Serves 4

It's a shame we don't drink more sherry - or use it for cooking. As an aperitif it's ideal with cured ham, tapas and other little Spanish delicacies, and it complements offal and other stronger meats perfectly in a sauce.

Lamb's kidneys are underrated, too. Instead of chopped in a steak pie, they're delicious on their own simply grilled in a mixed grill or pan-fried. Try to buy fresh kidneys, as the frozen ones tend to lose their blood and natural juices when they hit the hot grill or frying pan. Try this for brunch, lunch, supper or even as a starter if you're that hungry.

3 fresh lamb's kidneys
4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
A good knob of butter
2tsp flour
100ml dry sherry
1tsp Dijon mustard
1tsp grain mustard
200ml beef stock
2tbsp double cream
1tbsp chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable or corn oil for frying
4 slices of bloomer or ciabatta-style bread, cut 1cm thick

Cut the kidneys in half, lengthways and remove any sinew with the point of a small sharp knife. Heat the butter in a pan and gently cook the shallots for 2-3 minutes until soft. Stir in the flour, then add the sherry and mustards and stir well. Gradually add the beef stock, stirring well to avoid lumps forming, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, season the kidneys and heat the vegetable oil in a heavy-based frying pan, until it's almost smoking. Fry the kidneys for 2-3 minutes on a high heat until they are nicely coloured, but still rare in the middle.

Remove from the pan onto a plate to catch any juices. Add the cream and parsley to the sauce and simmer for a few minutes until it's quite thick. Add the kidneys to the sauce and season with salt and pepper. If necessary f bring back to the boil and simmer for 1-2 minutes to re-heat the kidneys.

Meanwhile toast the bread on both sides and spoon the kidneys and sauce over the toast.