City Breaks: Forget the new Cold War, we're all off to Russia

Relations may be frosty, but British tourist numbers are booming, says Mark Rowe

Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
News in pictures
News in pictures
On Facebook

The black gold flowing from Russia's oilfields has led to an influx of newly wealthy Russians exploring London's property options. But the travel is not all one way. Russia's re-emergence as a superpower has led to the biggest increase in tourism to the country since the Gorbachev era of perestroika in the 1980s.

In the past few months the number of flight options to Russia has dramatically increased, and this has coincided with a significant relaxation in the state's visa regulations. As a result, tourists can now more easily visit some of Russia's provincial cities. Regent Holidays, which has been operating to Russia and the former Soviet Union since 1980, has noticed the shift in interest, with bookings increasing by 300 per cent since the 1980s.

"Back in the 1980s China was our top destination, but for the 2000s Russia has dominated," says Alison White, the company's tours and marketing executive. "Russia remains popular, regardless of political differences both within Russia and between Russia and the UK, though the nature of the kind of traveller has changed significantly, with individual and tailor-made travel the most popular choices."

A major catalyst was the launch, in June 2007, of the Russian airline KD Avia, based in the Russian province of Kaliningrad Oblast on the Baltic Sea. This summer KD Avia will operate daily services from Gatwick to its base in Kaliningrad, formerly Konigsberg until 1946. The airline has connections to Moscow and St Petersburg, along with several provincial Russian cities, including Chelyabinsk, Ufa, Nizhny Novgorod, Omsk, Rostov, Samara, Perm, Kazan and Volgograd.

The airline predicts that its traffic will grow to between 1.5 million and two million people per year and is banking on attracting passengers exasperated by negative experiences of Moscow's Sheremetyevo airport. Meanwhile, BMI will double the number of flights it operates to Moscow to 14 a week at the end of March.

Since October the airline has also operated a route to Ekaterinburg, the scene of the execution of Tsar Nicholas II and his family in 1918. Ekaterinburg is in the middle of the Urals, one of the geographical borders between Europe and Asia. Apart from a notoriety associated with the Tsar's execution, it has a striking cathedral and several museums.

However, Neil Taylor, a veteran tour operator to Russia and author of a number of books on the former Soviet Union, feels that a number of barriers need to be dismantled before mass tourism to the Russian provinces takes off. "These places are intrinsically interesting but they require a lot of work to visit for the typical traveller," he said. "A thousand pounds can get you a holiday in the US, Thailand or Australia, places where operators and the countries do a lot of promotion. Russia does no promotion whatsoever.

"There's no concession to tourism. A visitor to Kaliningrad or other cities has to accept the motto of 'take us as we are'. Tourism boomed in the late 1980s because we all adored Gorbachev, but today the political coverage of Russia is quite hostile. If you do not speak a smattering of Russian, or can't at least read Cyrillic, you will soon be lost – even if you go slightly off the beaten track in St Petersburg. You can get around South America without speaking Spanish but the same principle doesn't apply in Russia."

For travellers still determined to visit Russia, Mr Taylor suggests they start with the city of Kaliningrad. "Visas can be bought on arrival at the airport, and the place provides a glimpse of Russia and what other provincial towns would offer," he said. "You can get international food there and wander into cafés and restaurants – things that were just difficult or inappropriate to do during Soviet days."

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Career Services

Day In a Page

Picture preview: Portrait of London

Portrait of London

Picture preview
No secularism please, we're British

No secularism please, we're British

Arguments about the role of religion in national life have recently acquired a new urgency
Harold Tillman: 'Chinese tourists can save the high street – if we let them'

Harold Tillman interview

'Chinese tourists can save the high street – if we let them'
Working as a jail torturer ruined my life

Working as a jail torturer ruined my life

Meet the former soldier who has joined the political prisoners he tortured in Turkey's Mamak prison by suing the generals who led a regime of terror
The local high street jet shop

The local high street jet shop

Got a spare $50m and can't stand the queues at Heathrow? Get yourself down to London's first private plane dealership
Do you like your doctor? It could be the death of you

Do you like your doctor?

It could be the death of you...
The mysterious affair of how Agatha Christie is teaching foreigners English

How Agatha Christie is teaching foreigners English

Twenty of the author's novels have been adapted and presented with learning notes and a CD
Six Grammys, five years off: Adele puts love before career

Six Grammys, five years off

Adele puts love before career
The 10 Best binoculars

The 10 Best binoculars

From no-frills to bins with digital cameras
Milan for £300

Milan for £300?

A cultural family holiday - on a budget - to Italy's most stylish city
'Black-hole' resorts: Turn up, tune out, log off

'Black-hole' resorts

Turn up, tune out, log off
New Arsenal face an old question of credibility in San Siro

New Arsenal face an old question of credibility in San Siro

Remodelled since winning in Milan in 2008, for all their consistency – and prize-money – Wenger's side are yet to claim a European title
James Lawton: This prodigal son deserves no forgiveness

James Lawton: This prodigal son deserves no forgiveness

City would be putting their desire to win title ahead of morals if Tevez plays for them
Mark Cavendish: Is Olympic gold at end of the rainbow?

Mark Cavendish interview

Is Olympic gold at end of the rainbow?
Apple admits it has a human rights problem

Apple admits it has a human rights problem

After years of complaints and workers' suicides in China the technology giant faces up to the human cost of its gadgets