Anthony Rose: 'There's nothing cheap in London's poshest new wine emporium'

After the last tasting at which my mother refused to spit anything out, I was grateful for the fact that this wasn't an option at London's poshest new wine emporium, Hedonism Wines. Not so much as a sniff, in fact, of the fabled 1811 Yquem comet vintage at £97k or the grandiose Penfolds Ampoule at £120k. However, Tatiana Fokina, the Mayfair shop manager, was keen to impress on us that 500 of their 4,500 lines, including 1,000 spirits, cost less than £30.

I was actually more tempted by the 25ml serves from the four enomatic machines, whose prices vary from a very reasonable £1.70 a pop for a six puttonyos Tokaji to £26.50 for a glass of 2001 Yquem. Two more enomatics were due in for champagne, but I thought it better not to mention this as I prised my mother away from the 27-litre bottle of Tuscany's Flaccianello at £4,123.70.

To lure her away from this two-storey temple to wine, I observed, "There's nothing cheap in this place", to which she instantly retorted, "Except for the owner's T-shirt". Oblivious to this slight on his designer polo shirt, Evgeny Chichvarkin, the owner, and founder of Russia's mobile phone retailer, Evroset, beamed. And why not? Value notwithstanding, the fine and the rare, chosen by ex-Harrods buyer Alistair Viner, are joined by impressive large format bottles, which sit like miniature ships on display at Greenwich Maritime Museum.

In the same week, Harrods' new buyer, Jo Ahearne MW, was putting on a tasting of a fascinatingly quirky range of rosés and champagnes (on special offer until 16 September). Previously at Marks & Spencer, here Ms Ahearne can indulge her passion for parcels of interesting wines too small for M&S.

Among the rosés, I enjoyed the herby 2011 Argiolas Serra Lori Rosé, £11.50, a grenache-based pink from Sardinia with a cherryish-fruit quality and powerful Tavel-like kick. The 2011 Leth Classik Rosé, £15.95, an Austrian rosé made from the zweigelt grape, was delicious for its refreshing rosehip and red-berry qualities, while back in Italy, the 2011 Ca Lojera Monte della Guardia, £17.50, from the Veneto, was succulently strawberryish and elegantly dry.

From an eclectic selection of sparkling wines, I found the La Farra Prosecco Valdobbiadene, £14.95, refreshingly pear-flavoured and satisfyingly dry and drooled over an extraordinary cava, the 2008 Colet Navazos Extra Brut, £25.95, which derives its complex mousse and nutty dryness from an unorthodox dosage of fino sherry. I also loved the deliciously biscuity, champagne-like Bailly Crément de Bourgogne Pinot Noir Brut, £17.50 and the superb, berry-fruit intensity of England's own Coates & Seely Brut Rosé, £37.95. Ah, to be back in the real world of wine.

Suggested Topics
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Ashdown Group: Technical IT Manager - North London - Growing business

    £40000 - £50000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A growing business that has been ope...

    Recruitment Genius: Technical Supervisor

    £24800 - £29000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: As one of London's leading Muse...

    Recruitment Genius: Centre Manager

    £14000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Guru Careers: Accountant

    £28 - 45k (DOE): Guru Careers: An Accountant is needed to take control of the ...

    Day In a Page

    Fishing for votes with Nigel Farage: The Ukip leader shows how he can work an audience as he casts his line to the disaffected of Grimsby

    Fishing is on Nigel Farage's mind

    Ukip leader casts a line to the disaffected
    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East? It's amazing they don't all hit each other

    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East?

    Robert Fisk untangles the countries and factions
    China's influence on fashion: At the top of the game both creatively and commercially

    China's influence on fashion

    At the top of the game both creatively and commercially
    Lord O’Donnell: Former cabinet secretary on the election and life away from the levers of power

    The man known as GOD has a reputation for getting the job done

    Lord O'Donnell's three principles of rule
    Rainbow shades: It's all bright on the night

    Rainbow shades

    It's all bright on the night
    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power
    Rare and exclusive video shows the horrific price paid by activists for challenging the rule of jihadist extremists in Syria

    The price to be paid for challenging the rule of extremists

    A revolution now 'consuming its own children'
    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    300 players take part in Watch the Skies! board game in London
    'Nymphomaniac' actress reveals what it was really like to star in one of the most explicit films ever

    Charlotte Gainsbourg on 'Nymphomaniac'

    Starring in one of the most explicit films ever
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers

    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi

    The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers
    Vince Cable interview: Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'

    Vince Cable exclusive interview

    Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'
    Iwan Rheon interview: Game of Thrones star returns to his Welsh roots to record debut album

    Iwan Rheon is returning to his Welsh roots

    Rheon is best known for his role as the Bastard of Bolton. It's gruelling playing a sadistic torturer, he tells Craig McLean, but it hasn't stopped him recording an album of Welsh psychedelia
    Morne Hardenberg interview: Cameraman for BBC's upcoming show Shark on filming the ocean's most dangerous predator

    It's time for my close-up

    Meet the man who films great whites for a living
    Increasing numbers of homeless people in America keep their mobile phones on the streets

    Homeless people keep mobile phones

    A homeless person with a smartphone is a common sight in the US. And that's creating a network where the 'hobo' community can share information - and fight stigma - like never before