The Hedonist: A hazy night out in Prague

What to see and where to be seen

Amid the modern stylings of Prague's 987 Hotel (00 420 255 737 2004; 987hotels.com) at 987 Senovazne Namesti, I guzzle coffee while striving to regain a normal thought process.

My first notion is to glance around this luxurious designer stowaway – situated a few hundred yards from Prague's historic centre – and ponder how many Italians travel here. Then, it hits me. My high-cost, high-bill, nth-generation smartphone is gone. I barely saw the room, so it's definitely not there. I've got almost a full day before my flight back to reality and the dreaded confession to the boss that the scoop on our next deal is in the hands of mobsters. Or that could just be the hangover talking.

Quickly, I retrace my steps. On arrival, I had the compulsory beer and sausage at a stand on Wenceslas Square, but I didn't touch my phone. Slinking around the corner via Stepanska street, I got a few Czech craft beers at expat-classic Jama the Hollow (00 420 224 222 383; jamapub.cz) at 7 Jama. Whether my eyes were wet and clouded by nostalgia for those post-Velvet Revolution days, or the ubiquitous cigarette smoke, I didn't look at my phone there either. I did pick up a like-minded Czech, though, who insisted on taking me to some of the city's best cures for, shall we say, writer's block.

We emerged from the tourist scrum at Old Town Square, an unmissable sight and probably the most complete old town area in Europe. We weren't hungry for the roast meat or trdelnik (sweet pastries) sold at the square's market – a virtual year-round experience despite associations with Christmas – so my partner-in-crime whisked me from the overpriced bars on the square to the Tolkienian literary café Tynska Literarni Kavarna (00 420 224 827 807; knihy tynska.cz) nearby at 6 Tynska. Here, we drank as many fresh Bernards as the waitress could pencil on to our bill and enjoyed the secluded stone courtyard. It's the type of place where even holding a fancy phone would prompt an existential argument ... and so I didn't.

We glided up the hill to Prague Castle on one of the historic trams, then took a cobbled lane to Terasa U Zlate Studne (00 420 257 533 322; terasauzlatestudne.cz) at 166/4 U Zlate studne, a sumptuous dining experience once booked for Barack Obama, although the President did not have time to go. I know I called a cab from there, so that's not where the phone went missing.

We repaired to the Prague Beer Museum Pub (00 420 732 330 912; praguebeermuseum.com) at 46 Dlouha, a boozy hangout delightfully unencumbered by a museum of any kind. It just sells beer from a 41-page menu.

I return here and look under every table before I remember how, after sampling almost every beer on offer, we landed at the Art Deco hangout Café Slavia (00 420 224 218 493; cafeslavia.cz) at 1 Smetanovo nabrezi, where artists and writers have got out of their minds since the 1880s.

There, underneath Viktor Oliva's characteristic painting The Absinthe Drinker, I found my phone. A swift dial later, and I'm on the plane back with a lingering headache and the curious desire to do it all over again.

A Hedonist's Guide to ... (Hg2) is a luxury city guide series for the more decadent traveller. For more information, go to hg2.com

Voices
Lucerne’s Hotel Château Gütsch, one of the lots in our Homeless Veterans appeal charity auction
charity appeal
Sport
Raheem Sterling of Liverpool celebrates scoring the opening goal
footballLIVE: Follow all the latest from tonight's Capital One quarter-finals
Life and Style
A woman walks by a pandal art installation entitled 'Mars Mission' with the figure of an astronaut during the Durga Puja festival in Calcutta, India
techHow we’ll investigate the existence of, and maybe move in with, our alien neighbours
Arts and Entertainment
Tony Hughes (James Nesbitt) after his son Olly disappeared on a family holiday in France
tv
PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
News
people

Jo from Northern Ireland was less than impressed by Russell Brand's attempt to stage a publicity stunt

