Milan Fashion Week: Business as usual at Jil Sander despite loss of leader while Bottega Veneta separates the women from the girls

Outerwear silhouettes are strong and well definedwhile shift dresses are folded, draped and twisted close to the body

The sun made an appearance in Milan today, as Italy welcomed a new prime minister, the youngest in its history, into office. In politics as in fashion, the effects of changes at the top can ripple to the furthest shores, or they can seem to make little difference as business continues as normal.

The Jil Sander regime is currently without a figurehead – the eponymous designer left the label she founded in October, citing undisclosed personal reasons, the third time she has done so. The collection presented by the design team today was no less polished for not having a single leader and certainly wasn't lacking the Sander signatures. Literal reference to the blend of ideas that is inevitable when such a structure is in place could be read in to the melange wool and cashmere blends that opened the collection as outerwear with hidden buttons and high necks – protective in a way – in muted, dusky pastels. The colour palette was enlivened here and there thanks to shades of rose, mustard, apricot and spearmint. The silhouette for outerwear was strong and well defined with dropped shoulders and jackets structured away from the body: coats were long and cocoon-like, jackets swingy and cropped to the hip. Casual tailored trousers were cropped too, better to see flatform-soled lace-ups striped with off shades of yellow and blue leather and snake and wedge heeled boots that had a hiking attitude, if none of the grip necessary for that outdoor pursuit.

Shift dresses were folded, draped and twisted close to the body, bands of fabrics cross-sectioning jersey and silk. The lightweight fabrics clinging to the body here and there, while such contortions adding no bulk. A sense of tranquility was the design team's goal, and indeed there was a serenity and simplicity to the collection that belied the construction beneath. While this will no doubt be seen as a job well done, a label inevitably suffers without a leader and it will be interesting to see who will next take the helm at Jil Sander, or if she herself will ever be persuaded to return for another round.

  Abstracted stripes and optical patterns bisect wool crepe and jersey dresses at Bottega Veneta Abstracted stripes and optical patterns bisect wool crepe and jersey dresses at Bottega Veneta

The creative director of Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier, is not the headline grabbing sort – fitting really as neither is that label's aesthetic. These are clothes for the stealthily wealthy, women with confidence enough to show restraint where symbols of wealth are concerned. Women that is, not girls, for though Maier's designs are feminine – beautifully so – they simply aren't girlish.

Abstracted stripes and optical patterns bisected wool crepe and jersey dresses - some pleated, some slit, others twisted and tucked. The silhouette remained close to the body and a pale palette was fortified by traditionally autumnal shades of forest green, aubergine and a rich oxblood. A classical collection, there were hints of experimentation too: a grey wool school marm skirt was spray-painted and embroidered to create a trompe l'oiel impression of more pleats. “The collection is about movement, energy and focus,” said Maier. “We are always thinking about what clothes should do for a woman and her personal experience of them.” Those fortunate enough to get up close and personal with Maier's designs will no doubt appreciate that sentiment.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
SPONSORED FEATURES
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: UX Consultant

    £35000 - £45000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: You will be working with a 8 st...

    Recruitment Genius: Part-time Editor

    £8000 - £12000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A unique opportunity has arisen ...

    Recruitment Genius: Field Sales Executive

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: An exceptional opportunity has arisen for a pa...

    Recruitment Genius: Kitchen and Bathroom Installers

    £18000 - £20000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This provider of designer kitch...

    Day In a Page

    Orthorexia nervosa: How becoming obsessed with healthy eating can lead to malnutrition

    Orthorexia nervosa

    How becoming obsessed with healthy eating can lead to malnutrition
    Lady Chatterley is not obscene, says TV director

    Lady Chatterley’s Lover

    Director Jed Mercurio on why DH Lawrence's novel 'is not an obscene story'
    Farmers in tropical forests are training ants to kill off bigger pests

    Set a pest to catch a pest

    Farmers in tropical forests are training ants to kill off bigger pests
    Mexico: A culture that celebrates darkness as an essential part of life

    The dark side of Mexico

    A culture that celebrates darkness as an essential part of life
    Being sexually assaulted was not your fault, Chrissie Hynde. Don't tell other victims it was theirs

    Being sexually assaulted was not your fault, Chrissie Hynde

    Please don't tell other victims it was theirs
    A nap a day could save your life - and here's why

    A nap a day could save your life

    A midday nap is 'associated with reduced blood pressure'
    If men are so obsessed by sex, why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?

    If men are so obsessed by sex...

    ...why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?
    The comedy titans of Avalon on their attempt to save BBC3

    Jon Thoday and Richard Allen-Turner

    The comedy titans of Avalon on their attempt to save BBC3
    The bathing machine is back... but with a difference

    Rolling in the deep

    The bathing machine is back but with a difference
    Part-privatised tests, new age limits, driverless cars: Tories plot motoring revolution

    Conservatives plot a motoring revolution

    Draft report reveals biggest reform to regulations since driving test introduced in 1935
    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation: Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places

    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation

    Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places
    House of Lords: Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled

    The honours that shame Britain

    Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled
    When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race

    'When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race'

    Why are black men living the stereotypes and why are we letting them get away with it?
    International Tap Festival: Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic

    International Tap Festival comes to the UK

    Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic
    War with Isis: Is Turkey's buffer zone in Syria a matter of self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Turkey's buffer zone in Syria: self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Ankara accused of exacerbating racial division by allowing Turkmen minority to cross the border