For the bouquet garni
Sprig of rosemary
2 bay leaves
Sprig of thyme
1 celery stick
For the pie
400g mutton shoulder, diced
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium swede, peeled and chopped into dice the same size as the mutton
1 celery stick, trimmed and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 litre mutton or lamb stock
500g potatoes, peeled, boiled and mashed
Mutton is such an underused meat. People assume it comes from an old animal, but that's not true – the lamb is just a bit more mature. The meat has a fantastic flavour, so do make an effort to seek it out for this homely, tasty, satisfying pie.
You will need a 25cm pie dish and a piping bag with a large nozzle. Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Tie the rosemary, bay leaves, thyme and celery together with string to make a bouquet garni and set aside.
Season the diced mutton with salt and pepper. Heat a heavy-based saucepan on the hob and, when it is hot, add the olive oil. Fry the mutton until golden brown all over. Remove the browned mutton from the pan and set aside.
Now reduce the heat, add the diced swede to the saucepan and cook until it caramelises. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the celery and onion and cook until soft. Then pour in the Madeira and allow it to reduce by half.
Return the mutton and swede to the pan and cover with the stock. Bring the pan to the boil, skimming off any excess fat that rises to the surface. Add the bouquet garni and cook for 1 hour, or until the mutton is tender. Taste the sauce, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Pour into the pie dish, removing the bouquet garni, and set aside to cool. Now, using the piping bag, carefully pipe an even layer of the mashed potato over the surface of the meat. Bake the pie in the oven for about 20 minutes, until it is golden brown and piping hot in the centre. Serve with your choice of vegetables.
From 'Bryn's Kitchen' by Bryn Williams (Kyle Cathie, £25). Photograph by Jonathan Gregson