Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more
Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more
Sunday's Chloe show-notes referenced a “sweatshirt attitude” Which sounds like sound bite-y garbage, but somehow chimes true as we slide into the home stretch of the Parisian collections, and the close of the autumn/winter 2014 season as a whole. At this point, you don't want clothes that try hard, that push and pull and pinch. You want something comfortable, something cosy. You can even turn a blind eye to something a bit lazy, if it's well done.
Stella McCartney doesn't do fashion well. You get the feeling she isn't sure of her step. But she does understand ease: a slouchy sweater, a t-shirt dress, a flat shoe. Ease can easily become sloppy, or frumpy, but this season she kept the tension of her threads just right.
Tension. That's a good word to describe Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent shows, where the audience awaits, seemingly endlessly, for him to deliver on the promise of his much-feted appointment. While the house's male wares, inspired by the London dive-bars, bands and boys Slimane so idolises, has riffed successfully on menswear's key notes, his womenswear consistently hits a bum note. How sad to compare and contrast with Raf Simons, whose path at Dior - while hardly easy or rose strewn - seems far less convoluted. Tortured, even. His path also seems to lead us somewhere new.
For this collection Slimane issued his audience with a pamphlet of work by John Baldessari, an artist whose pieces deal with found and appropriated images. That chimes with contemporary fashion's filching and cross-referencing. But it also means we don't see anything new.
Slimane offered a trio of "couture" dresses in a limited and numbered edition of ten. They were allegedly unique. However the majority of the show was composed of archetypal sixties-infused shifts, A-line coats, Mary Jane shoes and kinky boots.
In pictures: Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2014
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They register well in two dimensions. Viewing them online, you get the Mod message immediately. As a merchandising exercise, they will prettily clutter up Saint Laurent's aggressively rebranded stores across the world. They were, out of context, inoffensive. However, in their context as a closing statement on the sixth day of the Paris collections - where the greatest designers in the world parade their wares - one word springs to mind. Lazy.
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