Lidl's new wine range offers fine value

The supermarket's core range is supplemented by its one-off, foire-aux-vins-style seasonal "Collections"

Lidl represents a serious threat to the Big Four (Getty Images)

On the face of it, there's little to choose between Lidl and Aldi. They are both as German as schwarzbrot, both discounters place value before beauty, and both represent serious threats to the Big Four: Sainsbury's, Morrisons, Asda and Tesco. Both have substantially upped the wine ante in the past couple of years, with credible ranges increasingly appreciated by wine drinkers of all classes.

Where they differ, however, is in their approach. While Aldi maintains a strong no-frills range headed by its Exquisite Collection label, Lidl's core range is supplemented by its one-off, foire-aux-vins-style seasonal "Collections".

Indicating at its most recent press tasting that it's increasing the number of its seasonal ranges, Lidl showed both its Easter Wine Collection, on shelves since Thursday, and its April Wine Cellar, due in store on 21 April. Whites kicked off with a fine, rose-petal scented 2014 Alto Adige Gewurztraminer, £7.99, and a rich, off-dry honeydew melon-like 2013 Neszmely Pinot Gris, Hungary, £6.79.

Finishing with a crisp, dry flourish, a rich, buttery 2014 Montagny Les Carlins, £11.99, is a more than respectable dry white burgundy, while the Cape delivers an approachably juicy 2015 Chenin Blanc-Viognier-Roussanne, La Méridionale, £5.49, and Australia a pleasingly floral, citrus-zesty 2015 Axis Clare Valley Riesling, £5.99.

While spring may be in the air, reds here are broadly speaking better than whites, starting off with the dark cherry-fruity 2014 Lagrein, Alto Adige, £7.99; an aromatic, strawberryish 2014 Morgon, Vignerons du Vieux Tinailler, £8.49; and a bright, violet-scented, 2012 Bodega Tonel, £5.99, Mendoza.

The 2014 Saint Joseph, £8.99, does the northern Rhône spice and pepper to perfection, while its southern hemisphere counterpart, a 2015 Foremost Hawkes Bay Syrah, £8.99, is a tad more pungently peppery with a fine savoury fruit quality.

Pick of the bunch are a stylish St.Émilion-alike vanilla oaky 2012 Lalande de Pomerol, Château Jean de Gue, £14.99, and an exotic sweetie: the 2013 Tokaji Kesoi Arany Grand Selection, Hungary, £8.99, half-litre, oozing ginger-spicy pineapple with a toffee-apple richness.