48 Hours In: Rio de Janeiro

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

Brazil's 'marvellous city' is as flamboyant, dramatic and seductive as ever – even in the South American winter.

Click here for 48 Hours In...Rio de Janeiro map

Travel essentials

Why go now?

The sun is shining again in Brazil's most flamboyant city – and new flights should mean lower fares. After landslides devastated parts of Rio in April, the former capital is back to its vibrant self. Even in Brazil's so-called winter, you can soak up the beach life, mountains, forests and party spirit of the self-styled Marvellous City in pleasingly balmy temperatures.

Touch down

TAM (020-8741 2005; tam.com.br ) starts non-stop flights from Heathrow on 10 August, competing with BA (0844 493 0787; ba.com ). Air France, Iberia and TAP Portugal fly from the UK via their European hubs. Tour operator Hayes & Jarvis (0871 664 0246; hayesandjarvis.co.uk ) offers seven-night twin-centre packages to Rio and Iguazu Falls from £1,099 per person, including flights and transfers.

The international airport is officially named after Antonio Carlos Jobim (composer of 'The Girl from Ipanema') but everyone knows it as Galeao. A taxi to the beaches of Copacabana (1) or Ipanema (2) will cost about 80 Reais (R80/£30) and take at least 25 minutes.



Get your bearings

Rio's dramatic topography makes it one of the most mesmerising cities in the Americas. Neighbourhoods are pocketed between haphazard peaks, favelas (shanty towns) stack up on hills, vertiginous mountains fold into the haze, and everything spills down to dazzling Atlantic beaches. This also makes it a bewildering city to get to grips with. The Centro business district edges north up Guanabara Bay, but the biggest draws are south of here. Work your way to the mouth of the bay via Sugar Loaf Mountain (3) and the beaches – Copacabana (1), Ipanema (2) and Leblon (4) – start trailing west. Rising behind all of this are the elevated Lapa and Santa Teresa districts, with the forested peaks of Tijuca National Park (5) looming in the background.

The main tourist bureau, Riotur (6), is at 125 Rua Mexico (00 55 21 2333 1037; rioguiaoficial.com.br ), with a kiosk on Copacabana beach (1).



Check in

Contemporary high-end accommodation has until recently been notably lacking in Rio. Happily, Hotel Santa Teresa (7) at 660 Rua Almirante Alexandrino (00 55 21 3380 0200; santa-teresa-hotel.com ) filled the gap in bohemian Santa Teresa last year. A former coffee plantation mansion has been given a slick makeover and now offers a milieu of tropical hardwoods, designer furniture and hammock-strewn verandas. Doubles from R750 (£270), room only.

Down by the ocean, check out the framed signatures on the wall at Hotel Fasano (8), 80 Avenida Vieira Souto (00 55 21 3202 4000; fasano.com.br ) and you'll soon realise you're in good company. The glossy address is where Coldplay, Francis Ford Coppola and Madonna stay when in town. However, Philippe Starck's 1950s-inspired design doesn't translate to Fifties prices: doubles from US$552 (£368).

At Bonita Ipanema (9), 107 Rua Barao da Torre (00 55 21 2227 1703; bonitaipanema.com ), once the home of Antonio Carlos Jobim himself, you can hum 'The Girl from... ' shamelessly while enjoying the guesthouse's colourful but unpolished interiors. B&B from R160 (£58), dorms R40 (£15).

Day One

Take a hike

Even now in winter, temperatures nudge a comfortable 25C, so to catch the breeze do as the Cariocas do and head to the beach. Copacabana (1) has lost its glamorous edge. Instead, focus on the three-mile stretch of soft fawn sand and emerald waves split between hipster-central Ipanema (2) and exclusive Leblon (4) - punctuated by the rocky outcrop of Ponta do Arpoador (10), a popular spot for sunset-seekers.

Amble along the retro black-and-white mosaic promenade, dodging the pseudo-catwalk of joggers, and note the different lifeguard posts. Each traditionally attracts a different crowd: seven is for surfers, eight's rainbow flag attracts a gay crowd and nine is for the jet set.

Just after the channel separating Ipanema and Leblon you'll come to post 10 and the futevolei courts, where elastic men play an enthralling cross between football and volleyball that goes some way to explaining the Brazilian football team's legendary skills.



Window shopping

Shake the sand from your Havaianas and continue your exploration of Ipanema and Leblon, where the biggest concentration of shops and boutiques can be found. Leblon Shopping (11) at 290 Avenida Afranio de Melo Franco is stuffed with luxury brands such as Prada and Chanel, as well as local names such as Bum Bum Ipanema (for "dental floss" bikinis) and Osklen (contemporary fashion). A Hippie Market takes place each Sunday, 9am-5pm, on Praca General Osorio (12) in Ipanema.



