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British champagne brands have shown astonishing quality this autumn

Hampshire-based Hambledon launched its first Première Cuvée in May and it trumped all the serious sparkling wines at Berrys' recent tasting for its toasty aromas and rich, complex mousse

Anthony Rose
Friday 06 November 2015 23:41 GMT
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Since Nyetimber started the British bubble revolution back in the mid-1980s, the planting of the champagne grapes – chardonnay and pinot noir – has been so successful that the industry is predicted to double production over the next few years. If you're a regular reader, you'll know that, Nyetimber apart, names such as Ridgeview, Gusbourne, Wiston, Hush Heath, Camel Valley and Coates & Seely have distinguished themselves so consistently that they they've become usual suspects.

What's been exciting this autumn is the number of newer brands showing astonishing quality given the youth both of their vineyards and their wine-making projects. Hampshire-based Hambledon launched its first Première Cuvée, £42, Berry Bros, in May and it trumped all the serious sparkling wines at Berrys' recent tasting for its toasty aromas and rich, complex mousse. Also from Hampshire, Corinne Seeley's first release, a pure chardonnay 2011 Exton Park Blanc de Blancs, £39.95, extonparkwines.com, shows brioche notes and apple bite.

Waitrose, which accounts for three in five bottles of English wine sold in supermarkets, brought out its own sparkling wine last year, made from grapes grown on its Leckford Farm. The second vintage, the 2012 Leckford Estate Brut, £29.99, is an impressive fizz, with a swirl of malty aromas and beautifully creamy mousse ending with a tangy nuttiness. Not new, but much improved, the Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut, £22, Sainsbury's, is rich and biscuity with a delightful orchard-apple mousse. Watch this space for wine legend Steven Spurrier's forthcoming Bride Valley release.

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