Serves 4

This is a very indulgent way to make mashed potato. If you relate it to the butter content of, say, a hollandaise sauce, it's more or less on a par with that. It's crucial that you use really well-flavoured potatoes that are not waxy - and because you don't need that much potato itself it works really well with large new potatoes like charlotte, roseval, or you could even use Jerseys.

150g large new potatoes, peeled
150g butter
4tbsp double cream
Milk to mix
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 12-15 minutes, or until cooked. Drain, then return to a low heat briefly to evaporate any excess water. Put the potatoes through a mouli-légumes or a potato ricer.

Melt the butter in a pan with the cream, then add the potato, season and mix together with a whisk, adding milk to adjust to almost a custard-like consistency. At this stage you can add more butter, cream and seasoning to suit your taste, but it's important to keep the earthy flavour of the potatoes.