Crash course: Food fads, chef David Chang and how to make perfect mac 'n' cheese
Saturday 04 May 2013
What we ate: From pig's trotters to uncooked Peruvian fish
1991: The gastropub
Dramatically altering the traditional boozer, "original gastropub", the Eagle, in Clerkenwell, opened in '91. Many followed
1994: Nose-to-tail eating
The trend for eating an entire animal's innards and appendages emerged with St John opening in Smithfield – pig's trotters, anyone?
2007: Craft beer
Social media meant food and drink trends could catch on quickly. Observe the rise of US- inspired microbrewries and craft beers all over the UK
Appetites for all things vintage led to the revival of that most ancient of breads, sourdough. Mark's Bread in Bristol led the way
2009: Small plates
Mezze, tapas, antipasti, snacks: different languages, same tiny plates. Russell Norman opened Polpo and fuelled the trend
2010: Food trucks
The humble burger van has taken on a whole new level of prestige with the rise of hipster sliders and the gourmet food truck
Noma's head chef René Redzepi forages a good deal of his food. Next, a wave of chefs took to the woods to find some wild ingredients
2012: Trendy chicken
Fried chicken takeaways and Nando's are everywhere. It was only a matter of time before the foodies caught on
2012: Raw food
First there was Soho's Ceviche, specialising in citrus-marinated uncooked fish. Now keeping whole meals raw is all the rage
Profile: Chef David Chang
From his base in New York, epicentre of global hip-food culture, David Chang is credited with triggering what the New York Times called a "gastronomic youthquake". It could better be described as a decade-long shift in tectonic dinner plates still changing the way we eat.
The Korean-American cook trained under top chefs in Japan and New York before rejecting fine dining and opening the Momofuku Noodle Bar in Manhattan in 2004. With no reservations, no fuss, mouth-watering pork buns and the best ramen noodles outside Tokyo, it took the city by storm.
The Chang empire now includes a chain of milk bars and outposts in Sydney and Toronto, as well as Lucky Peach, a food journal made with arty publishers McSweeney's.
He has also inspired a new generation of hip restaurateurs in the UK including, among others, Russell Norman, the MEATliquor boys and a burgeoning ramen scene. Like it or not, David Chang helped make food the new rock'n'roll.
How to make: Mac 'n' cheese
Variations on the classic dish have been showing up on the menus of hip restaurants lately, such as Spuntino's in central London. Its head chef Rachel O'Sullivan shares her take on the mac'n'cheese
Cook 250g macaroni pasta in boiling water until al dente. Drain, then soak in 1 cup milk, 2 cups double cream, 1 cup Parmesan, 1 cup mozzarella and a tablespoon of mustard. Mix and leave for a few hours.
In a medium-sized pan braise two diced leeks with salt, pepper and 6 garlic bulbs; add the soaking pasta. Add 175g grated fontina, then mix.
Transfer the pasta mix to a baking dish and cover with 100g breadcrumbs mixed with Parmesan. Bake in oven for 15 minutes until golden brown and bubbling.
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