Serves 4

Bubble and squeak isn't just a brilliant way of using up wintry leftovers. I'm more likely to cook the green veg and potatoes from scratch at any time of the year, as this dish is such a great accompaniment to grilled meats. Later in the spring you can also use chopped-up peas and beans. There are leafy greens around – such as spring greens and sea spinach – which make all the difference to a springtime bubble and squeak.

4 Barnsley chops, weighing about 250g each
4 lambs kidneys
4 sprigs of rosemary

For the spring bubble and squeak

125–150g cooked, peeled new potatoes
200g spring greens, cooked, drained and chopped
2 leeks, roughly chopped and washed
A couple of handfuls of wild plants and herbs such as wild garlic, charlock or sea spinach, washed
1tbsp chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2tbsp vegetable oil
3-4 good knobs of butter

Cook the leeks and greens separately in boiling, salted water and drain. If you're using wild garlic, charlock or sea spinach, then just gently cook them in a little of the butter for a few minutes until tender.

Chop the potatoes and greens, then mix with the leeks, the wild herbs if you're using them and the parsley. Season to taste, then mould the mixture into 4 even-sized flat patties. Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan and cook the patties for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden. Keep warm in a low oven.

Meanwhile, heat a ribbed griddle plate, season the chops and cook for about 5-6 minutes on each side, keeping them nice and pink. While the chops are cooking, skewer each kidney with a sprig of rosemary, season and grill for a couple of minutes on each side with the chops. Serve the chops on warmed plates with the bubble and squeak and the kidney on top.

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