Michelin Bib Gourmand 2022: These are the rising stars of the restaurant world
These restaurants might not have stars (or the price tags to go with them), but that doesn’t mean they’re anything less than excellent, writes Hannah Twiggs
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It’s a big day in the world of food.
Michelin has announced its new stars for the 2022 guide, featuring 19 new one-stars, five two-stars and one three-star, spanning Great Britain and Ireland.
Alongside these awards, generally considered an indicator of the best in the business, it released its newest Bib Gourmands. Named after Bibendum – the Michelin Man – the distinction highlights restaurants that offer great food at great value.
Sure, they might not have the same glitz and glamour as the stars, but don’t be fooled: they still serve seriously good grub. And we’ve been lucky enough to eat at some of them in the past year.
Here’s the full list:
London
From the talented restaurateur behind Polpo, Russell Norman’s new Farringdon spot Brutto brings a taste of Tuscan sun to the British capital. Described by Michelin as “impossible not to love”, expect simplicity, quality, authenticity and big flavours. It’s favoured for its buzzing atmosphere, great value for money and authentic food, from dough balls and vodka pasta to beef shin, peppercorn stew and huge T-bone steaks. Also not to be missed is the extensive list of classic cocktails.
Pahli Hill, Regent’s Park and Marylebone
In the heart of Fitzrovia, this bright restaurant offers regional Indian small plates, derived from home recipes and traditional techniques, made to share. Head Chef Avinash Shashidhara has created thoughtful menus celebrating an eclectic mix of flavours from every corner of the country, from papadi chat and Mangalore buns with crab sukkah, to Cornish lamb biryani, squab pigeon “jungle maas” and Chettinad-style veal shin.
Described in December by The Independent’s Molly Codyre as “London’s most exciting new restaurant opening”, manteca’s permanent home (after successful pop-ups in Mayfair and Soho) has already built itself a buzzy reputation. It’s exciting, it’s innovative, the menu features a selection of impeccable pasta but it doesn’t take it too seriously, and that’s what ultimately impresses.
Read our review here.
Inspired by traditional Japanese yakitori, Angelo Sato’s new fun, modern spot makes chicken the star of the show (shock). The chicken – bones and all – is sourced from Sutton Hoo Chicken on the Suffolk coast, which is slow-reared, free-range, excetera excetera. Sit at the counter, watch the chefs at work and delight in yakitori skewers cooked over a charcoal grill. The “soft knee and cartilage” and “Tsukune meatball” are highlights.
Syrian chef, entrepreneur and refugee, Imad Alarnab has poured his contagiously fun personality into his first restaurant, which opened in Kingly Court (the former site of Asma Khan’s iconic Darjeeling Express) in 2021, and you can see it everywhere, from the setting to the menu. Generous pricing makes this one of the best places to go with a group: don’t be afraid to over-order. Everything from the kabab Hindi minced lamb to the Jaj Barghol grilled chicken thighs is excellent.
England
You know it’s good when people are queueing to get in. A stone’s throw from the River Dart, this modern European bistro puts local ingredients centre-stage in flavour-packed, creative dishes. Michelin mentions the Brixham crab with apple, ginger and lemon sorrel and the stir-fried sprouts with miso caramel, chilli, garlic and ginger as starting points.
Burnt Orange, Brighton – East Sussex
Razak Helalat’s Burnt Orange is billed as an all-day, all-night drinking and dining spot, a moniker that undersells itself. The restaurant and courtyard quite literally feel like they could be in another world. Perfect for wandering in for a boozy lunch and staying until after dinner, the menu sits under the ever-popular, ambiguously labelled Mediterranean cuisine and is designed for sharing. We loved the selection of snacks (“a masterclass in finger food”), the crispy sea bream with basil yoghurt and mango dressing, and the pork belly shawarma.
Read our review here.
In the old home of Grain, one of Colchester’s most popular eating spots, Kintsu offers diners an array of small plates from which to create their own tasting menu – or there’s a two-seater chef’s table if you’d like to see the action up close. Following the seasons and the availability of local produce, previous highlights include Dingley Dell pork, onion, squid and n’duja ragu; cured mackerel, cucumber, turnip, bonito and pickled ginger; and wood pigeon with swede and tamarind and dahl.