Lunch on the run

Where were Coldplay spotted before playing at the enormous Sambadrome earlier this year? At Sushi Leblon (13), 256 Rua Dias Ferreira (00 55 21 2512 7830; sushileblon.com ). After Japan itself, Brazil is home to the world's second-largest Japanese population, so sushi is both ubiquitous and good. Tuck into tuna and salmon maki rolls, sashimi, teppanyaki, tempura... even miso-marinated salmon and foie gras. Dishes range from R22 (£8) to R51 (£19).

Image-conscious Cariocas can also be found lingering at one of the many suco or juice stalls, such as Bibi (14), 591 Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva in Leblon. Choose your combination from a panoply of tropical fruits and get it blended from around R8 (£3) per glass.



Cultural afternoon

In anticipation of the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics, Rio hums to the sound of regeneration - that's to say, demolition and construction. Copacabana (1) is aiming to shake off its seedy image with a new Museum of Image and Sound ( mis.rj.gov.br ) which New York-based architects Diller Scofidio + Renfro (responsible for the Big Apple's new High Line park) began work earlier this year. Until that is unveiled, make for the Instituto Moreira Salles (15) at 476 Rua Marques de Sao Vicente in Gavea (00 55 21 3284 7400; ims.uol.com.br ), where the modern garden and ceramic fresco were designed by Roberto Burle Marx, responsible for the city's iconic mosaic pavements. The house was built for the father of acclaimed film director Walter Salles, and now homes engaging cultural exhibitions, from film to music and visual arts. Open daily except Monday: weekends 11am-8pm, from 1pm on other days, admission free.



An aperitif

Start off with a cold beer at the Devassa microbrewery (16) at 1241 Avenida General San Martin (00 55 21 2259 8271; devassa.com.br ) - with several other outlets in the city. A chopp, or small draught beer, starts at around R10 (£3.70). Later in the evening, the place to be is Rio Scenarium (17) at 20 Rua do Lavradio (00 55 21 3147 9005; rioscenarium.com.br ) in lofty Lapa. The old mansion-cum-antiques-market-cum-bar heats up with music, dancing and caipirinhas from around 9pm.



Dining in style

Zaza Bistro Tropical (18), 40 Rua Joana Angelica (00 55 21 2247 9101; zazabistro.com.br ) delivers a hit of sultry Ipanema romance. The building feels like a cross between a fairytale grotto and your grandma's house, crammed with fairy lights, ferns, candles, retro and religious curios. Tables overlook the quiet street, while upstairs there are cushions and low tables. Fresh, organic ingredients are used to create fusion dishes such as seared tuna with seaweed, tapioca, horseradish mash and sesame broth, and lamb shank with truffle cream and pasta. A three-course meal will cost around R70 (£26) per person, without drinks.



Day Two

Sunday morning: go to church

Surrounded by Centro's seventies structures and skyscrapers, the baroque façade of Candelaria church (19) (00 55 21 2233 2324) manages to hold its own. Built in 1775 on the site of the city's first church, work continued on it sporadically until the late 19th century. The limestone cupola was sent from Lisbon. Open 9am-1pm on Sundays (7.30pm-4pm Monday to Friday, 8am-noon Saturday; free).



Take a view

To grasp properly Rio's topography, aim high. The 396m graphite monolith of Sugar Loaf Mountain (3) serves well to offer spectacular views from its position at the mouth of Guanabara Bay. Start the two cable-car journey from the station at nearby Praia Vermelha (00 55 21 2461 2700; bondinho.com.br ; 8.10am-9pm; R44/£16.30). The most seductive views are to be had from the peak at sunset, when the city is hung with a golden glow.



Take a ride

The steep cobbled streets, colourful mansions, buzzy cafes and clattering 19th-century trams combine to bestow quaint charm on Santa Teresa. The most charismatic way to teach this elevated, arty district is by the canary yellow Bonde trams that heave up from Carioca station (20) to Largo dos Guimaraes (21) via the top of the 18th-century Lapa viaduct. Tickets R0.60 (20p) one-way.



Out to brunch

The Brazilian equivalent to a Sunday roast is feijoada. Vegetarians might want to pass on the pork- and beef-heavy stews, accompanied by clay pots of black beans, pork scratchings, rice, cabbage and deep-fried cassava. Plenty more might want to pass on the "noble meats" (tail, feet, tongue), too. A popular spot for this long and filling meal is Bar do Mineiro (22), Rua Paschoal Carlos Magna 99, Santa Teresa (00 55 21 2221 9227). A meal for two costs R40 (£14.60).



A walk in the park

Why settle for a walk in the park when there's a rainforest on the doorstep? The precipitous folds of Tijuca Forest (5) form a verdant national park harbouring waterfalls, wildlife, leafy trails and, of course, that statue. The crowning glory of the 710m-high Corcovado Mountain, Christ the Redeemer, was clad in scaffolding until earlier this month when a £2.7m restoration was unveiled. If the walk up is too daunting, take the train that climbs through the rainforest from Cosme Velho train station (23); be prepared to queue (00 55 21 2558 1329; corcovado.com.br ; daily 8.30am-7pm; R36/£13.30 return).



