Best for island hopping: Paxos

From high-level trekking in Morocco's Atlas Mountains to rubbing shoulders with A-listers on Hollywood Boulevard, and from rural retreats off Tuscany's beaten track to jet-set hang outs for Moscow's super-rich, our writers have been to the ends of the earth to find a world of inspiration

The one piece of baggage you really don't want to take on holiday is your partner's mid-life crisis. When I told Harry that I'd found the perfect destination for a family holiday he immediately rejected the Greek island on the grounds that he'd been there before with an old girlfriend. Gently, I talked him round, and a mere two weeks later we were making the ferry crossing from Corfu to Paxos, where a hire car, a house with a pool, and a legion of romantic ghosts awaited.

"I don't remember this harbour," was Harry's first reaction, as our hydrofoil docked under the gaze of some curious goats. Nor, as became obvious over the following week, did he remember much about Paxos at all; those files had apparently been completely overwritten in the 30 years since his first visit. So instead of wrestling with poignant memories, Harry was free to experience the place afresh as the exhausted, middle-aged father of two young children. This would be our first foreign holiday as a family of four, and our requirements were simple – guaranteed sunshine (in May), a non-touristy atmosphere, some decent beaches, and a house with a pool. Paxos promised to meet them all.

Lying to the west of mainland Greece, in the Ionian Sea, the island has no airport, so has avoided the kind of mass tourism that has blighted neighbouring Corfu. No nightlife, no high-rise developments and no resorts: perfect for a back-to-basics family holiday.

The old-fashioned charm of Paxos was immediately apparent when we found our rental car had been left at the harbour with keys in the ignition, ready for us to drive away. 'They're not big on paperwork here," as our rep, Sam, explained. Our villa, a recently and tastefully modernised farmhouse, was in the centre of the island, near Magazia, a 20-minute drive away. Standing among olive groves, it had ocean views from its pool-side terrace, and a walk-cum-scramble down an overgrown track took us to the edge of the epic Erimitis cliffs.

It's very relaxing, being on holiday somewhere there isn't much to do. Our beach of choice was Mongonissi, a small, sandy strip that offered shade and a couple of good tavernas. Among the many facts about Paxos that Harry had forgotten is that the island's beaches aren't sandy (Mongonissi is man-made). They're mainly composed of flat, white stones, which look stunning, and give the ocean that azure clarity you normally only see in brochures, but can be hard going for small feet.

The fantasy Greek island beach – of virgin white sand stretching down to aquamarine water – did lie within reach, however; on the tiny island of Anti Paxos, a short boat trip away. Screwing up our courage, we rented a motor-boat in Loggos. We moored at a jetty at the first beach we came to, Vrika. Here was the dream – the white sand beach, the turquoise water so clear you could practically snorkel without a mask, and the Taverna Vrika, where we feasted on barbecued rockfish.

The Greek way of life is only child-friendly if you don't adopt a rigid, Gina Ford-style approach to scheduling. In Gaios, the main town, whose harbour-side square is lined with cafés and tavernas, we pitched up expectantly for supper at 6.30. Then we realised that the group sipping coffee at the next table were only just finishing lunch. By 8pm, with the children drooping, we were still the only people in town who seemed to be eating, though the first families had started to emerge for a pre-dinner stroll.

It was at a taverna in Gaios, eating lamb kebabs and feta salad for the fifth meal in succession, that Harry had his first flashback to his earlier visit. "Oh God – I think this is where I asked for a Turkish coffee!" he groaned. He spent the rest of the meal with his head in his hands. Some memories are just too painful to revisit.

Villa Kastanida is available for hire through Sunisle (sunisle.co.uk; 08000 911 601)

Island dreams

* Stay at Marlin Lodge on Benguerua Island, off the coast of Mozambique. Posh chalets set on pristine sands come with linen sheets and private patios overlooking a coral reef ripe for diving. Doubles from £335 per night, all-inclusive. 0131-661 6000; marlinlodge.co.za

* Seven century-old cottages have been given a sleek makeover at Capofaro Malvasia, a volcanic island retreat on Salina, 40km off the Sicilian coast. The estate's wines are among Sicily's best. Double rooms start at £175, including breakfast. 00 39 090 984 4330; capofaro.it

