The natural world: Fossil hunting in South Africa

Suggested Topics

I'm kneeling in a hole carved out of brick-red rock, my face a few inches from the floor. The sun is hot on my back and the sweat keeps running into my eyes. In front of me are the delicate, creamy-white and exquisitely delicate bones of a small, plant-eating dinosaur.

We have just exposed them to sunlight for the first time in nearly 180 million years and my companions and I, sitting on this South African hillside, are the first humans ever to see these objects. It's something of a rush.

The rock is incredibly hard. We use a combination of picks, rock saws and fine hand tools – all of which were carried here on our backs in the late morning heat – to release our prize.

We're taking it in turns to complain – about the temperature, the walk, the weight of the packs and the additional weight of the fossils that we will ease down the almost vertical rock faces we scaled on our way up here. However, none of us would rather be anywhere else.

This has to be one of the best places in the world to hunt for dinosaur fossils. Not only are the rocks around Clarens rich in the remains of ancient life, but the scenery is simply awesome. Clarens is a small, pretty town situated deep in the Rooiberg range, providing an introduction to the nearby peaks of the mighty Drakensberg. It's popular with tourists and artists, offering us a civilised sanctuary after a hard day of rock breaking and walking.

The mottled purple-red rocks we search form imposing, sharp-edged hills and mountains around the town, but most spectacular of all are the flaming cliffs of the Clarens Sandstone, whose pinnacles blaze into almost luminescent life with the rays of both the morning and late afternoon sun. The reds and oranges they produce are so vivid they look almost artificial. Once the sun sets, this sea of light disappears quickly to be replaced by a deep, warm African darkness that reveals the Milky Way in its full glory.

A decent glass of pinot noir and an excellent steak await us at the Highlander Pub, just a short walk from our place. This is how all fossil hunting should be done...

Paul's dinosaur dig will be feature in "Museum of Life", a new six-part documentary filmed in the Natural History Museum and locations around the world. The first episode starts at 8pm this Thursday on BBC2; nhm.ac.uk

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Career Services

Day In a Page

Picture preview: Portrait of London

Portrait of London

Picture preview
No secularism please, we're British

No secularism please, we're British

Arguments about the role of religion in national life have recently acquired a new urgency
Harold Tillman: 'Chinese tourists can save the high street – if we let them'

Harold Tillman interview

'Chinese tourists can save the high street – if we let them'
Working as a jail torturer ruined my life

Working as a jail torturer ruined my life

Meet the former soldier who has joined the political prisoners he tortured in Turkey's Mamak prison by suing the generals who led a regime of terror
The local high street jet shop

The local high street jet shop

Got a spare $50m and can't stand the queues at Heathrow? Get yourself down to London's first private plane dealership
Do you like your doctor? It could be the death of you

Do you like your doctor?

It could be the death of you...
The mysterious affair of how Agatha Christie is teaching foreigners English

How Agatha Christie is teaching foreigners English

Twenty of the author's novels have been adapted and presented with learning notes and a CD
Six Grammys, five years off: Adele puts love before career

Six Grammys, five years off

Adele puts love before career
The 10 Best binoculars

The 10 Best binoculars

From no-frills to bins with digital cameras
Milan for £300

Milan for £300?

A cultural family holiday - on a budget - to Italy's most stylish city
'Black-hole' resorts: Turn up, tune out, log off

'Black-hole' resorts

Turn up, tune out, log off
New Arsenal face an old question of credibility in San Siro

New Arsenal face an old question of credibility in San Siro

Remodelled since winning in Milan in 2008, for all their consistency – and prize-money – Wenger's side are yet to claim a European title
James Lawton: This prodigal son deserves no forgiveness

James Lawton: This prodigal son deserves no forgiveness

City would be putting their desire to win title ahead of morals if Tevez plays for them
Mark Cavendish: Is Olympic gold at end of the rainbow?

Mark Cavendish interview

Is Olympic gold at end of the rainbow?
Apple admits it has a human rights problem

Apple admits it has a human rights problem

After years of complaints and workers' suicides in China the technology giant faces up to the human cost of its gadgets