Boutiques, carnivals and sherry by the gallon

While Seville is the jewel in the Andalusian crown, there are plenty of other gems - besides Cordoba, Granada and Ronda - which can go unnoticed by visitors. Among these are jaunty Jerez, with its classy boutiques, gipsy quarters and sherry by the gallon; and crumbling Cdiz, with its medieval watchtowers, wild carnivals and wicked sense of humour.

Jerez

Surrounded by vines, Jerez de la Frontera is the heartland of sherry (itself a corruption of "Xerez", the town's Moorish name). The fancy shops, grand boulevards, well-heeled residents, beautiful churches and stately mansions which crowd the old town make it the most obvious place to begin sightseeing. In the heart of the medieval quarter lies the substantial alczar (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm and 4pm-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm; free), a 12th-century Almohad fortress, which has been sensitively restored to its original state.

Nearby lies the mainly 18th-century Cathedral of San Salvador (daily 5.30am-8pm), a curious mix of Gothic, baroque and neo-classical features. Don't miss the free-standing bell tower, which was part of a 15th-century mudejar-style castle.

Northwest of the cathedral is the Barrio de Santiago, the old gitano (gipsy) quarter. This maze of narrow medieval lanes and alleys is a great place to wander around, admiring the beautiful churches as you become hopelessly lost. A tour of one of the sherry bodegas can be a fascinating insight into the mysteries of sherry production. Gonzlez Byass on c/Manuel Gonzlez offers English-language tours (Monday and Saturday, from Pts375). Book in advance by calling 956 340 000.

Cdiz

This used to be the gateway to the Americas and one of Spain's richest cities. Today, decaying 18th-century walls, grand open squares, sailors' alleyways and turreted houses, give Cadiz an air of delapidated grandeur. The city is most interesting for its ambience and engagingarchitecture - elegant mirador facades and ancient back streets surrounded by fortified walls.

Looking down upon the city is the Torre Tavira (daily Jun-Aug 10am-8.30pm; Sept-May 10am-6pm; 400pts), the highest and most important of the old watchtowers which offers panoramic views over Cdiz. A couple of blocks southeast of the Torre Tavira is the Plaza de Topete. Here stalls of colourful flowers and caged birds adjoin the large covered central market.

The Oratorio de San Felipe Neri (open daily 8.30am-10am and 7.30pm-10pm) on c/Santa Ines is acknowledged as one of Cdiz's finest baroque churches due to its unusual ovular shape. The city's yellow-domed cathedral (open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm) was started in 1716, but by the time it was finished in 1838, neo-classical elements had been added to its pure baroque design. The stone interior is attractively lit from the top of the dome.

Stuffed between c/Campo del Sur and the Playa de la Caleta lies the Barrio de la Vina. This old fishermen's quarter is renowned for the spirited and sarcastic humour of its inhabitants.