One hour from Nice

The road to Grasse? Follow your nose

You'll find the scent of lemons and the odd movie star on the Côte d'Azur.

Grasse

This medieval hilltop town is the perfume capital of the world, thanks to the unique microclimate that ensures flowers grow all year round. Some perfume factories are open to the public. For a great set lunch in an old olive grove, head for the Michelin-starred Bastide St-Antoine.

By car: take the A8 west, then the N85; journey time approx 45 mins. By bus: from the Gare Routière; journey time approx one hour.

Menton

The lemon-scented city used to be a winter retreat for Queen Victoria. You'll find plenty of rundown Belle Epoque villas, as well as botanical gardens packed with tropical palms. Don't miss the fascinating Musée des Beaux-Arts.

By car: take the A8 east, turning off at exit 59; journey time approx 30 mins. By train: frequent service from Gare Nice-Ville; journey time approx 20 mins.

The Roya-Bévéra Valleys

The craggy peaks of the Alpes-Maritime are home to sleepy Italianate towns. (This region became French only in 1947.)Mountain biking, trekking and kayaking are all on offer.

By car: take the A8 east, then the D2566; journey time approx 55 mins. By train: five trains daily from Gare Nice-Ville; journey time 50 mins.

Antibes/Juan-le-Pins

After exploring the labyrinth of medieval lanes in the walled old town of Antibes, while away an afternoon discovering sandy beaches and rocky coves. Celeb spotters head for the exclusive Hotel du Cap Eden-Roc, where stars such as Tom Cruise hole up during the Cannes film festival.

By car: take the A8 west, turning off at exit 44; journey time approx 30 mins. By train: frequent service from Gare Nice-Ville; journey time approx 20 mins.

Iles de Lérins

Set in the Bay of Cannes, the Ile Sainte-Marguerite and Ile Saint-Honorat are peaceful and pine-forested, in contrast to the craziness of Cannes itself. Saint-Honorat is home to a Cistercian monastery; and the Man in the Iron Mask was incarcerated in Sainte-Marguerite's Fort Royal.

By car: take the A8 west to Cannes, then a short ferry ride from the Gare Maritime; journey time approx one hour. By train: frequent service to Cannes, then ferry; journey time approx 50 mins.

Isola 2000

Close to the Italian border, the purpose-built Isola 2000 ski resort offers runs to suit all abilities and has about 160 snow cannons to ensure there's no lack of snow.

By car: take the N202, then the D2205; journey time approx one hour plus. By bus: daily service from Gare Routière; journey time approx one hour plus.

Ian McCurrach

Kirker Holidays (020-7231 3333; www.kirkerholidays.com) offers two nights' b&b in Nice at the three-star Mercure Grimaldi, from £312 per person, including return flights and city guide.