Ingredients to serve 4

Olive oil, for frying
2 medium red onions, sliced
2-3 stalks pink rhubarb
8-10 new potatoes, scrubbed (or peeled if you can be bothered)
A small handful of smoked lardons, or thickly cut smoked bacon or poitrine fumée cut into chunks
4 nice chunks or slices of veal fillet, or 4 small veal cutlets, about 120g each
1 tablespoon good curry powder, or a mild curried barbecue rub
75g good butter
Fleur de sel (sea salt)

Start by making the red onion compote. In a heavy-based saucepan, heat a little olive oil and add the sliced onions. Cook down very gently for five minutes or so – you don't want them to fry or colour. When they start to soften, add the rhubarb and a splash of water. Cover the pan and let the compote cook slowly for a further five to 10 minutes. Season with fleur de sel and pepper and leave to cool.

Boil some water in a pan and put the potatoes in it to cook. Try to have them hot and ready to crush when the veal is cooked; they can be heated up again in the microwave if necessary.

Heat a heavy-based frying pan and throw in the lardons – there is no need to add oil or butter first. When they are golden and crispy, turn them onto some kitchen paper to mop up any excess fat and keep them warm.

Wipe the pan clean if there are any burnt bits in it; if not, make the most of the smoky, salty residue. Just let the pan cool down a little, then pour in a splash of olive oil.

Heat the oil and fry the veal. Start by browning it on all sides, then reduce the heat and let the meat cook through. Sprinkle it with curry powder and turn it around a few times in the pan to seal the powder onto the outside of the meat and form a very light crust.

Crush the cooked potatoes with the butter and spoon them onto individual plates. Balance the veal on top, sprinkle with lardoons and serve with the compote.

Sommelier's choice

St Hallett Rose 2008, South Australia

A blend of grenache, shiraz and Gewurztraminer – a subtle complement to this dish.

Waitrose, £6.64,

From 'Nobody Does It Better' by Trish Deseine (Kyle Cathie, £19.99)