Paris Fashion Week: Stella McCartney avoids pitfalls of getting too tense

 

Paris

Sunday's Chloe show-notes referenced a “sweatshirt attitude” Which sounds like sound bite-y garbage, but somehow chimes true as we slide into the home stretch of the Parisian collections, and the close of the autumn/winter 2014 season as a whole. At this point, you don't want clothes that try hard, that push and pull and pinch. You want something comfortable, something cosy. You can even turn a blind eye to something a bit lazy, if it's well done.

Stella McCartney doesn't do fashion well. You get the feeling she isn't sure of her step. But she does understand ease: a slouchy sweater, a t-shirt dress, a flat shoe. Ease can easily become sloppy, or frumpy, but this season she kept the tension of her threads just right.

Tension. That's a good word to describe Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent shows, where the audience awaits, seemingly endlessly, for him to deliver on the promise of his much-feted appointment. While the house's male wares, inspired by the London dive-bars, bands and boys Slimane so idolises, has riffed successfully on menswear's key notes, his womenswear consistently hits a bum note. How sad to compare and contrast with Raf Simons, whose path at Dior - while hardly easy or rose strewn - seems far less convoluted. Tortured, even. His path also seems to lead us somewhere new.

 

For this collection Slimane issued his audience with a pamphlet of work by John Baldessari, an artist whose pieces deal with found and appropriated images. That chimes with contemporary fashion's filching and cross-referencing. But it also means we don't see anything new.

Slimane offered a trio of "couture" dresses in a limited and numbered edition of ten. They were allegedly unique. However the majority of the show was composed of archetypal sixties-infused shifts, A-line coats, Mary Jane shoes and kinky boots.

They register well in two dimensions. Viewing them online, you get the Mod message immediately. As a merchandising exercise, they will prettily clutter up Saint Laurent's aggressively rebranded stores across the world. They were, out of context, inoffensive. However, in their context as a closing statement on the sixth day of the Paris collections - where the greatest designers in the world parade their wares - one word springs to mind. Lazy.

News
peoplePaper attempts to defend itself
Voices
voicesWe desperately need men to be feminists too
Life and Style
food + drink
Arts and Entertainment
British actor Idris Elba is also a DJ and rapper who played Ibiza last summer
film
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Account Executive/Sales Consultant – Permanent – Hertfordshire - £16-£20k

    £16500 - £20000 Per Annum: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: We are currently r...

    KS2 PPA Teacher needed (Mat Cover)- Worthing!

    £100 - £125 per day: Randstad Education Crawley: KS2 PPA Teacher currently nee...

    IT Systems Manager

    £40000 - £45000 per annum + pension, healthcare,25 days: Ashdown Group: An est...

    IT Application Support Engineer - Immediate Start

    £28000 per annum: Ashdown Group: IT Software Application Support Analyst - Imm...

    Day In a Page

    Secret politics of the weekly shop

    The politics of the weekly shop

    New app reveals political leanings of food companies
    Beam me up, Scottie!

    Beam me up, Scottie!

    Celebrity Trekkies from Alex Salmond to Barack Obama
    Beware Wet Paint: The ICA's latest ambitious exhibition

    Beware Wet Paint

    The ICA's latest ambitious exhibition
    Pink Floyd have produced some of rock's greatest ever album covers

    Pink Floyd have produced some of rock's greatest ever album covers

    Can 'The Endless River' carry on the tradition?
    Sanctuary for the suicidal

    Sanctuary for the suicidal

    One mother's story of how London charity Maytree helped her son with his depression
    A roller-coaster tale from the 'voice of a generation'

    Not That Kind of Girl:

    A roller-coaster tale from 'voice of a generation' Lena Dunham
    London is not bedlam or a cradle of vice. In fact it, as much as anywhere, deserves independence

    London is not bedlam or a cradle of vice

    In fact it, as much as anywhere, deserves independence
    Vivienne Westwood 'didn’t want' relationship with Malcolm McLaren

    Vivienne Westwood 'didn’t want' relationship with McLaren

    Designer 'felt pressured' into going out with Sex Pistols manager
    Jourdan Dunn: Model mother

    Model mother

    Jordan Dunn became one of the best-paid models in the world
    Apple still coolest brand – despite U2 PR disaster

    Apple still the coolest brand

    Despite PR disaster of free U2 album
    Scottish referendum: The Yes vote was the love that dared speak its name, but it was not to be

    Despite the result, this is the end of the status quo

    Boyd Tonkin on the fall-out from the Scottish referendum
    Manolo Blahnik: The high priest of heels talks flats, Englishness, and why he loves Mary Beard

    Manolo Blahnik: Flats, Englishness, and Mary Beard

    The shoe designer who has been dubbed 'the patron saint of the stiletto'
    The Beatles biographer reveals exclusive original manuscripts of some of the best pop songs ever written

    Scrambled eggs and LSD

    Behind The Beatles' lyrics - thanks to Hunter Davis's original manuscript copies
    'Normcore' fashion: Blending in is the new standing out in latest catwalk non-trend

    'Normcore': Blending in is the new standing out

    Just when fashion was in grave danger of running out of trends, it only went and invented the non-trend. Rebecca Gonsalves investigates
    Dance’s new leading ladies fight back: How female vocalists are now writing their own hits

    New leading ladies of dance fight back

    How female vocalists are now writing their own hits