A higher state of consciousness

Anyone for a spot of yogic flying? Chris Leadbeater heads to the Canadian Rockies, where mountain meditation comes courtesy of a rather noisy helicopter

When the silence recovers its composure, it does so with authority. It seems to wash over everything – the surrounding mountains, the patches of scrub on the ridges, the boulders that cling to unlikely gradients. I close my eyes, try to pick out a sound. There is nothing.

Of course, there is a chance that my ears are still adjusting to the sudden shift in volume.

Six minutes earlier, I was in the process of being deafened, the blades of the helicopter howling even as I stood on the scales by the terminal, having my weight checked ahead of the flight. Then we were clambering aboard, four of us in the belly of this metal vulture, headphones and lip-microphones affixed, allowing us to speak amid the roar.

The noise increased as we leapt from the ground, Cline River Heliport diminishing, the shape of Abraham Lake – a crooked, beckoning finger – becoming more identifiable as we rose. Within seconds, the only witnesses to our progress were several bighorn sheep, looking on aghast from a lushly grassed slope.

They too fell away as we soared onward – fir trees a blur of green – before dropping on to a clearing flat enough to enable the helicopter to land.

This contrast between calm and clamour is all part of the plan. The disappearance of the latter – which fades as the chopper picks up its feet and returns to the valley – is a hint that I am now, along with my fellow adventurers, "lost" in the wilderness.

But we are here to escape – and we will do so by hiking along sparse trails, breathing the clear air of lofty altitude, and indulging in a spot of yoga in a section of the Canadian Rockies that guards its privacy. Were it not for the helicopter, the only way to reach this high outcrop would be a day of sweat and toil, climbing ropes slung across shoulders, blisters on weary soles.

The remoteness of our location is instantly obvious. We are perched 2,195m (7,200ft) up on a crag that sits in the V-shaped intersection of two waterways. On one side, Cline River Canyon ploughs a north-westerly furrow. On the other, Coral Creek Canyon claws a route west, slicing through rock towards the spine of North America's most iconic mountain range.

Here, especially, the cloud-scraping drama of the Rockies deserves applause. Yet there is no one here to clap but us. It is 30 miles west to the fabled Icefields Parkway, where the motorhomes of myriad holidaymakers chase road-trip nirvana, lolloping past the slow-flickering tongues of ancient glaciers.

It is 100 miles east to Red Deer, where "civilisation" re-emerges in this dormitory town between Calgary and Edmonton (the two key cities of Alberta). Give or take the occasional soaring eagle or wandering bear, we are on our own.

And we need to start moving. Though this is summer, a chill hangs on the breeze, and the ghost of winter waits by some of the paths, haunting the scene in stubborn dabs of white.

So we begin walking, heading loosely back towards Abraham Lake. In parts, the going is easy. In others, the terrain kicks up, causing calf muscles to complain. Elsewhere, the land plunges and I find myself staring into the abyss, frozen above a descent of giddy depth.

After an hour at a fair pace, we push through a cluster of bushes and onto the Wedding Knoll. Its name is a clue to its personality. Blessed with a 360-degree panorama, it is used by Cline River Heliport as a setting for marital occasions.

The same characteristics – a direct line of sight across to a phalanx of mountain shards opposite, peaks clustered like a colossal coxcomb; the sky wide and epic – make it an ideal site for a little group exercise.

I am a long way from being an expert at yoga. But against such a backdrop, there is a quiet thrill to slipping off my boots, unrolling a mat and drifting again into hilltop silence.

At one corner of the square into which we form ourselves, Martha McCallum, the leader of our band, has rather more knowledge of this peaceful discipline.

A yoga practitioner for more than 20 years, she has been staging these helicopter-powered forays into the upper realms of the Rockies since 2008. In an earlier existence, she ran a café in Canmore, a ski town just outside Banff National Park. It is not difficult to grasp why she fled from the kitchen.

"Breathe in. Let yourself sink into your surroundings. Look around. Take in the beauty,' she says, running us through a series of poses that stretch sense and sinew: the arched back of Downward-Facing Dog; the bowed head of Dolphin; the upthrust arms of Warrior I. Despite my relative unfamiliarity with these movements, I find myself subscribing to the situation.

Through the mat, I can feel the mossy softness – seasoned with the odd pebble – of the ground below my toes. Dashes of sound that were hidden in the aftermath of the flight are now perceptible: the murmur of water on the edge of the clearing; the rustle of an unseen animal, rooting in undergrowth; the faint cry of wind, flowing around the peak.

It is an eventual wrench to break out of this reverie. But there is food to be eaten. Packed lunches – prepared by our hostess, a nod to her catering days – are handed out. There are meaty sandwiches and sticky flapjacks, boxes of salad and piles of fruit. A healthy feast.

As we are chewing, a jet's vapour trail gouges the firmament. The aircraft is invisible, but given the context, this seems a gross interruption – a burglar alarm at 4am; a mobile phone in a library; a coughing fit during a ballet performance. Yet it is also a reminder that the cord has not been cut. One call on Martha's radio will summon the helicopter. Sure enough, it bursts forth at her order, audible long before it is present. And despite the fact that the alternative – a complex trek downwards – is unpalatable, I am sorry to see the taxi arrive.

