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Restaurant review: Berners Tavern is grown-up and gorgeous but won't

It's been a while since I did this. The shuffle past sharp-suited doormen into the shock-and-awe lobby. The jostling at the bar alongside cocktail-sipping gobshites. The awkward attempt to interact with waitresses dressed in scanty black mini-dresses. The realisation that I'm the only female in the place wearing trousers, a dodo among flamingos.

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