Crash course: Food fads, chef David Chang and how to make perfect mac 'n' cheese

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

 

What we ate: From pig's trotters to uncooked Peruvian fish

1991: The gastropub

Dramatically altering the traditional boozer, "original gastropub", the Eagle, in Clerkenwell, opened in '91. Many followed

1994: Nose-to-tail eating

The trend for eating an entire animal's innards and appendages emerged with St John opening in Smithfield – pig's trotters, anyone?

2007: Craft beer

Social media meant food and drink trends could catch on quickly. Observe the rise of US- inspired microbrewries and craft beers all over the UK

2009: Sourdough

Appetites for all things vintage led to the revival of that most ancient of breads, sourdough. Mark's Bread in Bristol led the way

2009: Small plates

Mezze, tapas, antipasti, snacks: different languages, same tiny plates. Russell Norman opened Polpo and fuelled the trend

2010: Food trucks

The humble burger van has taken on a whole new level of prestige with the rise of hipster sliders and the gourmet food truck

2010: Foraging

Noma's head chef René Redzepi forages a good deal of his food. Next, a wave of chefs took to the woods to find some wild ingredients

2012: Trendy chicken

Fried chicken takeaways and Nando's are everywhere. It was only a matter of time before the foodies caught on

2012: Raw food

First there was Soho's Ceviche, specialising in citrus-marinated uncooked fish. Now keeping whole meals raw is all the rage

Profile: Chef David Chang

From his base in New York, epicentre of global hip-food culture, David Chang is credited with triggering what the New York Times called a "gastronomic youthquake". It could better be described as a decade-long shift in tectonic dinner plates still changing the way we eat.

The Korean-American cook trained under top chefs in Japan and New York before rejecting fine dining and opening the Momofuku Noodle Bar in Manhattan in 2004. With no reservations, no fuss, mouth-watering pork buns and the best ramen noodles outside Tokyo, it took the city by storm.

The Chang empire now includes a chain of milk bars and outposts in Sydney and Toronto, as well as Lucky Peach, a food journal made with arty publishers McSweeney's.

He has also inspired a new generation of hip restaurateurs in the UK including, among others, Russell Norman, the MEATliquor boys and a burgeoning ramen scene. Like it or not, David Chang helped make food the new rock'n'roll.

Simon Usborne

How to make: Mac 'n' cheese

Variations on the classic dish have been showing up on the menus of hip restaurants lately, such as Spuntino's in central London. Its head chef Rachel O'Sullivan shares her take on the mac'n'cheese

Cook 250g macaroni pasta in boiling water until al dente. Drain, then soak in 1 cup milk, 2 cups double cream, 1 cup Parmesan, 1 cup mozzarella and a tablespoon of mustard. Mix and leave for a few hours.

In a medium-sized pan braise two diced leeks with salt, pepper and 6 garlic bulbs; add the soaking pasta. Add 175g grated fontina, then mix.

Transfer the pasta mix to a baking dish and cover with 100g breadcrumbs mixed with Parmesan. Bake in oven for 15 minutes until golden brown and bubbling.

Serves eight.

Suggested Topics
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Bid / Tender Writing Executive

    £24000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: With offices in Manchester, Lon...

    Guru Careers: Marketing Executives / Marketing Communications Consultants

    Competitive (DOE) + Benefits: Guru Careers: We are seeking a number of Marketi...

    Recruitment Genius: Marketing Executive

    £20000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This well established business ...

    Ashdown Group: Management Accountant - Manchester

    £25000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: Management Accountant - Manchester...

    Day In a Page

    Where the spooks get their coffee fix: The busiest Starbucks in the US is also the most secretive

    The secret CIA Starbucks

    The coffee shop is deep inside the agency's forested Virginia compound
    Revealed: How the Establishment closed ranks over fallout from Loch Ness Monster 'sighting'

    How the Establishment closed ranks over fallout from Nessie 'sighting'

    The Natural History Museum's chief scientist was dismissed for declaring he had found the monster
    One million Britons using food banks, according to Trussell Trust

    One million Britons using food banks

    Huge surge in number of families dependent on emergency food aid
    Excavation at Italian cafe to fix rising damp unearths 2,500 years of history in 3,000 amazing objects

    2,500 years of history in 3,000 amazing objects

    Excavation at Italian cafe to fix rising damp unearths trove
    The Hubble Space Telescope's amazing journey, 25 years on

    The Hubble Space Telescope's amazing journey 25 years on

    The space telescope was seen as a costly flop on its first release
    Did Conservative peer Lord Ashcroft quit the House of Lords to become a non-dom?

    Did Lord Ashcroft quit the House of Lords to become a non-dom?

    A document seen by The Independent shows that a week after he resigned from the Lords he sold 350,000 shares in an American company - netting him $11.2m
    Apple's ethnic emojis are being used to make racist comments on social media

    Ethnic emojis used in racist comments

    They were intended to promote harmony, but have achieved the opposite
    Sir Kenneth Branagh interview: 'My bones are in the theatre'

    Sir Kenneth Branagh: 'My bones are in the theatre'

    The actor-turned-director’s new company will stage five plays from October – including works by Shakespeare and John Osborne
    The sloth is now the face (and furry body) of three big advertising campaigns

    The sloth is the face of three ad campaigns

    Priya Elan discovers why slow and sleepy wins the race for brands in need of a new image
    How to run a restaurant: As two newbies discovered, there's more to it than good food

    How to run a restaurant

    As two newbies discovered, there's more to it than good food
    Record Store Day: Remembering an era when buying and selling discs were labours of love

    Record Store Day: The vinyl countdown

    For Lois Pryce, working in a record shop was a dream job - until the bean counters ruined it
    Usher, Mary J Blige and Will.i.am to give free concert as part of the Global Poverty Project

    Mary J Blige and Will.i.am to give free concert

    The concert in Washington is part of the Global Citizen project, which aims to encourage young people to donate to charity
    10 best tote bags

    Accessorise with a stylish shopper this spring: 10 best tote bags

    We find carriers with room for all your essentials (and a bit more)
    Paul Scholes column: I hear Manchester City are closing on Pep Guardiola for next summer – but I'd also love to see Jürgen Klopp managing in England

    Paul Scholes column

    I hear Manchester City are closing on Pep Guardiola for next summer – but I'd also love to see Jürgen Klopp managing in England
    Jessica Ennis-Hill: 'I just want to give it my best shot'

    Jessica Ennis-Hill: 'I just want to give it my best shot'

    The heptathlete has gone from the toast of the nation to being a sleep-deprived mum - but she’s ready to compete again. She just doesn't know how well she'll do...