most popular voices
    Could our smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases via Health Kit and Google Fit?

    Could smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases?

    Health Kit and Google Fit have been described as "the beginning of a health revolution"
    Ryanair has turned on the 'charm offensive' but can we learn to love the cut-price carrier again?

    Can we learn to love Ryanair again?

    Four recent travellers give their verdicts on the carrier's improved customer service
    Billionaire founder of Spanx launches range of jeans that offers

    Spanx launches range of jeans

    The jeans come in two styles, multiple cuts and three washes and will go on sale in the UK in October
    10 best over-ear headphones

    Aural pleasure: 10 best over-ear headphones

    Listen to your favourite tracks with this selection, offering everything from lambskin earmuffs to stainless steel
    Commonwealth Games 2014: David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end

    Commonwealth Games

    David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end
    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 2014: Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings

    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup

    Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings
    Save the tiger: The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The big cats kept in captivity to perform for paying audiences and then, when dead, their bodies used to fortify wine
    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery all included in top 50 hidden spots in the UK

    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery

    Introducing the top 50 hidden spots in Britain
    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    How a disease that has claimed fewer than 2,000 victims in its history has earned a place in the darkest corner of the public's imagination
    Chris Pratt: From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    He was homeless in Hawaii when he got his big break. Now the comic actor Chris Pratt is Hollywood's new favourite action star
    How live cinema screenings can boost arts audiences

    How live cinema screenings can boost arts audiences

    Broadcasting plays and exhibitions to cinemas is a sure-fire box office smash