* The "Jurassic Park" of the Caribbean, Dominica (not to be confused with the Dominican Republic) has little development. It does have a towering volcanic interior thick with rainforest, home to parrots and orchids. Trips Worldwide (0117-311 4400; tripsworldwide.co.uk). Six nights from £1,665 pp

* A raft of new tours on offer from the Arctic specialist Discover the World this year include Iceland Through The Lens: a unique Northern Lights trip, led by the legendary wilderness photographer Ragnar TH Sigurdsson. Four nights from £1,195 pp. 01737 218800; discover-the-world.co.uk

Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Recruitment Genius: Transportation Contracting Manager

    £33000 - £38000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A global player and world leade...

    Recruitment Genius: Hotel and Spa Duty Manager

    £18000 - £24000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: If you are friendly, sociable, ...

    Recruitment Genius: Payroll and Benefits Co-ordinator

    £22300 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This museum group is looking for a Payro...

    ICE ICT: Lead Business Consultant

    £39,000: ICE ICT: Specific and detailed knowledge and experience of travel sys...

    Day In a Page

    Seifeddine Rezgui: What motivated a shy student to kill 38 holidaymakers in Tunisia?

    Making of a killer

    What motivated a shy student to kill 38 holidaymakers in Tunisia?
    UK Heatwave: Temperatures on the tube are going to exceed the legal limit for transporting cattle

    Just when you thought your commute couldn't get any worse...

    Heatwave will see temperatures on the Tube exceed legal limit for transporting cattle
    Exclusive - The Real Stories of Migrant Britain: Swapping Bucharest for London

    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain

    Meet the man who swapped Romania for the UK in a bid to provide for his family, only to discover that the home he left behind wasn't quite what it seemed
    Cheaper energy on the way, but it's not all sunshine and rainbows

    Cheaper energy on the way, but it's not all sunshine and rainbows

    Solar power will help bring down electricity prices over the next five years, according to a new report. But it’s cheap imports of ‘dirty power’ that will lower them the most
    Katy Perry prevented from buying California convent for $14.5m after nuns sell to local businesswoman instead

    No grace of God for Katy Perry as sisters act to stop her buying convent

    Archdiocese sues nuns who turned down star’s $14.5m because they don’t approve of her
    Ajmer: The ancient Indian metropolis chosen to be a 'smart city' where residents would just be happy to have power and running water

    Residents just want water and power in a city chosen to be a ‘smart’ metropolis

    The Indian Government has launched an ambitious plan to transform 100 of its crumbling cities
    Michael Fassbender in 'Macbeth': The Scottish play on film, from Welles to Cheggers

    Something wicked?

    Films of Macbeth don’t always end well - just ask Orson Welles... and Keith Chegwin
    10 best sun creams for body

    10 best sun creams for body

    Make sure you’re protected from head to toe in the heatwave
    Wimbledon 2015: Nick Bollettieri - Milos Raonic has ability to get to the top but he must learn to handle pressure in big games

    Nick Bollettieri's Wimbledon files

    Milos Raonic has ability to get to the top but he must learn to handle pressure in big games
    Women's World Cup 2015: How England's semi-final success could do wonders for both sexes

    There is more than a shiny trophy to be won by England’s World Cup women

    The success of the decidedly non-famous females wearing the Three Lions could do wonders for a ‘man’s game’ riddled with cynicism and greed
    How to stop an asteroid hitting Earth: Would people co-operate to face down a global peril?

    How to stop an asteroid hitting Earth

    Would people cooperate to face a global peril?
    Just one day to find €1.6bn: Greece edges nearer euro exit

    One day to find €1.6bn

    Greece is edging inexorably towards an exit from the euro
    New 'Iron Man' augmented reality technology could help surgeons and firefighters, say scientists

    'Iron Man' augmented reality technology could become reality

    Holographic projections would provide extra information on objects in a person's visual field in real time
    Sugary drinks 'are killing 184,000 adults around the world every year'

    Sugary drinks are killing 184,000 adults around the world every year

    The drinks that should be eliminated from people's diets
    Pride of Place: Historians map out untold LGBT histories of locations throughout UK

    Historians map out untold LGBT histories

    Public are being asked to help improve the map