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Bites: Books and cooks

Saturday 13 November 1999 00:00 GMT
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Clarke's 124 Kensington Church Street, London W8 (0171-221 9225). Mon-Fri lunch and dinner, Sat dinner . Sally Clarke's Book (Macmillan, £25) captures the strict regard for seasons, produce, precision and unflashy but vivid assemblies that distinguish Sally Clarke's style of cooking. Recipes such as globe artichokes, pink grapefruit and black olive dressing are simple and delicious. Seasonal dishes in the restaurant might be venison fillet with chestnut and rosemary glaze, followed by cinnamon-baked pear, quince and prunes with orange ice cream and almond biscotti. Four-course dinner is £44, including service, coffee and truffle.

Clarke's 124 Kensington Church Street, London W8 (0171-221 9225). Mon-Fri lunch and dinner, Sat dinner . Sally Clarke's Book (Macmillan, £25) captures the strict regard for seasons, produce, precision and unflashy but vivid assemblies that distinguish Sally Clarke's style of cooking. Recipes such as globe artichokes, pink grapefruit and black olive dressing are simple and delicious. Seasonal dishes in the restaurant might be venison fillet with chestnut and rosemary glaze, followed by cinnamon-baked pear, quince and prunes with orange ice cream and almond biscotti. Four-course dinner is £44, including service, coffee and truffle.

Rhodes & Co, 3-15 Rose Street, Edinburgh (0131-220 9190). Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch. Adjacent to Jenners, Gary Rhodes' new brasserie serves, for example, steak and kidney sausages with mash and onion gravy, and warm whisky rice pudding and raspberries, for around £20 for three courses. It's not all trad British, though, with salt and peppered duck breast with spicy plums, and papperdelle noodles with walnuts, parsley and gorgonzola showing wider influences. His New British Classics (see opposite) is a thumping great production (and record of BBC2 series) from a passionate and inspired tub-thumper for British food.

Richard Corrigan at the Lindsay House, 21 Romilly Street, London W1 (0171-439 0450). Mon-Fri lunch and dinner, Sat dinner. The prodigiously gifted Irish chef's The Richard Corrigan Cookbook is full of his characteristically complex, cheffy, meaty, earthy, powerful recipes such as pumpkin gnocchi with langoustines; saddle of rabbit with black pudding, roast vegetable and mushroom juice; mallard with pineapple and pak choi. A unique source of inspiration. There's still more to discover on the restaurant menu, such as leek and tarragon with game consommé; suckling pig; wild salmon wrapped in lardo with salsify and fennel emulsion. Lunch is £23 for three courses, dinner £42.

The Sugar Club, 21 Warwick Street, London W1 (0171-437 7776) Daily lunch and dinner. New Zealand chef Peter Gordon's much-admired first volume The Sugar Club Cookbook documents the dishes that have earned him a reputation, for want of a better word, for fusion cooking. Try signature dishes such as grilled scallops with sweet chilli sauce and crÿme fraîche, kangaroo salad with coriander, mint, peanuts and lime-chilli dressing, and the irresistible creamy mustard mash for a £35-plus dinner in the restaurant. The follow-up, new Cook At Home With Peter Gordon includes a recipe for old Molly Gordon's caramel shortbread (which you'll find among the petits fours in the restaurant).

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