Travel Essentials

Getting there

British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) and Air Canada (0871 220 1111; aircanada.com) fly to Calgary from Heathrow.

Visiting there

Martha's Heli-Hikes, Cline River Heliport, Highway 11 (001 403 609 0824; marthashelihikes.com). The "Soaring Spirit Heli-Yoga" package costs from C$429 (£268) per person, and is available from May to September.

Touring there

Timeless Travel (0844 809 4299; timelesstravel.co.uk) offers an eight-night "Timeless Alberta" road-trip package that involves a drive from Banff to Jasper along the Icefields Parkway. From £1,460 per person, including flights, accommodation and car hire.

Staying there

Baker Creek Mountain Lodge, Bow Valley Parkway (001 403 522 3761; bakercreek.com). Doubles from C$165 (£103), room only.

More information

travelalberta.com

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
News in pictures
World news in pictures
       
Independent
Travel Shop
Berlin - East meets West
Three nights from only £399pp Find out more
Europe’s finest river cruises
Four nights from £669pp, seven nights from £999pp or 13 nights from £2,199pp Find out more
Historic Sicily
Seven nights half-board from only £799pp Find out more

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Sales and Marketing Executive Germany

    Competitive : Ryanair: We are currently recruiting for a Sales and Marketing E...

    Kenyan Healthcare Charity Looking for Volunteer Accountant

    Volunteer unpaid: Accounting for International Development (AfID): Does the so...

    Business Development Consultant - Graduate Program

    £20,000 - £23,000 + Commission : Co-Venture: This is an exciting opportunity t...

    Food Technology Teacher

    £26400 - £36000 per annum: Randstad Education Maidstone: An Independant school...

    Day In a Page

    Special report: How my father's face turned up in Robert Capa's lost suitcase

    Special report: How my father's face turned up in Robert Capa's lost suitcase

    The great war photographer was not one person but two. Their pictures of Spain's civil war, lost for decades, tell a heroic tale
    The unmade speech: An alternative draft of history

    The unmade speech: An alternative draft of history

    Someone, somewhere has to write speeches for world leaders to deliver in the event of disaster. They offer a chilling hint at what could have been
    Funny business: Meet the women running comedy

    Funny business: Meet the women running comedy

    Think comedy’s a man's world? You must be stuck in the 1980s, says Holly Williams
    Wilko Johnson: 'You have to live for the minute you're in'

    Wilko Johnson: 'You have to live for the minute you're in'

    The Dr Feelgood guitarist talks frankly about his terminal illness
    Lure of the jingle: Entrepreneurs are giving vintage ice-cream vans a new lease of life

    Lure of the jingle

    Entrepreneurs are giving vintage ice-cream vans a new lease of life
    Who stole the people's own culture?

    DJ Taylor: Who stole the people's own culture?

    True popular art drives up from the streets, but the commercial world wastes no time in cashing in
    Guest List: The IoS Literary Editor suggests some books for your summer holiday

    Guest List: IoS Literary Editor suggests some books for your summer holiday

    Before you stuff your luggage with this year's Man Booker longlist titles, the case for some varied poolside reading alternatives
    What if Edward Snowden had stayed to fight his corner?

    Rupert Cornwell: What if Edward Snowden had stayed to fight his corner?

    The CIA whistleblower struck a blow for us all, but his 1970s predecessor showed how to win
    'A man walks into a bar': Comedian Seann Walsh on the dangers of mixing alcohol and stand-up

    Comedian Seann Walsh on alcohol and stand-up

    Comedy and booze go together, says Walsh. The trouble is stopping at just the one. So when do the hangovers stop being funny?
    From Edinburgh to Hollywood (via the Home Counties): 10 comedic talents blowing up big

    Edinburgh to Hollywood: 10 comedic talents blowing up big

    Hugh Montgomery profiles the faces to watch, from the sitcom star to the surrealist
    'Hello. I have cancer': When comedian Tig Notaro discovered she had a tumour she decided the show must go on

    Comedian Tig Notaro: 'Hello. I have cancer'

    When Notaro discovered she had a tumour she decided the show must go on
    They think it's all ova: Bill Granger's Asia-influenced egg recipes

    Bill Granger's Asia-influenced egg recipes

    Our chef made his name cooking eggs, but he’s never stopped looking for new ways to serve them
    The world wakes up to golf's female big hitters

    The world wakes up to golf's female big hitters

    With its own Tiger Woods - South Korea's Inbee Park - the women's game has a growing audience
    10 athletes ready to take the world by storm in Moscow next week

    10 athletes ready to take the world by storm in Moscow next week

    Here are the potential stars of the World Championships which begin on Saturday
    The Last Word: Luis Suarez and Gareth Bale's art of manipulation

    The Last Word: Luis Suarez and Gareth Bale's art of manipulation

    Briefings are off the record leading to transfer speculation which is merely a means to an end