Break on the border

Norway celebrates 100 years of independence from Sweden next year. Siobhan Mulholland takes a family holiday along the old battle lines

Summer 2005 is a key date in Norway: 100 years of independence from Sweden, and before that, Denmark. There will be a fair few celebrations to mark the occasion - the Norwegians are proud of their independence, which was a long time in coming. One significant event timed to coincide with the centenary is the opening of the new Svinesund Bridge connecting the main motorway, the E6, between Sweden and Norway. It will be a powerful four-lane construction arching 60 metres above the Iddefjord. A bridge and motorway this size are much needed: on hot summer afternoons all you see are mile upon mile of Norwegian cars queuing to cross the border and take advantage of Sweden's cheaper prices. But Norwegians do not merely pillage shops; they come in their droves to holiday on Sweden's beautiful Bohuslan coast.

Summer 2005 is a key date in Norway: 100 years of independence from Sweden, and before that, Denmark. There will be a fair few celebrations to mark the occasion - the Norwegians are proud of their independence, which was a long time in coming. One significant event timed to coincide with the centenary is the opening of the new Svinesund Bridge connecting the main motorway, the E6, between Sweden and Norway. It will be a powerful four-lane construction arching 60 metres above the Iddefjord. A bridge and motorway this size are much needed: on hot summer afternoons all you see are mile upon mile of Norwegian cars queuing to cross the border and take advantage of Sweden's cheaper prices. But Norwegians do not merely pillage shops; they come in their droves to holiday on Sweden's beautiful Bohuslan coast.

It was not so long ago that the invasion was the other way round. Three hundred years ago the Swedes were putting a great deal of effort into using the same bit of border to invade Norway. Strategically it was very important to gaining access to the capital, Oslo. Thus, this border territory is littered with Norwegian fortifications built to keep the neighbours out.

Standing high on a hill above the town of Halden, in a suitably imposing fashion, is the Fredriksten Fortress. Halden is an otherwise lacklustre wood- processing town just 2km from the Swedish border. But in the 17th century the Danish King Frederick III built this imposing fort to keep the Swedes out. It worked; despite besieging the place several times, the Swedes never managed to capture Fredriksten. They even lost a king in the process: Carl XII, who was shot while attacking the fort.

The Norwegians, for their part, had to put the place to the torch in order to keep their neighbours at bay. This act is commemorated in the Norwegian national anthem: "we chose to burn our nation, lest we let it fall". The site is fascinating, and the Municipal Museum in the old prison has an impressive collection of soldiers' uniforms, guns and rifles.

The best-preserved fortress in Scandinavia lies 35km from Halden in another quiet town - Fredrikstad. The Gambleyen ("old town") is a beautifully restored 17th-century fortress on the banks of the river Gomma. In its prime this fortress had the lot: embankments, moats, gates, a drawbridge and 200 cannons. Today, you can wander around the narrow cobbled streets and buildings that now house shops, art galleries and restaurants.

The fighting history of this border country is fascinating, but this was not the reason I was in the area this summer. My reasons were far more commonplace: tempted by a summerhouse near Fredrikstad, I took the family for two weeks by the sea. This is where the Oslofjord meets the Skagerrak, the expanse of sea that sits between Norway and Sweden. It has a stunning coastline and, not surprisingly, is prime summer holiday territory for these two countries. It is also the jumping-off point for Hvaler (literally "the skerries"), an archipelago of 833 forested islands and islets at the southern entrance to Oslofjord. The main islands are connected to the mainland by a road and tunnel.

For Norwegians, the Skagerrak lies mainly on their east coast - it's their Riviera, stretching from Mandal on the Southern tip of the country up to Tonsberg at the mouth of the Oslofjord. On the Swedish side is the Bohuslan Coast stretching from Gothenburg to the Norwegian border. What all this coastline gives you is mile upon mile of tiny rocky islands and skerries, hidden bays and coves, clear glistening fjords backed by lush green forests and lakes. This is where holidaymakers spend their time sailing, fishing, walking, and cycling - spending every moment they can in the much-longed-for sun.

A rock-slab shoreline dotted with historic towns and picturesque villages with clapboard houses and blonde children. It is - as you would expect in Scandinavia - all very clean and safe. There is little sand, but an abundance of suitable rocks for draping yourself over and diving off. The water is so clear and sparkling that if it were not saline, they would have bottled it by now.

Everyone takes to the water and appears to have some sort of craft to potter about in. A boat is the best way to appreciate the area. As you chug along in your boat, you can be safe in the knowledge that geologically, there are few nasty surprises around the next clump of rocks. There is a wonderful unspoilt uniformity to the Skagerrak's coastline. Rarely is the view marred by a high-rise. The selling of land, and the construction of anything but the uniform Scandinavian summer house, is strictly controlled. This is not a holiday spot bursting with hotels. Most people stay in property belonging to family, friends or friends of friends. The few houses and self-catering apartments available for holiday lets are not cheap. Added to the unpredictable weather, you can understand why visitors may hesitate to book summer holidays here. But it is well worth taking a chance because if the rain sets in, there are plenty of sights to see.

The Norwegian Riviera has its historic coastal towns: Risor, Tvedestrand, Arendal, Grimstad and Lillesand. These are well-preserved former timber ports and shipbuilding centres characterised by their narrow streets, white buildings, picket fences and rose gardens.

We took the ferry to another part of this coastline, the island of Hanko. It's where the Norwegian Royal Family has a summer house and where a herd of red deer has lived for more than a century. We saw neither species during our short visit but did enjoy the location: clear clean sea, secluded rocks to bathe on, no cars, elegant summer houses - all very tasteful.

On the Swedish side, the Bohuslan coast has the same small fjords and barren archipelagos, but there are more small fishing villages with cottages clustered around harbour sides. There are also more hotels: small family-owned affairs full of local charm. And the seafood and restaurants are cheaper on this side of the Skagerrak. To make your journey even easier, the border between Norway and Sweden is now astonishingly easy to cross. You don't need to flash as much as a passport - just cross a bridge and a minute later you're in another country. How the Vikings have mellowed.

TRAVELLER'S GUIDE

GETTING THERE

Fly to one of four airports: Oslo's Gardamoen airport, 50km north of the capital, with frequent flights from many UK airports; Torp, 120km southwest of Oslo, with a frequent ferry across the Oslofjord; or Sweden's two airports for Gothenburg: Landvetter, the main gateway, and Save, for low-cost flights.

TOURIST INFORMATION

For Norway: 020-7389 8800; www.visitnorway.com. For Sweden: 020-7724 5868; www.visit-sweden.com