James Knappett: 'I'll pretty much eat anything, but stinky tofu is really wrong'

 

My earliest food memory… Prawn cocktail. My mum would make it as a treat, and she always used to sprinkle prawn cocktail crisps on it, too – that was about as gourmet as it got [in our house].

My store-cupboard essentials… Marmite, tea bags and HP sauce. I also love Sriracha sauce, which is an Asian hot sauce – it's a really easy way to add spice. Another thing my wife [and co-owner of "hot dogs and champagne" restaurant Bubbledogs] Sandia and I love is something called furry pork, which is Asian dehydrated shredded pork. We get jars of it with dried seaweed mixed in, which Sandia's mum posts over from California. It's great in noodles or rice, or on cheese on toast.

My favourite cookbook… I have two. Thomas Keller's The French Laundry Cookbook is the first book I got when I got into serious cookery. It was published more than 10 years ago, but the food still feels cutting-edge. Also Nigel Slater's The Kitchen Diaries: he's an incredible food writer. When I was working at Noma, I took that book with me and when I was missing England and English food, I used to read it. He can really capture a time and a place and a feeling.

My top table… Koya [a Japanese udon-noodle house in London's Soho] is brilliant. I'm good friends with the chef there, Junya Yamasaki, and his food always makes me think. The last time I went he did this steamed tomato, and the flavour he got into it and the broth around it was so brilliant – it's something so simple, but through his technique and skills, he made it amazing.

My dream dining companion… David Jason. Only Fools and Horses has been a massive part of my life – it's such a great programme to put on if you're down – and I think he's an incredible actor.

My guilty pleasure… Buffalo chicken wings. I grew to love them when I was working in America and now, whenever I go back, it doesn't matter how many fine-dining meals I go out for, I have to have them. At Bubbledogs we even have a buffalo dog inspired by my love for them, where we coat the dog in buffalo [hot barbecue] sauce, add fresh celery, pickled celery and celery leaf salad, then crumble Stilton cheese on top, because traditionally the wings come with celery sticks and blue-cheese dip.

The strangest thing I've eaten... Snake in Taiwan, along with a soup made out of its heart and bones. It was pretty weird, but also quite tasteless. Also, I recently went to Thailand and did all the insects – grubs, cockroaches, crickets, that kind of thing. I tried them in a sort of spicy salt, and they actually tasted good. I also had live ants this year at MAD, Rene Redzepi's food symposium. Personally, they weren't for me.

My pet hates… Restaurants that make people feel unwelcome. That's something that annoyed me in the early days [of my career]: as a young chef, you'd save up to go to expensive places to try the food out but if you're young and you don't order an expensive bottle of wine and just order tap water, then some places will treat you differently. Also, I'll pretty much eat anything, but I think stinky tofu is really wrong, as is durian, which is a spiky Asian fruit. The smell is so nasty when it's cut into that it's banned on public transport in certain countries.

My tipple of choice… Gin and tonic. Me and Sandia have actually made our own gin for Bubbledogs with the help of a distiller friend of ours and called it Chappett's. It's flavoured with wild liquorice root and a herb called sweet cicely, and it was incredibly fun to make.

James Knappett is the chef and co-owner of Bubbledogs (bubbledogs.co.uk) and fine-dining restaurant Kitchen Table, both at 70 Charlotte Street, London W1. For reservations, tel: 020 7637 7770

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
News in pictures
World news in pictures
Life & Style blogs

How can the mortgage market recovery be helped?

Guest post by Richard Sexton, business development director of e.surv chartered surveyors

Where do most millionaires live in the UK?

Plus lateral thinking and living on London's waterways

Wandsworth tops aspiring young professionals hotspot list

Other popular areas include Didsbury, Clifton in Bristol, central Cambridge and West Bridgford

       

ES Rentals

    Day In a Page

    James Pembroke: The man who's eaten everywhere

    The man who's eaten everywhere

    Few people know more about restaurants than James Pembroke, who only spent five mealtimes at home during his entire childhood.
    A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

    A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

    The young JFK praised 'superior' Nordic races during visits to Germany
    Banned Iranian director Mohammad Rasoulof to attend Cannes Film Festival 2013, his first public appearance since prison

    Banned Iranian director to attend Cannes Film Festival

    Mohammad Rasoulof to make his first public appearance since being imprisoned three years ago
    Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

    Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

    An exhibition explores images how photography has shaped astronomy
    Eat Spam and carry on: Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating

    Eat Spam and carry on

    Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating
    Facial hair: Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence

    Facial hair

    Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence
    The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

    The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

    Whether they're for everyday use or to make your dining table look just right, it's worth getting a stylish shaker...
    Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

    Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

    Chief executive says trophies will come if a 'core' of suitable players is in place
    Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

    Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

    The Bayern Munich forward tells Tim Rich his side have to shed chokers' tag after two recent final defeats
    Giro d'Italia: The Stelvio Pass - cycling's killer climb

    The Stelvio Pass - cycling's killer climb

    As the Giro d'Italia tackles the brutal climb, Simon Usborne takes on the snow and switchbacks – and soon realises what the fuss is about
    National archives: Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Newly unearthed papers reveal a shocking extra dimension to the constitutional crisis over monarch’s abdication
    Sent down at the Old Bailey: A tour of the world's most famous court

    Sent down at the Old Bailey

    A tour of the world's most famous court
    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    The Hangover actor Zach Galifianakis’s date for his movie premieres isn’t arm candy  – it’s his 87-year-old friend who he saved from homelessness
    British football scores an own goal

    British football scores an own goal

    Many managers barely survive a year in post. Martin Baker talks to experts who make a case for clubs using forensic business skills to find the best staff
    James Lawton: Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again

    James Lawton

    Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again