Life and Style Models present creations by Emporio Armani at the Fall/Winter 2014 Men's collection

The twenty-first century habit of instantly recording a show and broadcasting the results across social media is damaging to fashion - but some designers aren't playing ball

Maestro of exquisite minimalism

BEIGE, TAUPE, chocolate; waterfall lapels of the softest suede; layer upon layer of sheer chiffon and sequined fabric costing at least pounds 400 a yard. The collection? Giorgio Armani. The clothes? As good as ever - grown up, superbly cut, fluid and flattering.

Letter: Unconstructed style does not suit everyone

Sir: Roger Tredre's interesting article 'Savile Row begins fightback to save the gentleman's suit' (16 July) reports Savile Row tailors' 'sneaking regard' for Giorgio Armani. I fear any such regard will hardly be sustained by the absurd Armani ensemble you published in juxtaposition.

Savile Row begins fightback to save the gentleman's suit: Roger Tredre looks at the way traditional tailors suffering a decade of declining trade hope to halt the march of casual fashion

THE GENTLEMEN of Savile Row are rallying forces. With sales of men's suits nation-wide showing a steady decline since the late Eighties, the tailors have decided the time has come to counter-attack. Ever so politely, of course.

FASHION / Old friends

MILAN, 30 JUNE: The Armani fashion show is always the crowning moment of the Milan menswear season. During the hour-long build-up, the narrow Via Borgonuovo clogs up with traffic; passers-by stop and stare; a long limousine disgorges Eric Clapton. The most influential menswear designer in the world is showing his new collection, and attendance is compulsory.

Media: Talk of The Trade: DIY designer dress

CHANNEL 4's delicate balance between fulfilling its remit for minority programmes and its clear populist swing continues, as illustrated by this summer's season of programmes. For example, a three-part profile of the fashion designer Jean Muir will be supported by 'original and appropriate educational back-up in the flattering shape of an exclusive Jean Muir dress pattern'.

FASHION / The trying on game

ON 17 FEBRUARY, the day this year's Oscar nominations were announced, Calvin Klein is said to have sent three dozen white roses, a pair of his sunglasses, and a portfolio of sketches to all of the women nominees. Tomorrow night's ceremony is the biggest catwalk show of the year: a festival of frocks, modelled by the famous and witnessed by a billion television viewers. This is the one night of the year when every star wants to look like a star, and for international designers, it is a heaven-sent opportunity to grab a great slice of publicity. They fight for that slice. Richard Tyler, a Hollywood designer, says: 'It's turned into a battle royal.'

Speak softly and don't wear an Armani suit: Roger Tredre asks: why was the D-G stitched up?

NEVER mind the secretarial expenses, the travel and accommodation bills or the entertaining. It was that Armani wardrobe that nearly did him in; it is the Armani suits people will remember.

Outraged about one, gleeful over the other: John Birt made a bad mistake, though it was not the mistake of a bad man. But can the same be said of Marmaduke Hussey?

'GLEE' is a useful word, short but with enough consonantal character to make it satisfying to dwell on for emphasis, as in the sentence: 'I don't support John Birt, but I can't bear the glee with which he is being pursued.' When people utter such a sentence (that is, when they begin to feel a bit ashamed of the way they have been enjoying some scandal), they may pause slightly before the word 'glee', as if to savour the 'gl' in advance. There is glee to be derived from glee.

Trousers shine in ripples and pearls: Armani's soft silhouettes offer an escape from 'grunge'. Marion Hume reports

GIORGIO ARMANI took hundreds of metres of chiffon and brimfuls of bugle beads to whip up a shimmering collection of evening wear in Milan.

Inside Story: All good fun and jolly good companies: Buy one off the peg or tailor made. Not the Armani suit but the company itself. With you as chairman, your spouse as secretary, you can save a fortune, Steve Boggan discovers

IT'S ALMOST as cheap as buying a suit off the peg but it's much easier. Just pounds 139, a telephone call and a first- class stamp will get you your own company within three days; you can be the chairman, your spouse the secretary and your accountant can begin saving you lots and lots of money.

Leading Article: No private matter

JOHN BIRT'S tax arrangements call into question his own judgement and that of the BBC's board of governors. Yesterday's Independent on Sunday revealed that the corporation's new Director-General is being paid as a freelance consultant who has turned himself into a company, even though he is a full- time employee of the BBC. Instead of paying tax on his full BBC salary, thought to be about pounds 150,000, he has been taxed only on what he chooses to pay himself from his company: in 1991, when he was Deputy Director- General, that was pounds 59,000, plus pounds 14,000 for his wife. He was able to offset againstturnover substantial expenses such as secretarial assistance, lighting and heating, as well as charges for clothes, insurance and cleaning. What would Lord Reith, the BBC's puritan founder, have made of a Director-General who sets his Armani suits against tax?

Designers to sue Armani over T-shirt copyright

IN THE most unlikely fashion feud of the year, the founders of Antoni & Alison, two young designers from London, are suing Giorgio Armani, one of the world's leading fashion names.

Corporate culture faces re-education

JOHN BIRT'S ambitious plans for 'turning promises into realities' include re-educating Auntie and all who work there, writes Maggie Brown.

Will there be a G-string in your stocking?: Britons have a weakness for underwear: we buy more than any other European country. Tamsin Blanchard examines what's good in men's knickers and socks

THE British buy more men's underwear than anyone in Europe - and most of it is bought by women for their male partners. We buy four pairs per man per year, compared with 2.8 in France, and only 1.8 in Italy.
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