Stay The Night: Nantucket island resorts, USA

Autumn is the moment for a road trip along the east coast of the US. Take the boat to Nantucket along the way, says Kate Simon

Watch your step in Nantucket Town. I didn't and was dealt a bloody nose courtesy of a loose brick on the old cobbled path along Easton Street. Either that or I'd enjoyed the generous hospitality at dinner a little too much. I'd dined at the Brant Point Grill, an upmarket steak and lobster eaterie run by my hosts, Nantucket Island Resorts, the owners of four hotels, two restaurants, two spas and a marina on this outpost off the Massachusetts coast – a positive empire on an island just 3.5 miles wide and 14 miles long.

I retired to nurse my wounds at my home for the night, Orion, one of The Cottages & Lofts at the Boat Basin, the company's collection of cute little shingled houses and lofts that line the wharfs of this harbour, where slain whales were once landed. The views of the waterfront are quite benign today, nothing more dramatic than a beautiful sunset is likely to disturb your clambake on the terrace.

Next day, I crossed to the north-east coast – hardly an arduous journey – to The Wauwinet, an elegant shoreside mansion topped with the signature grey shingle roof required by law to sit atop houses here. This feted hotel delivers a refined take on east-coast life, where guests can enjoy a bracing walk along the beach, then cosy up among the florals and plaids in this luxurious country retreat. Definitely one for the romantics.



The rooms

The Cottages & Lofts feature 24 cottages and five lofts, from studios to three-bedroom dwellings. The styling is seaside barefoot luxury, expressed through pine flooring and nautical colours. They're an immensely good-value choice for families, offering plenty of space and fully equipped kitchens. And you're not quite cut adrift – housekeeping is provided and there's even a shuttle bus to beaches where towels and chairs are laid on.

The Wauwinet is a calm, intimate hotel of 32 guest rooms and cottages, with the most charming communal spaces, from the cosy drawing room to the outdoor terrace. My only grumble, the thunderous noise made by the heater in my room: inexcusable in a hotel of this standard.



The food and drink

As well as the Brant Point Grill, set in the White Elephant Hotel, Nantucket Island Resorts offers fine dining at Topper's at The Wauwinet. Otherwise, stop off for clam chowder at the Club Car in Nantucket Town, a diner set in an old Pullman Coach which once served the island's now obsolete railroad. Self-caterers can stock up on essentials at the grocery and buy fruits of the ocean at the Straight Wharf Fish Store.



The extras

To properly understand Nantucket, you need to visit the Whaling Museum (nha.org), a well-presented space which features the 46ft skeleton of a sperm whale and charts the history of this remote community and the bloody business of hunting whales. In contrast, the African-American Meeting House, dating from the 1820s and now owned by the Museum of African-American History in Boston, is a landmark that deserves more tender loving care (there's a self-guided walking tour that plots sites on the island linked to local black heritage). Other historic sites include the 17th-century Old Mill, America's oldest operating windmill, and Brant Point and Great Point Lighthouses. The island is a National Historic District and it has a swathe of protected wilderness at its heart. Explore by bike and then retire to the spa at the White Elephant Hotel or The Wauwinet.



The access

The Woof Cottages at The Cottages & Lofts are pet friendly, and part of the fee you pay for your pet to stay is donated to an animal charity.



The bill

A night at The Cottages & Lofts at The Boat Basin costs from £140 for room only. One night's B&B at the Wauwinet costs from £140. British Airways (0844 493 0758; ba.com/ boston) offers a seven-night fly-drive through Boston from £419, including return flights and car hire.



The address

As well as The Cottages & Lofts and The Wauwinet, Nantucket Island Resorts features other accommodation at the White Elephant Hotel and Residences, and the Jared Coffin House. For information go to nantucketislandresorts.com.

Property
pets
Arts and Entertainment
The Ridiculous Six has been produced by Adam Sandler, who also stars in it
filmNew controversy after nine Native American actors walked off set
Life and Style
The original ZX Spectrum was simple to plug into your TV and get playing on
techThirty years on, the ZX Spectrum is back, after a fashion
Sport
football
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Recruitment Genius: Technical Supervisor

    £24800 - £29000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: As one of London's leading Muse...

    Recruitment Genius: Centre Manager

    £14000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Guru Careers: Accountant

    £28 - 45k (DOE): Guru Careers: An Accountant is needed to take control of the ...

    Recruitment Genius: Hotel Assistant Manager

    £18000 - £20000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This hotel in Chadderton is a p...

    Day In a Page

    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power
    Rare and exclusive video shows the horrific price paid by activists for challenging the rule of jihadist extremists in Syria

    The price to be paid for challenging the rule of extremists

    A revolution now 'consuming its own children'
    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    300 players take part in Watch the Skies! board game in London
    'Nymphomaniac' actress reveals what it was really like to star in one of the most explicit films ever

    Charlotte Gainsbourg on 'Nymphomaniac'

    Starring in one of the most explicit films ever
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers

    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi

    The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers
    Vince Cable interview: Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'

    Vince Cable exclusive interview

    Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'
    Iwan Rheon interview: Game of Thrones star returns to his Welsh roots to record debut album

    Iwan Rheon is returning to his Welsh roots

    Rheon is best known for his role as the Bastard of Bolton. It's gruelling playing a sadistic torturer, he tells Craig McLean, but it hasn't stopped him recording an album of Welsh psychedelia
    Russell Brand's interview with Ed Miliband has got everyone talking about The Trews

    Everyone is talking about The Trews

    Russell Brand's 'true news' videos attract millions of viewers. But today's 'Milibrand' interview introduced his resolutely amateurish style to a whole new crowd
    Morne Hardenberg interview: Cameraman for BBC's upcoming show Shark on filming the ocean's most dangerous predator

    It's time for my close-up

    Meet the man who films great whites for a living
    Increasing numbers of homeless people in America keep their mobile phones on the streets

    Homeless people keep mobile phones

    A homeless person with a smartphone is a common sight in the US. And that's creating a network where the 'hobo' community can share information - and fight stigma - like never before
    'Queer saint' Peter Watson left his mark on British culture by bankrolling artworld giants

    'Queer saint' who bankrolled artworld giants

    British culture owes a huge debt to Peter Watson, says Michael Prodger
    Pushkin Prizes: Unusual exchange programme aims to bring countries together through culture

    Pushkin Prizes brings countries together

    Ten Scottish schoolchildren and their Russian peers attended a creative writing workshop in the Highlands this week
    14 best kids' hoodies

    14 best kids' hoodies

    Don't get caught out by that wind on the beach. Zip them up in a lightweight top to see them through summer to autumn
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The acceptable face of the Emirates

    The acceptable face of the Emirates

    Has Abu Dhabi found a way to blend petrodollars with principles, asks Robert Fisk