Arts and Entertainment
Sir Ian McKellen tempts the Cookie Monster
tvSir Ian McKellen joins the Cookie Monster for a lesson on temptation
Arts and Entertainment
Jim Carrey and Jeff Daniels ride again in Dumb and Dumber To
filmReview: Dumb And Dumber To was a really stupid idea
News
i100
Life and Style
tech
Life and Style
Sebastian Siemiatkowski is the 33-year-old co-founder and CEO of Klarna, which provides a simple way for people to buy things online
tech
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Voices
Jimmy Mubenga died after being restrained on an aircraft by G4S escorts
voicesJonathan Cox: Tragedy of Jimmy Mubenga highlights lack of dignity shown to migrants
News
Not quite what they were expecting
news

When teaching the meaning of Christmas backfires

News
i100
Arts and Entertainment
Angelina Jolie and Sony Pictures co-chairman Amy Pascal at the Golden Globes in 2011
film
Extras
indybest
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Ashdown Group: Data Manager - £Market Rate

    Negotiable: Ashdown Group: Data Manager - MySQL, Shell Scripts, Java, VB Scrip...

    Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - Bedfordshire/Cambs border - £32k

    £27000 - £32000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Application Support Analyst - near S...

    Recruitment Genius: Class 1 HGV Driver

    £23000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This successful group of compan...

    Recruitment Genius: HGV Class 2 Lorry Driver / CPC and HIAB Training Provider

    £29000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A HGV Class 2 Lorry Driver is required t...

    Day In a Page

    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton: The power dynamics of the two first families

    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton

    Karen Tumulty explores the power dynamics of the two first families
    Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley with a hotbed of technology start-ups

    Scandi crush: Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley

    Th Swedish capital is home to two of the most popular video games in the world, as well as thousands of technology start-ups worth hundreds of millions of pounds – and it's all happened since 2009
    La Famille Bélier is being touted as this year's Amelie - so why are many in the deaf community outraged by it?

    Deaf community outraged by La Famille Bélier

    The new film tells the story of a deaf-mute farming family and is being touted as this year's Amelie
    Calls for a military mental health 'quality mark'

    Homeless Veterans campaign

    Expert calls for military mental health 'quality mark'
    Racton Man: Analysis shows famous skeleton was a 6ft Bronze Age superman

    Meet Racton Man

    Analysis shows famous skeleton was a 6ft Bronze Age superman
    Garden Bridge: St Paul’s adds to £175m project’s troubled waters

    Garden Bridge

    St Paul’s adds to £175m project’s troubled waters
    Stuff your own Christmas mouse ornament: An evening class in taxidermy with a festive feel

    Stuff your own Christmas mouse ornament

    An evening class in taxidermy with a festive feel
    Joint Enterprise: The legal doctrine which critics say has caused hundreds of miscarriages of justice

    Joint Enterprise

    The legal doctrine which critics say has caused hundreds of miscarriages of justice
    Freud and Eros: Love, Lust and Longing at the Freud Museum: Objects of Desire

    Freud and Eros

    Love, Lust and Longing at the Freud Museum
    France's Front National and the fear of a ‘gay lobby’ around Marine Le Pen

    Front National fear of ‘gay lobby’

    Marine Le Pen appoints Sébastien Chenu as cultural adviser
    'Enhanced interrogation techniques?' When language is distorted to hide state crimes

    Robert Fisk on the CIA 'torture report'

    Once again language is distorted in order to hide US state wrongdoing
    Radio 1’s new chart host must placate the Swifties and Azaleans

    Radio 1 to mediate between the Swifties and Azaleans

    New chart host Clara Amfo must placate pop's fan armies
    Homeless Veterans appeal: 'It's life, and not the Forces, that gets you'

    Homeless Veterans appeal: 'It's life, and not the Forces, that gets you'

    The head of Veterans Aid on how his charity is changing perceptions of ex-servicemen and women in need
    Torture: It didn't work then, it doesn't work now

    Torture: It didn't work then, it doesn't work now

    Its use is always wrong and, despite CIA justifications post 9/11, the information obtained from it is invariably tainted, argues Patrick Cockburn
    Rebranding Christmas: More public bodies are refusing to give the festival its name for fear of causing offence

    Rebranding Christmas

    More public bodies are refusing to give the festival its name for fear of causing offence. They are missing the point, and we all need to grow up