It might solidify Margate’s nickname as Shoreditch-on-Sea, but there’s no denying Sargasso serves proper holiday fare at its finest. Pulling from a range of influences, leading dishes for our reviewer (when she visited in August) included parmesan fritters, pig’s head terrine, cod’s roe, tomato tonnato and, most importantly, bread and butter. It makes for momentary gastronomic bliss when washed down with a crisp glass of white wine (we recommend the Zibibbo, or the skin contact Bianchetto). The team behind Columbia Road’s Brawn have brought the same Italian-accented dining ethos and great wine list to the Kent town, adapting it slightly to fit the new locale.
Read our review here.
Sculthorpe Mill, Sculthorpe – Norfolk
Set in a former watermill on the River Wensum, this beautiful country pub has been brought up to date by sisters Siobhan and Caitriona Peyton. Awarded best hotel by The Sunday Times last year, this year’s Bib Gourmand secures its status as a culinary must-visit. Dishes on the bar menu and a la carte are ingredient-led and delicious: think chargrilled Heath Farm rib of beef with confit potatoes, wild garlic, mushrooms, local sprouting broccoli and Madeira sauce, or The Mill fish stew featuring monkfish, sea bream, scallops, prawns and sea vegetables in a shellfish broth, both stunning sharers from this weekend’s Valentine’s Menu.
The Hollist Arms, Lodsworth – West Sussex
A pretty 18th century pub at the heart of the picturesque village of Lodsworth, The Hollist Arms serves straightforward, unfussy food rooted in the classics, with Mediterranean influences throughout. A small but diverse menu, great value and a charming setting have been attracting diners from all over the country. So has the braised pig’s cheeks, polenta, chorizo and gremolata and the Cornish plaice with tomato salad and aioli, to name just a couple.
Republic of Ireland
A smart, modern restaurant in a pretty coastal town, family-run Cush is a great culinary destination for visitors from near and far to Ireland’s southeast. If you can tear yourself away from the views over the harbour, the menu is heavily regionally focused with plenty of locally caught seafood, such as haddock grilled or in a fishcake and Ballycotton Queens potatoes in seaweed butter.
Éan, meaning “bird” in Irish, also earned itself a Michelin Green Star in 2021, and it’s continued that seasonal and sustainable approach into 2022. The artisan bakery, restaurant and wine bar – owned by Enda McEvoy of one Michelin-starred Loam – prides itself on inventive dishes made to share. That means delectable pastries, sandwiches, salads and soups in the day, and squid toast with white miso and bonito, or lamb shoulder with cider carrots at dinner time.
Generous dishes that showcase the best of fine modern Irish dining can be found in the heart of one of the republic’s oldest cities. Consistently reviewed as excellent, dependable and good value for money, Everett’s puts Irish produce front and centre: mozzarella from Toonsbridge Dairy, Duncannon smoked haddock, Derek Walsh’s Dexter beef, and more. Choose a spot in either the Front Room or the intimate Vault downstairs, where you can also find an eclectic wine selection.
Scotland
Inspired by southeast Asian cuisine, Ka Pao is relaxed, affordable and most importantly delicious. Choose from a range of small and large plates that range from Loch Creran oysters with green nam jim to a jungle curry of Shetland mussels and ramiro peppers. Alternatively, round up your friends and opt for the sharing menu to try a bit of everything. The service is fast, the atmosphere is buzzy, and the food does not disappoint.
It’s only been six months since Celentano’s opened its doors, and while it obviously hasn’t been an easy ride, it has been a highly successful one. Italian food and wine is the name of the game here, with an experienced chef at the helm and plenty of the finest Scottish ingredients at play. Designed to share and changing with the seasons, the clever but wholesome menu includes signature snacks and breads alongside pasta, sustainably sourced fish and meat, vegetable-led mains and herbs grown in the restaurant garden. Dine a la carte or indulge in the feasting menu for the full experience.
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