Anthony Rose: 'The Wines of Spain awards confirmed the extraordinary variety coming out of Spain'


After Nacho Manzano's divine beetroot gazpacho soup at Ibérica in Marylebone, I was excited to see what David Muñoz, the chef of two-Michelin star DiverXO in Madrid, could do. Muñoz was invited as Manzano's guest to cook dinner at the new Ibérica in Canary Wharf.

In the hands of anyone less talented, a dish like oxtail sandwich with eel, jalapenos and finger lime, or potsticker Shanghai of pitu Caleya with sea urchin, chipotle and shiitake, might seem pretentious.

But no, his nine Asian-influenced dishes represented the best of modern Spain's culinary re-interpretation of tradition. In this way, a traditional Asturias potsticker was transformed into a visually imaginative and delicious combination. In tandem with this typically modernising trend, new Spanish cooking is now able to reply on vastly improved wines to accompany the variety of dishes we're seeing in the best new tapas bars.

The recent Wines of Spain awards confirmed the extraordinary variety now coming out of Spain. Imaginative blends like the peaches-and-cream garnacha blanca, viognier and roussane in the 2011 La Báscula, Catalan Eagle from Terra Alta, around £11, Highbury Vintners (020-7226 1347), Noel Young, Cambridge (01223 566744), mingle with international-influenced combinations in the white, Burgundy-like 2011 Raimat Xarel-lo-Chardonnay, £10, Noel Young.

Traditional stonefruity whites such as the 2011 Godello Pazos del Rey, Monterrei, £9.99, M&S, sit happily alongside the citrus-etched fruit in the 2011 Albariño Fillaboa, Rias Baixas, around £14.99, Amps Fine Wines, Oundle (01832 273502), The Ox House, Glos (01451 860650).

We're equally spoilt for reds. Take, for instance, the youthful berry fruit of the 2011 Gran Vega Garnacha from Bodegas Borsão in Campo de Borja, £4.99,, or the spicy mazuelo and shiraz blend supported by chocolatey oak in the 2011 Toronegro from Extremadura, £6.99, The Co-op. Or the rustic 2011 Bodegas Esteban Martin Vinem Garnacha, from Carinena, £7.74, George Hill of Loughborough (01509 212717) and the berry fruit in the 2011 Pazo das Tapias Alma de Tinto, Monterrei, £9.99, Great Western Wine, Bath (01225 322810).

Alvaro Palacios' 2010 the Petalos, Bierzo, Descendientes de J Palacios, around £17.45, Roberson (020-7371 2121), Majestic, is a red combining a black-cherry intensity with oak and liquorice spice. All mulberry fruit underpinned by spicy oak, the Wines of Spain awards winner was the 2009 Vina Pedrosa Crianza, Bodegas Perez Pascuas, Ribera del Duero, £23.85, Loki Wines, Birmingham (0121 212 9440). For the David Muñoz menu and pictures, please see

Suggested Topics
general electionThis quiz matches undecided voters with the best party for them
Arts and Entertainment
Keira Knightley and Matthew Macfadyen starred in the big screen adaptation of Austen's novel in 2005
tvStar says studios are forcing actors to get buff for period roles
Prince William and his wife Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge show their newly-born daughter, their second child, to the media outside the Lindo Wing at St Mary's Hospital in central London, on 2 May 2015.
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Ashdown Group: Technical IT Manager - North London - Growing business

    £40000 - £50000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A growing business that has been ope...

    Recruitment Genius: Technical Supervisor

    £24800 - £29000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: As one of London's leading Muse...

    Recruitment Genius: Centre Manager

    £14000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Guru Careers: Accountant

    £28 - 45k (DOE): Guru Careers: An Accountant is needed to take control of the ...

    Day In a Page

    Fishing for votes with Nigel Farage: The Ukip leader shows how he can work an audience as he casts his line to the disaffected of Grimsby

    Fishing is on Nigel Farage's mind

    Ukip leader casts a line to the disaffected
    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East? It's amazing they don't all hit each other

    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East?

    Robert Fisk untangles the countries and factions
    China's influence on fashion: At the top of the game both creatively and commercially

    China's influence on fashion

    At the top of the game both creatively and commercially
    Lord O’Donnell: Former cabinet secretary on the election and life away from the levers of power

    The man known as GOD has a reputation for getting the job done

    Lord O'Donnell's three principles of rule
    Rainbow shades: It's all bright on the night

    Rainbow shades

    It's all bright on the night
    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power
    Rare and exclusive video shows the horrific price paid by activists for challenging the rule of jihadist extremists in Syria

    The price to be paid for challenging the rule of extremists

    A revolution now 'consuming its own children'
    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    300 players take part in Watch the Skies! board game in London
    'Nymphomaniac' actress reveals what it was really like to star in one of the most explicit films ever

    Charlotte Gainsbourg on 'Nymphomaniac'

    Starring in one of the most explicit films ever
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers

    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi

    The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers
    Vince Cable interview: Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'

    Vince Cable exclusive interview

    Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'
    Iwan Rheon interview: Game of Thrones star returns to his Welsh roots to record debut album

    Iwan Rheon is returning to his Welsh roots

    Rheon is best known for his role as the Bastard of Bolton. It's gruelling playing a sadistic torturer, he tells Craig McLean, but it hasn't stopped him recording an album of Welsh psychedelia
    Morne Hardenberg interview: Cameraman for BBC's upcoming show Shark on filming the ocean's most dangerous predator

    It's time for my close-up

    Meet the man who films great whites for a living
    Increasing numbers of homeless people in America keep their mobile phones on the streets

    Homeless people keep mobile phones

    A homeless person with a smartphone is a common sight in the US. And that's creating a network where the 'hobo' community can share information - and fight stigma - like never before