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Bites: Leeds

Caroline Stacey
Wednesday 04 October 2000 00:00 BST
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Apart from the big four: Leodis, Brasserie Forty Four, Pool Court at 42 and Rascasse sans Simon Gueller, all in warehouse conversions near the river, here are Leeds' style leaders.

Apart from the big four: Leodis, Brasserie Forty Four, Pool Court at 42 and Rascasse sans Simon Gueller, all in warehouse conversions near the river, here are Leeds' style leaders.

Art's Cafe, 42 Call Lane (0113 243 8243). Mon-Sat 11am-10.30pm, Sun 12-10.30pm.

One of the first to introduce an arty element to the Exchange Quarter that's full of funky bars and eateries. It's a mellow, yellow place with bright paintings, bare brown tables, reasonable prices and Mediterranean leanings. There's stir-fry chilli squid and chorizo or smoked chicken Caesar salad for £4 each; chicken livers with parmesan polenta and red onion marmalade (£7.50), lamb chump with parsley mash (£9) and always a couple of interesting veggie dishes. At lunchtime a £5 plate loaded with sort of tapasy selections makes an enticing deal.

Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant, Briggate (0113 204 8000). Mon-Wed, Sun lunch, Thur-Sat lunch and dinner.

There's a great view across the city's roofs, inside you're looking at lunching-lady territory. But this is serious food, as it should be for it's a lot to pay for lunch à la carte: Puy lentil and rabbit soup (£4.50); baked hake with chorizo, patatas bravas and smoked prawn aioli (£13). Prix fixe is £13 for two courses, £16 for three. Dinner, Thursday to Saturday, is £18.

Malmaison Hotel, Sovereign Quay, Sovereign Street (0113 398 1000). Daily lunch and dinner.

The most southerly branch of the chic metropolitan hotel chain occupies an ex-bus depot. Through the art nouveau entrance is a smart, rather secluded basement bistro and envelopingly comfy bar cum lounge. Brasserie food hits the right notes and prices: eggs benedict (£4.95), duck foie gras parfait (£6.95); salmon fishcake with parsley sauce and spinach (£8.95) or steak garni (£13.95). Fast lunch is £9.95 for two courses, prix fixe dinner £10.95.

> Teatro, The Quays, Concordia Street (0113 243 6699). Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun brunch.

Sleek, northern newcomer, opened by Lee Chapman and Leslie Ash, aims to attract the city's celebs to a members' club and restaurant for all, as Teatro in London does. It's underneath newly built loft-like apartments on the river with an outdoor deck which has the makings of a top Sunday brunch spot. The modish menu sounds good: Whitby cod with cassoulet and persillade, lamb shank with cherry tomato cous cous; iced nougat glacé with hot choc sauce or spotted dick. £20-£30 for three courses, £12.50 for two from the prix fixe lunch and early dinner menu.

The Wardrobe, St Peter's Buildings, St Peter's Square (0113 383 8800). Mon-Sat 12-12.

The name comes because it's next to the West Yorkshire Playhouse. The vibe comes from being the north's biggest jazz venue cum comedy club, bar, café and diner. Food's not bad, nor are prices. A pre-theatre menu's £9.50 for two courses such as roast leeks wrapped in Parma ham, then rib-eye steak with pesto mash or tuna steak with new potato salad and mango salsa.

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