The icing on the cake

The other side of the lasso-shaped Guanabara Bay is guarded by the city of Niteroi, whose icon is the Museum of Contemporary Art (24). The museum (00 55 21 2620 2400; macniteroi.com.br ) was designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the Brazilian architect responsible for much of the 50-year-old modernist capital, Brasilia. Appearing to hover over the water like a Seventies fruit bowl, it makes a stark contrast to Sugarloaf on the other side of the bay. Open 10am-6pm daily except Monday; R5 (£1.85).

Arts and Entertainment
Joe Cocker performing on the Stravinski hall stage during the Montreux Jazz Festival, in Montreux, Switzerland in 2002
musicHe 'turned my song into an anthem', says former Beatle
News
Clarke Carlisle
sport
Sport
footballStoke City vs Chelsea match report
Arts and Entertainment
theatreThe US stars who've taken to UK panto, from Hasselhoff to Hall
PROMOTED VIDEO
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Life and Style
Approaching sale shopping in a smart way means that you’ll get the most out of your money
life + styleSales shopping tips and tricks from the experts
News
newsIt was due to be auctioned off for charity
News
Coca-Cola has become one of the largest companies in the world to push staff towards switching off their voicemails, in a move intended to streamline operations and boost productivity
peopleCoca-Cola staff urged to switch it off to boost productivity
Environment
Sir David Attenborough
environment... as well as a plant and a spider
Voices
'That's the legal bit done. Now on to the ceremony!'
voicesThe fight for marriage equality isn't over yet, says Siobhan Fenton
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Investigo: Finance Analyst

    £240 - £275 per day: Investigo: Support the global business through in-depth a...

    Ashdown Group: Data Manager - £Market Rate

    Negotiable: Ashdown Group: Data Manager - MySQL, Shell Scripts, Java, VB Scrip...

    Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - Bedfordshire/Cambs border - £32k

    £27000 - £32000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - near S...

    Recruitment Genius: Class 1 HGV Driver

    £23000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This successful group of compan...

    Day In a Page

    Isis in Iraq: Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment by militants

    'Jilan killed herself in the bathroom. She cut her wrists and hanged herself'

    Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment
    Ed Balls interview: 'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'

    Ed Balls interview

    'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'
    He's behind you, dude!

    US stars in UK panto

    From David Hasselhoff to Jerry Hall
    Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz: What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?

    Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz

    What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?
    Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

    Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

    Planet’s surface is inhospitable to humans but 30 miles above it is almost perfect
    Surrounded by high-rise flats is a little house filled with Lebanon’s history - clocks, rifles, frogmen’s uniforms and colonial helmets

    Clocks, rifles, swords, frogmen’s uniforms

    Surrounded by high-rise flats is a little house filled with Lebanon’s history
    Return to Gaza: Four months on, the wounds left by Israel's bombardment have not yet healed

    Four months after the bombardment, Gaza’s wounds are yet to heal

    Kim Sengupta is reunited with a man whose plight mirrors the suffering of the Palestinian people
    Gastric surgery: Is it really the answer to the UK's obesity epidemic?

    Is gastric surgery really the answer to the UK's obesity epidemic?

    Critics argue that it’s crazy to operate on healthy people just to stop them eating
    Homeless Veterans appeal: Christmas charity auction Part 2 - now LIVE

    Homeless Veterans appeal: Christmas charity auction

    Bid on original art, or trips of a lifetime to Africa or the 'Corrie' set, and help Homeless Veterans
    Pantomime rings the changes to welcome autistic theatre-goers

    Autism-friendly theatre

    Pantomime leads the pack in quest to welcome all
    The week Hollywood got scared and had to grow up a bit

    The week Hollywood got scared and had to grow up a bit

    Sony suffered a chorus of disapproval after it withdrew 'The Interview', but it's not too late for it to take a stand, says Joan Smith
    From Widow Twankey to Mother Goose, how do the men who play panto dames get themselves ready for the performance of a lifetime?

    Panto dames: before and after

    From Widow Twankey to Mother Goose, how do the men who play panto dames get themselves ready for the performance of a lifetime?
    Thirties murder mystery novel is surprise runaway Christmas hit

    Thirties murder mystery novel is surprise runaway Christmas hit

    Booksellers say readers are turning away from dark modern thrillers and back to the golden age of crime writing
    Anne-Marie Huby: 'Charities deserve the best,' says founder of JustGiving

    Anne-Marie Huby: 'Charities deserve the best'

    Ten million of us have used the JustGiving website to donate to good causes. Its co-founder says that being dynamic is as important as being kind
    The botanist who hunts for giant trees at Kew Gardens

    The man who hunts giants

    A Kew Gardens botanist has found 25 new large tree species - and he's sure there are more out there