Serves 4

If you are a bit squeamish about those little bunnies hanging up in the butchers then try these French-farmed rabbits. In fact they are farming them here now and they are extremely meaty and not as gamey as wild ones. Scottish girolles, yes Scottish, are now well in season and very good too. They marry perfectly with artichokes, and with rabbit come to that, for an all-in earthy experience.

4 large farmed rabbit legs
Olive oil for grilling
100g butter
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
Half a glass of white wine
150ml chicken stock
250g girolles, cleaned
4 medium-sized globe artichoke hearts, cooked and quartered
1tbsp chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pre-heat a ribbed griddle pan, barbecue or grill. Season the rabbit legs with salt and pepper, lightly oil them and grill for 6-7 minutes on each side. They should be moist in the middle, but check with a knife or skewer that they're properly cooked.

Meanwhile gently cook the shallots and garlic in 50g of the butter for 2-3 minutes until soft. Add the girolles and continue to cook for another 3-4 minutes, giving the occasional stir until they soften. Remove from the heat and transfer the shallots and girolles to a bowl or plate. Add the wine to the same pan and boil until it has reduced completely, then add the chicken stock and reduce it by two-thirds. Return the girolles to the sauce with the artichokes and parsley and simmer until the sauce begins to thicken. Add the butter and stir until melted. Serve the rabbit legs, ideally on some mashed potato with the sauce spooned over.