Crash course: Food fads, chef David Chang and how to make perfect mac 'n' cheese


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What we ate: From pig's trotters to uncooked Peruvian fish

1991: The gastropub

Dramatically altering the traditional boozer, "original gastropub", the Eagle, in Clerkenwell, opened in '91. Many followed

1994: Nose-to-tail eating

The trend for eating an entire animal's innards and appendages emerged with St John opening in Smithfield – pig's trotters, anyone?

2007: Craft beer

Social media meant food and drink trends could catch on quickly. Observe the rise of US- inspired microbrewries and craft beers all over the UK

2009: Sourdough

Appetites for all things vintage led to the revival of that most ancient of breads, sourdough. Mark's Bread in Bristol led the way

2009: Small plates

Mezze, tapas, antipasti, snacks: different languages, same tiny plates. Russell Norman opened Polpo and fuelled the trend

2010: Food trucks

The humble burger van has taken on a whole new level of prestige with the rise of hipster sliders and the gourmet food truck

2010: Foraging

Noma's head chef René Redzepi forages a good deal of his food. Next, a wave of chefs took to the woods to find some wild ingredients

2012: Trendy chicken

Fried chicken takeaways and Nando's are everywhere. It was only a matter of time before the foodies caught on

2012: Raw food

First there was Soho's Ceviche, specialising in citrus-marinated uncooked fish. Now keeping whole meals raw is all the rage

Profile: Chef David Chang

From his base in New York, epicentre of global hip-food culture, David Chang is credited with triggering what the New York Times called a "gastronomic youthquake". It could better be described as a decade-long shift in tectonic dinner plates still changing the way we eat.

The Korean-American cook trained under top chefs in Japan and New York before rejecting fine dining and opening the Momofuku Noodle Bar in Manhattan in 2004. With no reservations, no fuss, mouth-watering pork buns and the best ramen noodles outside Tokyo, it took the city by storm.

The Chang empire now includes a chain of milk bars and outposts in Sydney and Toronto, as well as Lucky Peach, a food journal made with arty publishers McSweeney's.

He has also inspired a new generation of hip restaurateurs in the UK including, among others, Russell Norman, the MEATliquor boys and a burgeoning ramen scene. Like it or not, David Chang helped make food the new rock'n'roll.

Simon Usborne

How to make: Mac 'n' cheese

Variations on the classic dish have been showing up on the menus of hip restaurants lately, such as Spuntino's in central London. Its head chef Rachel O'Sullivan shares her take on the mac'n'cheese

Cook 250g macaroni pasta in boiling water until al dente. Drain, then soak in 1 cup milk, 2 cups double cream, 1 cup Parmesan, 1 cup mozzarella and a tablespoon of mustard. Mix and leave for a few hours.

In a medium-sized pan braise two diced leeks with salt, pepper and 6 garlic bulbs; add the soaking pasta. Add 175g grated fontina, then mix.

Transfer the pasta mix to a baking dish and cover with 100g breadcrumbs mixed with Parmesan. Bake in oven for 15 minutes until golden brown and bubbling.

Serves eight.